Oh Crud!! Cont'd Whats wrong with my electrical VIDEO!

[snb778 5,000+ posts]

when I did mine, I ran a wire from the alt case to frame and from that bolt to the battery - to cover all my bases.

I think ill do that, only from the ALT. case to the Batt. -. I already have a Bat- to frame

UPDATE: I brought the ALT into the shop today to be bench tested...he said it was dead as could be.. Which is a good thing IMO...said it was probably the diodes though....?? SO. will be ready to get picked up tomorrow, ill be able to get it re-installed tomorrow hopefully...fri. at worst

Does ANYBODY know...when I put my batcaps on the battery charger, if I can still have the hooked up together..because they are pretty tough to get at in my trunk as far as loosening up the nuts n bolts on the terminals since they are behind my box.... Would make life MUCH easier, and then I'd only have to do 1 charge (which takes about 18-24Hrs)

 

[jrwalte 10+ year member]

I would think you could. If anything it would just take the charger longer.

 

[dman4486 5,000+ posts]

you should be able to charge it all together, as this is how the alternator does it. however it will take a bit longer as the charger will see one large battery instead of two smaller ones.

 

[jrwalte 10+ year member]

BTW, is your yellowtop now sitting at a good voltage?

 

[Bun-Bun 10+ year member]

I would isolate the back batteries while charging them as they have a different chemistry then the front battery. Other then that I don't see the harm in charging the back two together.

 

[snb778 5,000+ posts]

BTW, is your yellowtop now sitting at a good voltage?

Bluetop.... and yes it is.. sitting at a comfortable 12.92!! I think thats more than it was when I first bought it!!

UPDATE: The "rectifier" was bad. He said he changed a few diodes, and beefed it up a little bit more so "now this thing should run like an S.O.B. for you" he said....... we'll see.. gettin the car back tomorrow morn... then I have to charge the rear batts for a day, so by sat. ill be up n runnin again to continue the break in process.

 

[Bun-Bun 10+ year member]

Good Luck!

 

[Ali1 10+ year member]

good to hear your coming to a solution

 

[snb778 5,000+ posts]

UPDATE:

Alright, so I got my car back about a week ago.. Alt is in and running great so far (havent actually tested it... to busy, TO DAM HOT, and now its raining)

I have the gain set at about 1/2 way I believe.. radio bass is on +5.... had it turned down for the first week of break-in...went to +5 to break it in a little bit more.. (cone is still stiff as helllll)

So far it sounds nice, plays pretty musically... BUT... on the harder notes, it just starts to get the change in my cup holder rattling (you all know what level your car starts to do that...and its a pretty high level) I am just kinda scared to crank it up much more because I know I have the power to blow this thing at will... I am going to give it another week of break in time since I don't drive that much, and i've read that ABOUT 20hrs is the general rule. After that i'll play a 30 or 40 hz tone and turn it up until it doesnt get any louder...drop it down a notch, and there we go.. SO, we'll see what happens.

It doesn't have the "tightness" that i was hoping for though.... once I go full tilt with it.. if I still don't like it, i'll either port it, OR sell it and go back to 2 15's, or 1 BTL F.L. on 3000watts

my main goal was to go less cone area, and stay just as loud with a higher end driver, AND have a sub that could go ported OR sealed.