Noobs First Wall; Democcord Part 2

Lots of trial and error that’s for sure!
That's about the only way to get those oddball shapes/angles. Very tedious.

Got ya. Thanks for the tip. I’m planning to add some metal rods going from front to back and side to side. I’m hoping that will help as well
I'm not sure how much power you plan to run but I don't think the 1.5 layers all around is anywhere near adequate. You had better be planning a spiderweb of bracing in there.

 
That's about the only way to get those oddball shapes/angles. Very tedious.


I'm not sure how much power you plan to run but I don't think the 1.5 layers all around is anywhere near adequate. You had better be planning a spiderweb of bracing in there.
As of right now I’m planning to run 2 4ks. I’m currently going to run 1 until I can get the 2nd one. I do plan to add a lot of bracing inside with metal rods. I’m hoping that will be enough. In the future I do plan to upgrade from that set up but it will probably be next season

 
As of right now I’m planning to run 2 4ks. I’m currently going to run 1 until I can get the 2nd one. I do plan to add a lot of bracing inside with metal rods. I’m hoping that will be enough. In the future I do plan to upgrade from that set up but it will probably be next season
You cannot possibly have too much bracing/layers. As strong as you think it will be it will probably still be losing output from flexing.

 
You cannot possibly have too much bracing/layers. As strong as you think it will be it will probably still be losing output from flexing.
That’s what I’m assuming as well. I ordered some threaded rods and will find out how that helps and see if I need to keep adding from here. So far I’m planning to add 4. But like you said I’m probably going to lose due to some flex somewhere but I’ll find out when I get there. Right now just hoping to have a musical Car that I can run

 
So after talking to some teammates and some convincing I’m switching from 2 18s to 4 15s. So I stopped where I’m at on the baffle since I’ve only cut the shape to fit into the box and not the sub holes or port and will keep going once I finish the sell of the subs I currently have. Once I get those funds I’m planning on getting the dbsa2715s

 
So currently I’m working on sealing the b pillar













So I have the pieces ready to glue down and cut out sub holes and start port just need to wait to order speakers spoken, hopefully in the next couple of weeks. And I’m currently 3 layers of fiberglass and resin in and still planning to do another 5 of both or until I’m happy with it.

 
I know this sunroof is going to be a pain but any ideas on bracing without going past b pillar? Going to try and be in modified in usaci and nothing can be modified past b pillar

 
If there are any planes you want air tight but dont want to fiberglass, theres a pretty easy way to do it. Cut a wooden trim panel (usually out of hardboard or some really thin plywood) that fits pretty close to the shape, with at most like a 1/2" gap with what you are trying to seal to. Install it as bare wood. Then in all the gaps, fill with some bondo or better yet, bondo glass. Take all the areas where the trim will meet the surface (usually a pillar, floor, or headliner) and cover it in painters tape so the bondo doesnt get all over it. Just smear the bondo in there, no points for neatness. Once it cures, take it out and sand the front and back flat, and wrap in whatever material you want to use for the trim panel. The bondo will have coutoured to whatever you smeared it up against creating a perfect fit, and once wrapped, it will look like you cut it out perfectly.

Its nice to use the hardboard because you can slightly bend it to get it to fit into tight spaces.

 
If there are any planes you want air tight but dont want to fiberglass, theres a pretty easy way to do it. Cut a wooden trim panel (usually out of hardboard or some really thin plywood) that fits pretty close to the shape, with at most like a 1/2" gap with what you are trying to seal to. Install it as bare wood. Then in all the gaps, fill with some bondo or better yet, bondo glass. Take all the areas where the trim will meet the surface (usually a pillar, floor, or headliner) and cover it in painters tape so the bondo doesnt get all over it. Just smear the bondo in there, no points for neatness. Once it cures, take it out and sand the front and back flat, and wrap in whatever material you want to use for the trim panel. The bondo will have coutoured to whatever you smeared it up against creating a perfect fit, and once wrapped, it will look like you cut it out perfectly.
Its nice to use the hardboard because you can slightly bend it to get it to fit into tight spaces.
I hadn’t heard of that way yet. That might be a good idea to ty on the next project. For now I’ve bought enough resin and fiberglass to get this build finish. Now just the time to get it done.

 
I know this sunroof is going to be a pain but any ideas on bracing without going past b pillar? Going to try and be in modified in usaci and nothing can be modified past b pillar
The sunroof has to work.. they full of ****. The rule book says you can modify anything but has to behind the b-pillar. then when I asked about it they said the sunroof has to work..wish they would have told me that before I f****** did the build. The Rulebook didn't say anything about the sunroof.

 
The sunroof has to work.. they full of ****. The rule book says you can modify anything but has to behind the b-pillar. then when I asked about it they said the sunroof has to work..wish they would have told me that before I f****** did the build. The Rulebook didn't say anything about the sunroof.
Well that’s going to **** cause when I got the car the sunroof didn’t work to begin with. I’m going to have to email. They never said it had to work just that I needed a headliner

 
The sunroof has to work.. they full of ****. The rule book says you can modify anything but has to behind the b-pillar. then when I asked about it they said the sunroof has to work..wish they would have told me that before I f****** did the build. The Rulebook didn't say anything about the sunroof.
Your right. Apparently all windows have to work and my dumb *** just went ahead and took everything off including switches for sunroof since I didn’t think I would need it.

 
Activity
No one is currently typing a reply...

Similar threads

Ok then 11 cubes will be fine. Keep in mind the f/s of those woofers is about 28 hz, so you if you tune really high above that, the woofers can...
12
1K
What would you recommend using for the roof then ? Should I do just the bpillar or the whole roof ?
2
865
If you order directly from taramps in brazil you can get a smart 3k for $259 shipped...
9
2K
These are the tweeters in going to use in my truck. Beefy little guys just going by weight. Probably not the best for a car audio setup, but I'll...
63
8K

About this thread

Inter007

10+ year member
Senior VIP Member
Thread starter
Inter007
Joined
Location
Round Rock, Texas
Start date
Participants
Who Replied
Replies
99
Views
18,546
Last reply date
Last reply from
Dafaseles
IMG_6578.png

saints747

    May 7, 2024
  • 0
  • 0
IMG_6579.png

saints747

    May 7, 2024
  • 0
  • 0

Latest topics

Top