Oh Crud!! Cont'd Whats wrong with my electrical VIDEO!

[ThatChevyGuy 5,000+ posts]

take all your batts out.

Trickle charge them

Rewire it.

Reinstall.

Then we can go from there.

 

[jrwalte 10+ year member]

a battery cannot charge a battery. It'll just give the dead battery some power. And when you're using a tiny amperage start battery to charge a deep cycle huge amperage battery, you aren't going to get much of a charge in it. In order to truly charge a bat you must give it well over its resting voltage (hence your alt runs around 13.5-14.6). A trickle charger does this.

 

[snb778 5,000+ posts]

take all your batts out.Trickle charge them

Rewire it.

Reinstall.

Then we can go from there.

no way... not doin all that after everything i have already done. its gotta be the alt. im takin it out tomorrow...sending it in, re-wiring under the hood, charging the batts while the car is on the DL until I get the ALT back.

a battery cannot charge a battery. It'll just give the dead battery some power. And when you're using a tiny amperage start battery to charge a deep cycle huge amperage battery, you aren't going to get much of a charge in it. In order to truly charge a bat you must give it well over its resting voltage (hence your alt runs around 13.5-14.6). A trickle charger does this.

ill go out and get one tomorrow... I just didnt want to leave my Optoma at 11.9V, 12.0.. figured it would be better to bump it up as high as I can for now. I guess im just trying to see if it will take a charge at all, to see if its completely dead or not.

well i am at work... work from 6pm to 2AM.. see ya tomorrow.

 

[snb778 5,000+ posts]

UPDATE:::: Brought the car in today... got a battery charger from Lowe's so far so good... until I get my car back (which will be about a week or so) thanks for the help guys, much appreciated

 

[dman4486 5,000+ posts]

I would say there is a short somewhere in the run from the alternator + to battery +. this would cause the battery to drain constantly and could have destroyed the alternator thus no 14v source.

check the wires to the regulator on the alt, and the + on the alt to make sure they are securely connected. you may also have a fuse in line with the alternator +.

 

[snb778 5,000+ posts]

I would say there is a short somewhere in the run from the alternator + to battery +. this would cause the battery to drain constantly and could have destroyed the alternator thus no 14v source.
check the wires to the regulator on the alt, and the + on the alt to make sure they are securely connected. you may also have a fuse in line with the alternator +.

well, im getting the ALT taken out tomorrow. so they will bench test it and we will see... All the wires are brand new, and loomed so I'd hope that would rule out a short.

If there is a fuse inline with the ALT wire, then its wrapped up in a bundle of wires, and taped from the factory.. not touchin that.. YET

 

[snb778 5,000+ posts]

UPDATE:

Just put the engine block to GND in... Check it out... Hope it is right.. Its directly from the Block to one of the suspension bolts that is connected to the chassis WITH NO RUBBER WASHER or anything...AND we grinded off all the rust..



you can't see exactly where its grounded, but right where you can't see it is basically where its connected... its about 10" long... hope this is up to everyone's standard

As far as the ALT goes... There is the big bolt that goes INTO the ALT for the + post...but there is no NEG. post.. do I just used the bolt that holds the ALT to the chassis for the -

 

[snb778 5,000+ posts]

anybody...?? Just tryin to find out if all ALT's only have 1 post for the +

 

[dman4486 5,000+ posts]

the alt is grounded through its case, so you can just leave it as is or add another wire to that bolt

 

[Pioneer~Saturn 5,000+ posts]

anybody...?? Just tryin to find out if all ALT's only have 1 post for the +

Yea, alot have just the single terminal/bolt for the positive connection to the batt's positive..and no actual terminal for the negative. If you dont see another terminal then its a single-wire setup and should be just fine as-is..

Weird stuff though..hope it gets straightened out

 

[GMCJimmyslt2000 10+ year member]

take it back to place that put the alt in, they should fix it if its there fault. i woulndt screw with it anymore, let the pros handle it.

 

[snb778 5,000+ posts]

Yea, alot have just the single terminal/bolt for the positive connection to the batt's positive..and no actual terminal for the negative. If you dont see another terminal then its a single-wire setup and should be just fine as-is..
Weird stuff though..hope it gets straightened out

So I don't need a - run from the ALT to the Batt-???

take it back to place that put the alt in, they should fix it if its there fault. i woulndt screw with it anymore, let the pros handle it.

Oh they will fix it, but they are going to give me crap about why it broke in the first place, and blame it on the wiring, and "big fancy stereo" draws to much power

 

[dman4486 5,000+ posts]

So I don't need a - run from the ALT to the Batt-???

the alternator is grounded to the engine block, and you ran a wire from the block to frame. As long as the battery has a good ground to the frame, then the frame is the connection from batt negative to alternator "negative"

 

[jrwalte 10+ year member]

If you want to be overboard and have more wire laying around, you can always do a run from engine block to battery negative to cut out any possible resistance between the bat -- frame -- engine block -- alt path. You could do an ohm test from the bat neg and the alt case. If it is .03 or less I woudn't worry about another wire.

 

[dman4486 5,000+ posts]

when I did mine, I ran a wire from the alt case to frame and from that bolt to the battery - to cover all my bases.