Noob dropping 5k on new system, need help

I was kind of wondering about that. My car is 18 years old so I'm sure there's going to be some rattles that need deadener. They told me that after the build, they find all the rattles and add deadener. I guess they spot deaden it?
that makes no sense,there is no such thing is spot deadening. what sense does it makes if they are installing wires and they have the seats and carpert out and the bare metals exposed to then wait till eveything is in the car, carpet seats and box, to then deceide where to "deaden" its real hard to point to where exactly a rattle is coming from thats why u just do the whole trunk and backseat if u can afford it please if u have not gave them any money yet, dont give them a dime, and if u have gave them something first try and get it back and if u cant get whatever u paid for and run. i made the same mistake when i was 18, i had a bunch of money and i took my turbo eclipse to an import shop and said make it fast, i didnt take the time and to research what i should be getting and cost. same thing when i did my system, i said make it loud. both times i got taken for a ride. there are plenty of good dudes here that offer free good advice, even people to design you a box(@CSCStang) so take your time and dont get played

 
I called around today for another estimate and it looks like $1200 is the going rate, give or take depending on the quality of materials. One guy refused to do the install if I had both amps installed. He said I'd need at least 4 more batteries and a very high output alternator and that what I wanted couldn't be in a daily driver car because it would be too hard on the car.

 
They make a 320 amp Alt for your car. Get one of those and do the big three and be ready to have a few batteries on tap. If you're prepared electrically any competent installer or shop should have the ability to do it.

 
I called around today for another estimate and it looks like $1200 is the going rate, give or take depending on the quality of materials. One guy refused to do the install if I had both amps installed. He said I'd need at least 4 more batteries and a very high output alternator and that what I wanted couldn't be in a daily driver car because it would be too hard on the car.
Ding ding ding we found a winner. This guy actually telling you straight up what it really means to run 5k+ watts Not just some shop that wants your money and will install it no matter how bad of an idea it is.

im going to check out the other 2 car audio shops here in Columbus. How exactly would you wire up the batteries and amps to one amp kit. I have a feeling they might see me coming so I want to be able to explain exactly how I want it wired up. Also how would BI amping help with the imaging? I don't think the head unit has enough power to push the 6x9s. And how is poer to the rear damaging to the sound stage and imaging. The 6x9s don't sound as good as the component, but I thought it was because they don't have their own crossover. Also if anyone knows of a good car audio installation place around Columbus Ohio that's trust worthy, I'd appreaciate it.
There's a difference between noise aka what you think is loud and clean vs actual music reproduction. Whatever you think you know about music, there's a totally different world of sound quality possible that you have not tapped into.

WE ARENT TELLING YOU TO BUY SOME DUMB AMP KIT. We are telling you to buy a 50 feet spool of wire instead. IF you ask how to wire, i'll show you with a picture because apparently you cant comprehend whats clearly stated...

p><p>No%20one%20in%20their%20right%20minds%20that%20want%20an%20immaculate%20sounding%20setup%20would%20bother%20wasting%20any%20time%20or%20money%20on%20rears.%20Go%20to%20an%20SQ%20comp%20and%20you%20will%20not%20see%20anyone%20caught%20dead%20using%20rear%206x9s%20and%20everyone


I just said head unit power because i know most noobs think their rear 6x9s are everything and get offended when people say get rid of your 6x9s.

 
This is where I avoid getting into ITD and midbass arrays about 6x9s and their uses or properly implemented rearfill with FIR or (l-R)+ (R-l) using a Helix dsp.

But yea, without getting abundantly over technical. Worry about your front speakers. They are 90% of a good stage.

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk

 
Ding ding ding we found a winner. This guy actually telling you straight up what it really means to run 5k+ watts Not just some shop that wants your money and will install it no matter how bad of an idea it is.


There's a difference between noise aka what you think is loud and clean vs actual music reproduction. Whatever you think you know about music, there's a totally different world of sound quality possible that you have not tapped into.

