Non-standard custom ported or bandpass box design questions: 1x CT Sounds TROPO 18 D4

[technotic]

Hello,

As I'm new here, I'll go ahead and fill out "The List" first off.

Vehicle : Ford Focus ZX4 (Sedan) 2005

Location in the vehicle: Trunk (back seats fold down)

Space available (Length x Width x Height): 18 inch to lowest point on rear deck. 27 degree backward slant, bottom to top (rear seats), ~ 36 inches inside wheel wells (narrowest point directly below rear deck), ~ 48 inches from bottom of seat slant to trunk trim, ~ 22 inches height behind rear deck. Slanted surface height is ~ 20 inches.


Subwoofer make and model: 1x CT Sounds TROPO 18 D4 (dual voice coil @4ohms each)

Subwoofer Size: 18 inch

Number of Subwoofers: 1

Type of Port (Kerfed, Slot, Aero, etc.): Considering slotted or bandpass

What type of music do you like?: EDM. I like catchy rap/pop/hip hop with good bass lines

Is your goal SPL or Everyday Music?: Aiming for manufacturer SPL spec, but non comp. So every day music

Tuning Freq (Hz): 28hz (mfg SPL spec)

Volume : 6.5ft^3

Amp: Audio Acoustik RZR1-2500D (class D monoblock, 650w RMS, 2500w "peak")

Head Unit: Pioneer AVH-5800BHS

Sub Specs from manufacturer:

18 Inch Dual 4 Ohm Coil Configuration
RMS Power: 650 Watts
MAX Power: 1300 Watts
3 Inch - 4 Layer High-Temperature Copper Voice Coil
Y30 Graded Double Stacked Ferrite Magnet
Competition Mega Foam Surround
Composite Paper with 3% Carbon Fiber Reinforcement
Signature Chrome Plated Low Carbon Iron Bottom Plate
Advanced Air Cooling System
Dual Round Weaved Copper Tinsel Leads
12 Gauge Push Terminals
Fs: 23.40 Hz
Qms: 5.02
Qes: 0.89
Qts: 0.75
Vas: 193.53 L
Cms: 0.11 mm/N
Mms: 434 gr
Sd: 1134 cm²
Re: 1.68
Le: 0.96
BI: 11.00 n/a
Sensitivity: 88.51 dB
Xmax: 13mm (one-way)

Misc: 4x Rockford Fosgate 5x7 (2 front, 2 rear deck) 2-way direct off head unit.

Installation details: going to do Big 3 upgrade with 1/0 gauge OFC. 1/0 gauge OFC positive to distro block under hood (4x 4 gauge ANL fused slots, as I want to add an SAE connector for my charger and jump starter unit, and a USB/rocker switch power panel below CC cluster. may change distro block though and put in-line quick disconnect to rear power run to allow air gap if charging/jumping), 1/0 gauge OFC to trunk into a 2-way reducer distro block, 4 gauge OFC to amp with a 4-to-8 gauge reducer adapter (amp power input is 8 gauge, dual 25a fuses), 4 gauge OFC ground using 4-to-8 reducer same as power.

Questions:

So I added a few extra details to "The List" but it may or may not be relevant.

I had been eyeing the CT Sounds TROPO 18 D4 (standard price: 179.99 USD) and CT had it on sale for a few days for 140. So I bought it, got it today. I figured I would build my own enclosure to optimize trunk space and tuning. This will be my first custom box build but I've been doing research. I intend to use 3/4 inch cabinet B grade plywood instead of MDF. I just built out a big wall cabinet with same stock (but walnut veneered) and found no voids or issues. Plan to treat with boiled linseed oil and polycrylic on inside face and contact cement some upholstery on outside. I planned on using pocket holes to join each panel with silicone sealer along every seam and in pocket holes, as well as using it as a gasket for the speaker terminals panel and speaker bezel. I intend to wire the voice coils as parallel "home runs" from terminal panel to each connector. My research seems to indicate that good quality plywood of 3/4 inch is superior to 3/4 inch MDF due to density and rigidity and less absorption.

