Opinions are like a$$holes, everyone’s' got one, right? Budget LiFePO4 (not diy li-on cell banks, buss bars and regulators) Opinions?

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

A lot of discussion on electrical/voltage draw and remedy.
Let's say for the sake of this discussion, stock Alt. Big three upgrade done, wanna reinforce quick discharge for occasional BASS amp draw/performance.
Not long duration sustain or at the picnic sound reinforcement when the car is off/parked, just want to help the system performance when listening without the lights dimming or the amp going into protect mode.

This is not my situation or anyone else in particular, just in general.

L/A or AGM under the hood, isolator inline, parallel ground in place 2/0 OFC.

1500 to 2000 watt system.

Assuming the need for a 2nd battery to fulfill this goal has been established.

What is your go-to BUDGET under $300 LiFePO4 drop-in solution?

Click to read more...

 

[metalheadjoe 10+ year member]

I would add a capacitor for 1.5k-2.0kw. You can't do much electrically with $300.

 

[Popwarhomie 5,000+ posts]

What is your go-to BUDGET under $300 LiFePO4 drop-in solution?

There isn't one. You can build one for $300. But drop in. None.

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

I would add a capacitor for 1.5k-2.0kw. You can't do much electrically with $300.

Agreed, DIY only.

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

There isn't one. You can build one for $300. But drop in. None.

Agreed, DIY only.

 

[1aespinoza 10+ year member]

What is your go-to BUDGET under $300 LiFePO4 drop-in solution

Not a LiFePO4, but Pops mentioned a Maxwell graphene supercap a few weeks ago. The YT video made it sound very convincing. TBH, I am not stoked with my Ioxus supercap so I have been eyeballing this product.

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

There isn't one. You can build one for $300. But drop in. None.

Question... it may have been you who mentioned why this is not a good option but I can't remember when. Thoughts anyone?

LiTime 12V 100Ah LiFePO4 Lithium Battery, Built-in 100A BMS, 1280Wh En

LiTime 12V 100Ah LiFePO4 Lithium Battery is perfect for RV, Solar, Marine & Home Energy Backup. Maintenance-free, 4000+ Deep Cycles. Perfectly replace AGM group 31.

www.litime.com

 

[dragon.breath 10+ year member]

Question... it may have been you who mentioned why this is not a good option but I can't remember when. Thoughts anyone?

LiTime 12V 100Ah LiFePO4 Lithium Battery, Built-in 100A BMS, 1280Wh En

LiTime 12V 100Ah LiFePO4 Lithium Battery is perfect for RV, Solar, Marine & Home Energy Backup. Maintenance-free, 4000+ Deep Cycles. Perfectly replace AGM group 31.

www.litime.com

The battery that you linked to is not made for high current discharge. They are made for steady charging and discharging like for a camper. If you look at the FAQ section of the link, you will see that they don’t recommend using these batteries for starting a car. If it can’t take the amperage of a starter, it can’t handle the peaks of car audio either.

 

[Popwarhomie 5,000+ posts]

Question... it may have been you who mentioned why this is not a good option but I can't remember when. Thoughts anyone?

LiTime 12V 100Ah LiFePO4 Lithium Battery, Built-in 100A BMS, 1280Wh En

LiTime 12V 100Ah LiFePO4 Lithium Battery is perfect for RV, Solar, Marine & Home Energy Backup. Maintenance-free, 4000+ Deep Cycles. Perfectly replace AGM group 31.

www.litime.com

Very low charge and discharge rate. No where near enough to be used in a car.

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

Very low charge and discharge rate. No where near enough to be used in a car.

That's right, that's what I recall too. What kind of specs would one be looking for regarding in/out discharge ratings?

 

[Popwarhomie 5,000+ posts]

That's right, that's what I recall too. What kind of specs would one be looking for regarding in/out discharge ratings?

99% if not 100% of the cased lithium batteries you find online will not work for car audio. They are all solar batteries with low charging and discharging rates. The only one I can recommend is the Glowe Voltage.

