parametric eq questions

bikejunkie223
10+ year member

Dls Wh0re
Hey everyone, I am thinking about buying a parametric Eq module for the sub channel on my amp, and was wondering what everyones opinion on them is. I am already using the 13 band EQ in the deck set up with an RTA, so I am not sure if it's even needed. The module has adjustable frequency, boost/cut, and Q. $130 new. All you SQ guys tell me what you think! Thanks.

 
Hey everyone, I am thinking about buying a parametric Eq module for the sub channel on my amp, and was wondering what everyones opinion on them is. I am already using the 13 band EQ in the deck set up with an RTA, so I am not sure if it's even needed. The module has adjustable frequency, boost/cut, and Q. $130 new. All you SQ guys tell me what you think! Thanks.
I havent ever been able to use one. You use it and give us a review. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
I havent ever been able to use one. You use it and give us a review. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif
Thanks, that was really helpful. Where's Squeak at? He always seems to know about this stuff.

 
The only answer to your question is; Do you need it?

If you are happy with the performance of your subwoofer/subbass presently, then it's not really necessary. If there is some frequency response anomolies you'd like to work out, or if the response isn't quite to your liking yet and you can not fix it with your present equipment, go for it.

 
Yeah, I'm prob. gonna have to try it. It's funny, when sitting statically everything is about perfect, but when driving, the 200hz tone of the exhaust/road noise seems to wash out a bunch of midbass, so I'm not sure if this will help comensate for that. I am running my sub up a bit higher, which helps w/ the problem. The other thing is @ a reasonable volume the midbass is a scooch lacking(18) but at a louder volume, it's just fine (23 or so) and gets better as volume increases, sadly if I listen at 23+ on my commute home (roughly 40 minutes) my ears are ringing when I get there. Further opinions?

 
i dont know why but i never even thought about figuring in constants like exhaust noise and maybe tire whistling in to try and cancel them out or minimise the effects caused by them... work with it and tell us how it goes

 
Yeah, I'm prob. gonna have to try it. It's funny, when sitting statically everything is about perfect, but when driving, the 200hz tone of the exhaust/road noise seems to wash out a bunch of midbass, so I'm not sure if this will help comensate for that. I am running my sub up a bit higher, which helps w/ the problem. The other thing is @ a reasonable volume the midbass is a scooch lacking(18) but at a louder volume, it's just fine (23 or so) and gets better as volume increases, sadly if I listen at 23+ on my commute home (roughly 40 minutes) my ears are ringing when I get there. Further opinions?
IMHO rather than try to EQ out the road noise a better option would be to try to kill it with a combination of mat deadener, liquid deadener and some open and/or closed cell foam.

 
I have deadened my doors quite substantially, and am debating pulling up the carpet and laying down mat over the tub, and anywhere else is possible, I just know with Hondas, all those plastic clips holding interior trim together....It can get ugly pretty easily. I tried the undercoat we have here at work, but it doesn't do anything (rubberized stuff from a spray gun) I'm gonna do an afternoon with an rta this weekend, and see what I can figure out. I also want to rip a track of pink noise onto my ipod and see with the rta exactly what is happening withthe compression of the track, and possibly there is a way to help counterract it with EQ settings, though I understand with actual music once detail is lost in compression, it's gone. I'll let you all know how it goes, if nothing else it's an interesting experiment I think. I also want to see what exactly BBE does to pink noise on the RTA since there are a few schools of thought as to what BBE does, and they all seem to contradict each other.

 
Think you have crazy standing waves in your car. Can you change it by opening the window or multiple windows? Either that or your muffler is tuned to one of the major resonant modes of the interior or body panels of your car. If it is the interior and truly 200Hz it would be 2.5 wavelength or multiples. If it is a body panel you will have to deaden it and add mass.

 
My frame of reference is that when you start the engine there is a large spike on the Rta at around 200hz, and I can notice the road noise overcoming the midbass when driving. I realize I am somewhat limited by my vehicle until I do some serious deadening of the cabin, but just wanted opinions of whether Eq-ing might help or not. I'm also wondering if EQ settings can help with the sound-quality desparity between cd and mp-3 off an ipod. It doesn't seem to be interior panels, or body panels, as the car is basically rattle free (I have one in my dash that comes and goes), the midbass just washes out at lower volumes sometimes. I have a feeling some major deadening is in my future....floor, rear quarters, possibly the roof above the headliner....wow, a lot of work.

 
Sounds like the design of your muffler and car body panels don't jive so well. What I meant by body panel modes was that at 200Hz I bet your roof or some other structure in your car is extremely active (acting like a big *** passive radiator) and causing issues. Those would be body modes. If it was standing waves in the interior cranking down a few windows should change them which is why I asked. From your description either you need to change your exhaust or really mass load the panels in your car to raise their resonant frequency.

 
From your description either you need to change your exhaust or really mass load the panels in your car to raise their resonant frequency.
Along with using some barrier loading materials to decrease the amplitude of such noises (exhaust, road, etc) in the interior. Mass loading the doors alone isn't really going to do much of anything for the issues you are dealing with.

And trying to EQ it out is a band-aid at best. What you'd end up likely doing boosting those frequencies and sending the amp into clipping, causing distortion and possible driver damage.

 
Hmmm That's a lot to chew on. The exhaust is stock on my car, but that doesn't mean it's not doing what you guys think it is. So what measures should I take in dampening materials to help? There is no noticeable difference w/ the windows down or up, just more wind noise with the window open (duh)

 
Unfortunately, that car is noisy. A friend of mine has one. The best you can do is get some good deadener (like second skin) and apply it everywhere //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

Wouldn't hurt to use carpet padding.

I know it's possible because my friend has a 2000 Integra Type R and you know that thing is stripped from the factory. It was LOUD stock. You can't really hear anything on the freeway. After it has been deadened everywhere and paddings have been added, the car is just as quiet as my sister's 2005 honda accord (minus engine noise, but can't really do much if the engine runs at 5000 RPM on the freeway)

 
You could create a 200Hz note cd and then play it in your car and an energizing volume and then step out of the car and feel the metal. The panels that "feel" the most active are probably your culprits. And as Squeak says, doing your doors won't help. 200Hz is most likely the roof, the pans, or some other large body panel. Again the best way to stop this is with a lot of deadening, but you do have to be lucky and find the right spots.

 
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bikejunkie223

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