I originally considered a sealed box @ 4ft^3 (mfg SPEC) but changed my mind. I'm now planning on going ported slot (mfg spec is 40ft^2 port area, and 6.5ft^3 tuned @28Hz from their SPL spec data). Tonight though, I also got curious about maybe doing a bandpass enclosure, but I haven't figured out WinISD yet (just installed last night) and subbox.pro only provides basic sealed or ported enclosure designs. Based on subbox.pro, entering all the mfg specs it asks for and giving a height of 20 inches and width of 36 inches, it gave me the following design:
20" x 36" x 20.85"
Front port slotted:

https://subbox.pro/en/b/o6NF5LS7b

Side port slotted:

Subwoofer box CT Sounds TROPO 18 SPL MFG SPEC PORT SIDE

18 inch subwoofer box design CT Sounds TROPO 18 SPL MFG SPEC PORT SIDE, ported box plan, 3D model. Net internal volume 6.50 cubic feet, port area 40.00 square inches, tuning frequency 28 Hz. Subwoofer box calculator online

subbox.pro

These don't have braces (not sure if I need them?) And the design options are only squared edges.

So first real question is, is slanting the front panel/baffle at 27 degree acceptable, which will allow 20 inches height so the sub can mount in the face at an angle? I considered using a 24" x 24" panel cut down to 20" x 24" for the sub mount, then overlapping 2 inches on each side with 20" x 8" pieces (with overlaps, 8" (6" + 2" OL) + 20" (24" -2" OL left, -2" OL right) + 8" (6" + 2" OL) = actual width 8" + 20" + 8" = 36". The main speaker panel in the center would be behind the 8" side panels too, which would make the speaker slightly recessed to hopefully reduce the risk of cone damage if the front side of the box were to bump something like a wall. I don't know it it would be too complex to then have the top panel 12" in depth to clear the rear deck and the another height extension by 4 inches to bring height total to 22". I can also expand width above the wheel wells by 6" on each side, starting at ~ 8" height from bottom..

maybe I'm making this way too complex to maximize space. Okay, so let's go with, can I slant the front panel at 27 degrees, and go flat on the back? Or if I put a second angle in at that point, to incline enough to give a 20" back, and then mount the speaker facing back? Or arrange it with the speaker firing up?

As for the port slot.. would side firing be the right way to go or front firing (or if the sub faced up, then port firing toward front of vehicle)?

I'm willing to put the extra effort into customizing the shape to expand over the wheel wells and such, to keep as much trunk space as I can. I don't suppose it would work having the speaker height at say 15 inches, up against the seats almost but facing upward, with the box dropping down and shallow but wide and long, the minimum height to reach the full volume with the port at the opposite end from the speaker?

Sorry if I seem to be getting far too specific. I don't expect it but anyone with experience creating unique custom boxes like I'm describing is interested in giving me a little of their time and knowledge to help me create something like the odd shapes I've mentioned, I would be hugely grateful. I can always do something functional for now and take my time building the custom custom enclosure.

Sorry if I've confused or lost you guys with my rambling. I don't expect anyone to answer all of these. The important questions are regarding the sloped front panel for the speaker and how to beat shape that, whether to mount the speaker forward, rear, or up, and the recommended port location to match.

Lastly, any input on the idea of building a bandpass box instead? My research says that they are pretty unforgiving to design errors, but I'm sure there's a proper schematic somewhere that would be appropriate for my environment. I'm still doing research on these.


Sorry for such a long and partially confusing post, but I do appreciate any feedback and anyone willing to take the time to share their knowledge and expertise with me. You guys have far more experience than I'm sure I will ever dedicate myself to learning as in-depth, and I respect that. Thanks in advance.

Tech

Click to read more...

 

[Popwarhomie 5,000+ posts]

TLDR.



You aren’t fitting an 18 in the trunk of a focus with a properly sized ported or band pass.

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

Okay, so let's go with, can I slant the front panel at 27 degrees, and go flat on the back? Or if I put a second angle in at that point, to incline enough to give a 20" back, and then mount the speaker facing back? Or arrange it with the speaker firing up?

As for the port slot.. would side firing be the right way to go or front firing (or if the sub faced up, then port firing toward front of vehicle)?