 

[winkychevelle 10+ year member]

Lol echos of what was said on diyma

 

[HardofWhoring]

A lot of discussion on electrical/voltage draw and remedy.
Let's say for the sake of this discussion, stock Alt. Big three upgrade done, wanna reinforce quick discharge for occasional BASS amp draw/performance.
Not long duration sustain or at the picnic sound reinforcement when the car is off/parked, just want to help the system performance when listening without the lights dimming or the amp going into protect mode.

This is not my situation or anyone else in particular, just in general.

L/A or AGM under the hood, isolator inline, parallel ground in place 2/0 OFC.

1500 to 2000 watt system.

Assuming the need for a 2nd battery to fulfill this goal has been established.

What is your go-to BUDGET under $300 LiFePO4 drop-in solution?

Your scenario is bad.

* 2/0 ofc, why?

* A battery isolator would give you a second battery, not dual batteries, so it would help this in no possible way.

* If it's about a quick little hit when the vehicle is running and a 2000 watt system, that's 173 amps. If most vehicles are 110-150amp alts stock, that's only when it's electrical is being maxed out. Generally you use less than half of that unless it's really hot out.
A 250 amp alt is going is to satisfy that. An alt recharges/produces even for that burst, would also satisfy this, and be much more useful overall.

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

99% if not 100% of the cased lithium batteries you find online will not work for car audio. They are all solar batteries with low charging and discharging rates. The only one I can recommend is the Glowe Voltage.

Always learning, good info to have. There are a TON of these out there, temping for many I'm sure.

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

Your scenario is bad.

* 2/0 ofc, why?

* A battery isolator would give you a second battery, not dual batteries, so it would help this in no possible way.

* If it's about a quick little hit when the vehicle is running and a 2000 watt system, that's 173 amps. If most vehicles are 110-150amp alts stock, that's only when it's electrical is being maxed out. Generally you use less than half of that unless it's really hot out.
A 250 amp alt is going is to satisfy that. An alt recharges/produces even for that burst, would also satisfy this, and be much more useful overall.

2/0 because it was the same as the other 1/0 I was looking at purchasing (and only for reference since that is what I used) AND to decrease the current loss on the ground return as I am parallel grounding (2/0 back to battery/engine/chassis/motor) 1/0 to the rear frame.

Isolators are necessary when mixing chemistry types i.e., L/a, AGM under the hood, and li-on in the rear so yes, applicable and required in my opinion. The post did say "Assuming the need for a 2nd battery to fulfill this goal has been established"

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

What is your go-to BUDGET under $300 LiFePO4 drop-in solution?

There are none fit for car audio. As everybody else is telling you, most of those are meant to run a few lights and a little fan in a camper and are not going to be able to dump the amount of current you need to power any sort of audio system that is going to need extra battery, or at least 300$ worth of them isn't going to, and by the time you size up appropriately that they'll function properly at the load you plan to put on them you're in for more cost/space/weight than just using the correct battery for the application.

IF you can't afford more than 300$ to power a 2000W sound system, you should have bigger priorities in life than a 2000W sound system, but if you absolutely insist and only have 300$ to spend you're probably better off just buying whatever the biggest AGM you can manage with a decent warranty from parts store or batteries plus.

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

There are none fit for car audio. As everybody else is telling you, most of those are meant to run a few lights and a little fan in a camper and are not going to be able to dump the amount of current you need to power any sort of audio system that is going to need extra battery, or at least 300$ worth of them isn't going to, and by the time you size up appropriately that they'll function properly at the load you plan to put on them you're in for more cost/space/weight than just using the correct battery for the application.

IF you can't afford more than 300$ to power a 2000W sound system, you should have bigger priorities in life than a 2000W sound system, but if you absolutely insist and only have 300$ to spend you're probably better off just buying whatever the biggest AGM you can manage with a decent warranty from parts store or batteries plus.