WE ARENT TELLING YOU TO BUY SOME DUMB AMP KIT. We are telling you to buy a 50 feet spool of wire instead. IF you ask how to wire, i'll show you with a picture because apparently you cant comprehend whats clearly stated...

p><p>No%20one%20in%20their%20right%20minds%20that%20want%20an%20immaculate%20sounding%20setup%20would%20bother%20wasting%20any%20time%20or%20money%20on%20rears.%20Go%20to%20an%20SQ%20comp%20and%20you%20will%20not%20see%20anyone%20caught%20dead%20using%20rear%206x9s%20and%20everyone


I just said head unit power because i know most noobs think their rear 6x9s are everything and get offended when people say get rid of your 6x9s.
Thanks for the reply. I understand soundstage (deep, wide, differnt shapes of it) imaging, resolution, instrument separation, detail, presentation, 'wall of sound effect'. My main home rig consists of a pair of HE-500 planer headphones pushed by a Fostex HP-P1 headphone amp/DAC combo. All my non EDM music is ripped to ALAC. I wasn't aware that kind of sound could be created in a car. I understand your point on not using the 6x9s, too bad you can't get a 5.1 set up in a car.

I think im going to have it professionally done though since this is my first build, it's expencive and if I have questions I do t have any one to ask and I want it done in a timely manor. How many DBs do you think I'll hit with this trunk setup with one amp as apposed to 2. Will it do hair tricks or window/panel flex with one amp? Do you think it'll be louder with one sub on one amp or 2 subs on one amp. Will it be more accurate with 2 subs one one amp or one amp and one sub? Thanks for your help man!

 
Thanks for the reply. I understand soundstage (deep, wide, differnt shapes of it) imaging, resolution, instrument separation, detail, presentation, 'wall of sound effect'. My main home rig consists of a pair of HE-500 planer headphones pushed by a Fostex HP-P1 headphone amp/DAC combo. All my non EDM music is ripped to ALAC. I wasn't aware that kind of sound could be created in a car. I understand your point on not using the 6x9s, too bad you can't get a 5.1 set up in a car.
I think im going to have it professionally done though since this is my first build, it's expencive and if I have questions I do t have any one to ask and I want it done in a timely manor. How many DBs do you think I'll hit with this trunk setup with one amp as apposed to 2. Will it do hair tricks or window/panel flex with one amp? Do you think it'll be louder with one sub on one amp or 2 subs on one amp. Will it be more accurate with 2 subs one one amp or one amp and one sub? Thanks for your help man!
music is recorded in 2.1 so any rear is useless. Do you have time alignment on your head unit? Car audio soundstage is pretty massively different from head fi stuff. Its massively wider however its harder to work with due to the reflections of all the surfaces in the vehicle and the uneven distances from the speakers/tweeters to your ear. thats why you need time alignment as a feature on your head unit along with at least 13 bands of EQ.

Done right you should be hitting a 150 with a trunk wall and get good flex and maybe a paper trick or some miniscule hair movement. Didnt you say you were gonna run two amps? You do know your audiopipes are only 2 ohm stable right? running two d4 subs on one amp only allows for 4 ohms and 1 ohm load wiring so either you barely get any power or you overly stress your amp. at least with the two amps you can have each sub wired down to 2 ohms and each amp sees 2 ohms.

I wholeheartedly agree with popwarhomie. You are setting yourself up for a disaster with impatience and lock of knowledge.

 
HS...too many questions....and the one that gets asked the most...what will I hit with this setup.

 

---------- Post added at 09:22 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:21 AM ----------

 

This is where I avoid getting into ITD and midbass arrays about 6x9s and their uses or properly implemented rearfill with FIR or (l-R)+ (R-l) using a Helix dsp.
But yea, without getting abundantly over technical. Worry about your front speakers. They are 90% of a good stage.

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk
Ask John Kuthe....he's a 6x9 user lover....

 
I looked and I do have time alignment. It also has options for the size of the car, type of car, where the speakers are located within the car and size and shape of speakers along with a 5 band EQ. I set everything up except time alignment.

 
HS...too many questions....and the one that gets asked the most...what will I hit with this setup. 

---------- Post added at 09:22 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:21 AM ----------

 

Ask John Kuthe....he's a 6x9 user lover....
Rearfill or midbass have their uses. Either 8s or 6x9s are both good choices on the rear deck.

But thats entirely not the point of this thread.

And lets not even start on He Who Shall Not Be Named.

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk

 
I picked up a 300 amp alt. I returned the pair of 4 ohm HCCAs and am keeping the 2 ohm models. I'm going to buy a different amp and could use some advice. I'm looking at An Orion HCCA 8000.1D and a Taramps HD100002 2 ohm. What do you guys think of these amps and are there any more I should consider? Thanks!

 
disturbed had a 2 ohm taramps 6500 for sale. You don't need all the power of that 10000 do you?
I'd rather buy it new. I probably won't use all that power. Are those amps any good? I'm kinda leaning towards the Orion to keep the sub setup all one brand, there're both about the same price on Amazon.

 
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