For the most part, shape of the box doesn't matter, what you're aiming for is the springiness you get from that specific volume of air so angles and custom shapes to build around wheel wells or whatever should only matter for whatever volume of air they give or take.

Before you get really crazy with this, keep in mind a box that will fit in your trunk may not fit in your trunk if you build it outside of the vehicle and try to shove it in there. Mock something up with cardboard if you can or at least try to dry-fit the sides of the box to confirm you can get it into the trunk before you glue and screw the whole thing. Performing surgery on an assembled box to get it to fit into a trunk is a colossal pain in the arse.

Bandpass with the port up into the passenger compartment is a good strategy for sedans, ported box can do OK as well but only testing different configurations will tell you which direction aiming the sub(s)/port will be optimum.

IF you really want to go crazy and build the box inside the vehicle you may be pigionholing yourself into only being able to use that particular woofer (or one with similar specs) and you may have a difficult time building it in a way that the sub can be removed/replaced/upgraded if needed down the road.

I don't think your choice of wood will make an audible difference and unless you're using steel or granite or something exotic larger panels will probably benefit from bracing with any common 3/4" lumber.

 

[technotic]

You aren’t fitting an 18 in the trunk of a focus with a properly sized ported or band pass.

Okay.. manufacturer spec calls for 6.5 cubic feet, 40 square inch port area, for a ported box tuned to 28hz. What volume are you suggesting I'd need?

 

[Popwarhomie 5,000+ posts]

Okay.. manufacturer spec calls for 6.5 cubic feet, 40 square inch port area, for a ported box tuned to 28hz. What volume are you suggesting I'd need?

I'm saying you should sell the 18 and go to a smaller woofer(s). I'm guessing you will not be able to fire it forward or backwards. So you are limited to firing up. The box is going to take up the whole trunk and have to be built inside. That will have the subwoofer firing right on the trunk lid. Whole thing is just going to be a rattle box if you got that to work. That 6.5 cubic foot is NET size. Gross is going to be much larger.

Sell the 18. Get two 12s firing forward. It's not worth all the trouble for a 600 watt 18.

 

[technotic]

For the most part, shape of the box doesn't matter, what you're aiming for is the springiness you get from that specific volume of air so angles and custom shapes to build around wheel wells or whatever should only matter for whatever volume of air they give or take.

Before you get really crazy with this, keep in mind a box that will fit in your trunk may not fit in your trunk if you build it outside of the vehicle and try to shove it in there. Mock something up with cardboard if you can or at least try to dry-fit the sides of the box to confirm you can get it into the trunk before you glue and screw the whole thing. Performing surgery on an assembled box to get it to fit into a trunk is a colossal pain in the arse.

Bandpass with the port up into the passenger compartment is a good strategy for sedans, ported box can do OK as well but only testing different configurations will tell you which direction aiming the sub(s)/port will be optimum.

IF you really want to go crazy and build the box inside the vehicle you may be pigionholing yourself into only being able to use that particular woofer (or one with similar specs) and you may have a difficult time building it in a way that the sub can be removed/replaced/upgraded if needed down the road.

I don't think your choice of wood will make an audible difference and unless you're using steel or granite or something exotic larger panels will probably benefit from bracing with any common 3/4" lumber.

Thank you for the detailed info. I'm fine with assembling it inside the vehicle. It does make sense that it would be easier. I don't plan to remove the box. If the speaker is facing the cabin then I should be able to fold my seats down to gain access for removal or repair. If I use the 24x20" panel to mount the speaker into, I could always make it detachable so that I pop that off and then I have full access to the speaker, simply disconnect the wires and the panel and speaker should be able to slide out once turned. Aside from repairs, it would be easy to replace that panel if or when I change speakers, so I wouldn't have to try adapting the old mount hole.

If I choose a permanentish enclosure, it would definitely be beneficial to use the inner trunk-area vehicle shell as part of the enclosure, but I assume I'd have to spray or coat those areas and remove upholstery that's there already. Would you recommend going that route for building the enclosure into the vehicle? My spare tire cavity is also unused at the moment. I haven't picked up a matching spare wheel after doing my wheels and tires, the donut would not be usable. If I don't use the body as part of the enclosure then i guess I'd be cutting panels so they maximize available space. But obviously the need to be securely fastenable as well.