Agree - and money is not my issue, It's hypothetical, using my system as a baseline. A lot of people looking for that kind of info, lots of batteries of all types out there trying to tell people otherwise. My system is set up just fine. Just trying to help spread the word that unless you're building your own bank, you need to spend some cash. I ran my system with a stock alternator for a long time, really no issues to speak of. Upgraded from a 1000-watt amp to ta 3K Hooligan and upgraded the ALT to 250A. 1/0 power and 2/0 ground to the rear and having both a 5 Farad hybrid stinger cap and a 47AH AGM to help out, works great. Heck, I don't really even need all that. I run the amp at 4ohms for longevity and at tolerable sound levels, rarely even getting close to a 50amp draw (clamped - not doing an SPL thing). With the advent of cheap power comes a lot of misinformation regarding the need for upgrades, even in the forums where a lot of people are not qualifying the need upfront. Just got this thread going because it offers a lot of insight on the subject. It's all good man!

 

[HardofWhoring]

2/0 because it was the same as the other 1/0 I was looking at purchasing (and only for reference since that is what I used) AND to decrease the current loss on the ground return as I am parallel grounding (2/0 back to battery/engine/chassis/motor) 1/0 to the rear frame.

Isolators are necessary when mixing chemistry types i.e., L/a, AGM under the hood, and li-on in the rear so yes, applicable and required in my opinion. The post did say "Assuming the need for a 2nd battery to fulfill this goal has been established"

Your isolator means you are using your two batteries separately, as in one at a time. So no.

I'm not sure what you think you're teaching people. This setup just doesn't make sense. That draw can easily be solved for most vehicles with just an upgraded alternator, that is a lot more useful, in this range, than a second battery.

With that draw you don't need a second battery. If money is not an issue, why did you list a budget battery? Take what you spent on that battery, the isolator, the wiring for both, and replace your single battery up front with an AGM and be done with it No need for a second battery on that draw.

What information do you think people need from this? It's just not a good setup, and doesn't make sense. You don't need a second battery with that draw, and with an upgraded alt you don't need to upgrade the stock battery. Then instead of wiring the batteries together so you could use them together, you used an isolator, so you're only using one battery at a time.

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

Your isolator means you are using your two batteries separately, as in one at a time. So no.

I'm not sure what you think you're teaching people. This setup just doesn't make sense. That draw can easily be solved for most vehicles with just an upgraded alternator, that is a lot more useful, in this range, than a second battery.

With that draw you don't need a second battery. If money is not an issue, why did you list a budget battery? Take what you spent on that battery, the isolator, the wiring for both, and replace your single battery up front with an AGM and be done with it No need for a second battery on that draw.

What information do you think people need from this? It's just not a good setup, and doesn't make sense. You don't need a second battery with that draw, and with an upgraded alt you don't need to upgrade the stock battery. Then instead of wiring the batteries together so you could use them together, you used an isolator, so you're only using one battery at a time.

And you are again, going off base. It states assumed, no real situation, hypothetical; try thinking outside the box. People come here and don't always ask questions about this stuff so this gives them info, maybe stimulates interest and they ask. You sometimes get a little angry, have trouble finding merit in that which you don't deem worthy of commentary, inaccurate by your criteria, or a waste of your time due to your perceived frivolous nature of the content, so maybe you should just “ignore” it, me or anyone that doesn’t fit your idea of the forums nomenclature is or what that should be in your “opinion”.

Presenting knowledge to anyone is a form of teaching sure, but alas, it is also here to help me learn, and anyone else too. Just putting out information on a topic of interest to me, to others, to some, apparently not you- and that’s okay.

It’s a “discussion”, not an edit for an encyclopedia!

There's nothing to fix here, just people discussing the merits of Li-on versus other approaches to a possible scenario, at a given price point, more to the subject matter and application than the determination of any real scenario. There is an isolator in place because the situation is using different chemistry types and one is needed – L/A or AGM under the hood, adding a Li-in to the mix, this requires the use of an isolator! Again,, the set up is hypothetical to support the grounds for adding an optional 2nfd battery, and if it’s specifically and most relevantly, at a specific price point -, forget about the setup, it really doesn’t matter given that it’s simply a pretext for the “DISCUSSION” about drop in cost effective Li-on options!

