only one sub working at a time.

Ok so my step son gives me a Polk audio 12 in sub in an ported box to add to my system I put it in and only one of my subs will work at a time the weird thing is if I unhook one rca wire the working sub stops and the non working one kicks on if I reverse the rca's then the working non working speakers switch unhook an rca and the other speaker works fine it's driving me nutty. I'm running an boss 800 watt 2 channel mossfet amp a 12 Pioneer 1000 watt in a sealed box and the Polk is a 1000 watter as well.

 
Ok so my step son gives me a Polk audio 12 in sub in an ported box to add to my system I put it in and only one of my subs will work at a time the weird thing is if I unhook one rca wire the working sub stops and the non working one kicks on if I reverse the rca's then the working non working speakers switch unhook an rca and the other speaker works fine it's driving me nutty. I'm running an boss 800 watt 2 channel mossfet amp a 12 Pioneer 1000 watt in a sealed box and the Polk is a 1000 watter as well.
The amp is junk, period man. At best you might be getting 300rms....not nearly enough to power 2 1000rms subs. You also shouldn't ever run 2 different subs, you get cancellation issues.

 
Ok well I bought the amp used but took it to a pro to be bench tested first he said it was running perfectly. The rms on the amp my be that low possibly I'm not sure but 1000 watt peak subs at best their rms is 400 watt I don't see how I'm that severely under powering them and I have no idea what you mean by cancellation issues I've ran 2 different subs before and never had a prob like this those subs are in different boxes and hooked up to their own channels I guess I just fail to get what you mean.

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Ok well I bought the amp used but took it to a pro to be bench tested first he said it was running perfectly. The rms on the amp my be that low possibly I'm not sure but 1000 watt peak subs at best their rms is 400 watt I don't see how I'm that severely under powering them and I have no idea what you mean by cancellation issues I've ran 2 different subs before and never had a prob like this those subs are in different boxes and hooked up to their own channels I guess I just fail to get what you mean.
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just a word of advice, never ever bring up peak power in any car audio related conversations again lol. Its a useless marketing tactic number, basically its the number of watts the amp makes for one millisecond right before it blows up. RMS is continuous power where thats what you'll see every day. But with boss audio, their 800 watt max are only 50-100 watts per channel, anything above is just clipping/dirty signal, read up on that if you dont know what that is. Most clamp tests for true rms on the boss 1500 watt amps show they only produce 100 real watts at 4 ohms and 200 watts at 2 ohms. I know you are just trying to save money and are happy to have a cheap working amp but they really produce zilch power, all perceived loudness is just distortion to the ears Clean sounding hard hitting bass will sound completely different on an actual amp with clean power.

Here's a test of an amp that the same parts and circuit board as a boss 2000 watt amp, exact same amps just painted and relabeled differently. Bridged means two channels joined to one so 300 divided by 2 = 150 watts each channel. Keep in mind the amount of voltage in a normal car is 13.8 volts so in a real car setting, you'll get a lot lower numbers then in his test on a 14.8+ volts.


 
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