You've given me another angle to look at, thank you.

 

[shredder2]

Any manufacturer sub recommendations are usually able to be changed somewhat. Thru modeling and with vehicle/power in mind this thing went in the trunk of a Challenger. It was supposed to go in as upfiring/corner loaded. The customer was adamant to use these space dimensions as he read it on Facebook group. No amount of persuasion would convince him to pull out a tape and verify a few things for me. After multiple pleas for more info the design went ahead. It ended up going in the right way... but without the sub loaded. So he had to spin the enclosure /w/ sub to clear the parcel shelf (and the sub had to be preloaded)... oops. It went in but ended up with the ports firing above and into a wheelwell... lol. That whole circus he went thru was my initial concern during our discussions. It sounded great overall but was not optimal airspace/port area wise or installed like it was supposed to be, plus his expectations were a little out there. He wanted to break interior panels, windshields and the camera he planned to make Youtube videos with... lol.

As stated above with a trunk its best to be certain it'll be able to fit unless you're planning to build it in the trunk. I could have designed something way better for him had he been willing to pull out a tape.
It sounds like you don't fear the tape measure so it's probably going to be doable imo.

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

Would you recommend going that route for building the enclosure into the vehicle?

I'm with pop on this one. No way you're doing an 18" woofer well in a truck with the possible exception of bandpass ported up through the rear deck or similar and you had better hope you get it right the first try.

If you're dead set on sealing off the trunk and mounting the sub at an angle somehow behind the rear seats do yourself a favor and cut the baffle first, set it in place, and see if you can actually get the sub in there and screw it secure. I see people struggle to get 12's mounted in boxes done this way and really after displacement of wood and port you'll be hard pressed to get 6 cubic feet net.

 

[dragon.breath 10+ year member]

Going by the specs, that subwoofer is optimized for a sealed enclosure. (EBP is 26.3 ).

 

[technotic]

Any manufacturer sub recommendations are usually able to be changed somewhat.
...
As stated above with a trunk its best to be certain it'll be able to fit unless you're planning to build it in the trunk. I could have designed something way better for him had he been willing to pull out a tape.
It sounds like you don't fear the tape measure so it's probably going to be doable imo.

I've got just about every measurement for my trunk now it's currently emptied with all panels removed including the trim (not the rear deck). All wires, latch, light, and basically anything that isn't the actual body, is masked, including having pushed the seats down a little to put a drop cloth plastic sheet over the opening, I used vapor barrier tape for that area.

I started the first step I wanted to do which is coating the inside of my trunk with 3m pro rubberized undercoating spray. I was dumb and only bought one can at first, just got a couple more today, will finish that tomorrow. Also sprayed the top inside of my trunk lid (also replaced my lift supports because the old ones were shot) but I'm not sure if I wanna do the trunk rear or just use siless on it.

I got a big bag of poly-fil to stuff wherever I need to do I don't have rattles. I picked up some siless vibro 80 mil (foiled). 36sq ft. The idea is to deal with any transient waves I haven't messed with the trim in the cab but I plan to take the door panels off and stick some siless and poly-fil in there too. I read about a 25% rule, basically diminishing returns beyond 25% coverage of an area, placed properly of course (is 3 pads enough? I need to finish looking up the right placement for the siless). I'm looking to get some road/outside noise cut down and also smooth any sharp edges of my sound.

I also picked up a quart of Bondo polyester resin and an 8sq ft sheet of Bondo fiberglass. I plan to use my wheel well and place the speaker above it, facing up. I'm trying to decide if I should angle it at all or go for flat. I also picked up 2x 4ftx4ft 3/4 inch voidless plywood. My wheel well is 23 inches wide and squares against the rear of the car while the further point is 23 inches. It's 8 inches deep. I was thinking of cutting a piece of the plywood to sit flat on the bottom.