 

[HardofWhoring]

And you are again, going off base. It states assumed, no real situation, hypothetical;

"hypothetical, using my system as a baseline." and No, I'm not going off base, you're refusing to acknowledge the main post, this thread was started with.
"wanna reinforce quick discharge for occasional BASS amp draw/performance." - an isolator means you are not doing that.

try thinking outside the box.

So it's not outside the box right, it's literally inside your vehicle???

People come here and don't always ask questions about this stuff so this gives them info,

People ask all sorts of (ridiculous) questions in here. If they have it, they will ask it. But you're giving them the wrong info. You're scenario is just wrong.

maybe stimulates interest and they ask. You sometimes get a little angry,

Who said I was angry? Now you're the one trying to make this personal, why?

have trouble finding merit in that which you don't deem worthy of commentary, inaccurate by your criteria, or a waste of your time due to your perceived frivolous nature of the content, so maybe you should just “ignore” it, me or anyone that doesn’t fit your idea of the forums nomenclature is or what they should be in your “opinion”.

YOU CREATED A SCENARIO, and then want to try to justify how YOU DID IT when there are at least 2 BETTER ways to solve this problem. You're the one thinks you're right, and just because it's your own scenario doesn't mean you are.

Presenting knowledge to anyone is a form of teaching sure, but alas, it is also here to help me learn, and anyone else too. Just putting out information on a topic of interest to me, to others, to some, apparently not you- and that’s okay.

If you're here to learn then cool. You have created this thread, and presented it and yourself as in you are here to teach. There is a big difference. If you are here to learn, then respond to my reply, and stop trying to make this personal.

It’s a “discussion”, not an edit for an encyclopedia!

But it's not though. It's you trying to justify how you did it, and then trying to create a hypothetical scenario which doesn't make sense.

There's nothing to fix here, just people discussing the merits of Li-on versus other approaches to a possible scenario, at a given price point, more to the subject matter and application than the determination of any real scenario.

And YOU are getting mad because I pointed out there are better ways to do it. Lithium ion vs other is not the scenario being represented in this thread.

There is an isolator in place because the situation is using different chemistry types and one is needed – L/A or AGM under the hood, adding a Li-in to the mix, this requires the use of an isolator!

No, an isolator is required with YOUR SETUP because you used different batteries. This entire scenario started out because you wanted to BASE THIS ENTIRE THREAD OFF THIS PROBLEM: "wanna reinforce quick discharge for occasional BASS amp draw/performance." - Then you skipped over the two easiest ways to do that, (an alt and a better single battery), you spent a bunch on a second battery and an isolator which does nothing to solve that problem, and then turned this thread into talking about a budget battery? Your scenario and supposed reason for this thread, isn't going to be solved by the question you asked. You're getting mad because I'm trying to point that out for you and everyone else you think you're teaching.

Again,, the set up is hypothetical to support the grounds for adding an optional 2nfd battery, and if it’s specifically and most relevantly, at a specific price point -, forget about the setup, it really doesn’t matter given that it’s simply a pretext for the “DISCUSSION” about drop in cost effective Li-on options!

That was the point of the thread. It's not may fault you wrote a thread to "solve a scenario", that had absolutely nothing to do with the question you wanted to ask.
Again, this isn't hypothetical. What is it you think you're doing with this thread? Are you teaching people the wrong thing to do, or are you asking your own question????

If you have a question you want to ask, or a subject to talk about, then just ask it, or bring it up. You started this thread with a scenario that is wrong, and then acted like you were teaching people. When I tried to point out why it's wrong, you wrote a really long post making it personal, and not responding to what I said.
You just dragged this all out, and made it personal to prove why you're not wrong. I get what you're saying: you're not wrong, I'm wrong because you didn't mean to talk about what you wrote about, and It's just a "hypothetical situation" that you have right now, in your vehicle.