Since I'm building it in the car, what should I use to fill voids between that piece of plywood and the coating underneath? I have 2 cans of red Good Stuff expanding foam. I also intend to use the stock spare tire threading hole to secure it down. I would like to be able to remove it if necessary without TOO much hassle so I don't want to bond the plywood to the body unless you think I really should. I also planned on cutting plywood walls. I figured a diagonal on each side and then a flat across the top/far edge, but I'm still very open to changes on that. I was going to then foam the outer gaps and fiberglass the inside of that cavity. But would it be better to leave out the walls, or even the bottom piece as well, and just go for fiberglass inside the wheel well and then bring it up into wood on the bottom of the trunk? I'll try to post a sketch of what I'm envisioning. CT Sounds specs call for 6.5cbft tuned at 28hz with 40sqin port area for their SPL spec. I'm not specifically trying to do SPL but I figured the closer I stick to those specs, the better off I will be. I was thinking of calculating out the height I need to come up off the trunk bottom to meet those specs. Between the rear wheel wells and the back of the trunk is 10 inches on each side. That's the widest point at 50 inches. The wells jut inward about 10 inches I believe, and go up about the same. Just giving rough numbers on these, but I have the actual numbers written down. I'd like to balance the height up off the trunk bottom and the distance needed to go forward. I was thinking of doing a dual square port, with the port openings facing the cab, possibly coming above the wheel wells? I can angle cut the openings. Maybe I'm getting too far in over my head for this build, but would I benefit from using contours in the ports on the sides as compressors? That would allow a shorter port length I think? Or at least cut down on chuffing. I planned to cut the hole just a bit bigger than the sub edges, then cut the exact fit into a 2ftx2ft plywood board, use some sort of filler epoxy or liquid or foam spray between the 2x2 board and the main top board and screw it in using 2 inch spaces just outside the sub ring, from the bottom up so the screws are hidden, and also around the outer edge of the 2x2, with whatever looks right to cover the space between the inner and outer edges. I'd also put a couple in from the top down around the corners. This way I have a partial double baffle but also the sub sits recessed. I can put a piece of acoustically transparent fabric across the gap (like what's used on typical house speakers), possibly with Velcro on the sides so I can have it on or off. Keep dust and such from settling on the cone. I'm not sure what to line the inside of the enclosure with yet. I thought about vinyl floor tiles possibly. Or I could spray coat the inside. I don't know how thick I'd have to lay the fiberglass if I didn't use wood for the bottom side (original plan was to lay wood and then fiberglass over top of it for the bottom of the enclosure). using wood and foaming the gaps between the edges of the body and the enclosure would make the enclosure linear and more controllable and sound better maybe than fiberglassing onto the coating directly? So much to think about.

Oh. Are you familiar with pocket holes for carpentry work? I have a Kreg jig and plenty of proper pocket hole screws for 3/4 ply. Those are pretty damn sturdy joints. I can fill the holes. I do have hardwood plugs for them and can glue them in. I think it would be more sturdy than just screwing along the joints. I also need to plan out bracings and the port walls.

Maybe it's best if I sketch up what I had in mind and you can tell me if it's workable? Rather than asking someone to just design it for me. I don't need to over engineer it but I want it to look great and sound great. I can take constructive criticism that isn't insulting or rude, and I'm willing to accept as much help and input as you're willing to offer. I already have the plywood, the siless, the poly-fil, the undercoating spray, the expanding foam spray, vinyl tiles (don't know about using those), some neoprene (I can buy some additional if needed), the fiberglass mat and resin, and of course all the tools (jigsaw, circular saw, drills, fasteners, wood glue, silicon sealant tubes, etc). I have a router too but would be freehanding it and I need bits. But I have a couple rotary tools with plenty of attachments. I'd like to minimize additional purchases but if it's necessary, I will.

Anyway I appreciate your time and feedback.

 

[Bobbytwonames 5,000+ posts]

I've got just about every measurement for my trunk now it's currently emptied with all panels removed including the trim (not the rear deck). All wires, latch, light, and basically anything that isn't the actual body, is masked, including having pushed the seats down a little to put a drop cloth plastic sheet over the opening, I used vapor barrier tape for that area.

I started the first step I wanted to do which is coating the inside of my trunk with 3m pro rubberized undercoating spray. I was dumb and only bought one can at first, just got a couple more today, will finish that tomorrow. Also sprayed the top inside of my trunk lid (also replaced my lift supports because the old ones were shot) but I'm not sure if I wanna do the trunk rear or just use siless on it.

I got a big bag of poly-fil to stuff wherever I need to do I don't have rattles. I picked up some siless vibro 80 mil (foiled). 36sq ft. The idea is to deal with any transient waves I haven't messed with the trim in the cab but I plan to take the door panels off and stick some siless and poly-fil in there too. I read about a 25% rule, basically diminishing returns beyond 25% coverage of an area, placed properly of course (is 3 pads enough? I need to finish looking up the right placement for the siless). I'm looking to get some road/outside noise cut down and also smooth any sharp edges of my sound.

I also picked up a quart of Bondo polyester resin and an 8sq ft sheet of Bondo fiberglass. I plan to use my wheel well and place the speaker above it, facing up. I'm trying to decide if I should angle it at all or go for flat. I also picked up 2x 4ftx4ft 3/4 inch voidless plywood. My wheel well is 23 inches wide and squares against the rear of the car while the further point is 23 inches. It's 8 inches deep. I was thinking of cutting a piece of the plywood to sit flat on the bottom.

Since I'm building it in the car, what should I use to fill voids between that piece of plywood and the coating underneath? I have 2 cans of red Good Stuff expanding foam. I also intend to use the stock spare tire threading hole to secure it down. I would like to be able to remove it if necessary without TOO much hassle so I don't want to bond the plywood to the body unless you think I really should. I also planned on cutting plywood walls. I figured a diagonal on each side and then a flat across the top/far edge, but I'm still very open to changes on that. I was going to then foam the outer gaps and fiberglass the inside of that cavity. But would it be better to leave out the walls, or even the bottom piece as well, and just go for fiberglass inside the wheel well and then bring it up into wood on the bottom of the trunk? I'll try to post a sketch of what I'm envisioning. CT Sounds specs call for 6.5cbft tuned at 28hz with 40sqin port area for their SPL spec. I'm not specifically trying to do SPL but I figured the closer I stick to those specs, the better off I will be. I was thinking of calculating out the height I need to come up off the trunk bottom to meet those specs. Between the rear wheel wells and the back of the trunk is 10 inches on each side. That's the widest point at 50 inches. The wells jut inward about 10 inches I believe, and go up about the same. Just giving rough numbers on these, but I have the actual numbers written down. I'd like to balance the height up off the trunk bottom and the distance needed to go forward. I was thinking of doing a dual square port, with the port openings facing the cab, possibly coming above the wheel wells? I can angle cut the openings. Maybe I'm getting too far in over my head for this build, but would I benefit from using contours in the ports on the sides as compressors? That would allow a shorter port length I think? Or at least cut down on chuffing. I planned to cut the hole just a bit bigger than the sub edges, then cut the exact fit into a 2ftx2ft plywood board, use some sort of filler epoxy or liquid or foam spray between the 2x2 board and the main top board and screw it in using 2 inch spaces just outside the sub ring, from the bottom up so the screws are hidden, and also around the outer edge of the 2x2, with whatever looks right to cover the space between the inner and outer edges. I'd also put a couple in from the top down around the corners. This way I have a partial double baffle but also the sub sits recessed. I can put a piece of acoustically transparent fabric across the gap (like what's used on typical house speakers), possibly with Velcro on the sides so I can have it on or off. Keep dust and such from settling on the cone. I'm not sure what to line the inside of the enclosure with yet. I thought about vinyl floor tiles possibly. Or I could spray coat the inside. I don't know how thick I'd have to lay the fiberglass if I didn't use wood for the bottom side (original plan was to lay wood and then fiberglass over top of it for the bottom of the enclosure). using wood and foaming the gaps between the edges of the body and the enclosure would make the enclosure linear and more controllable and sound better maybe than fiberglassing onto the coating directly? So much to think about.

Oh. Are you familiar with pocket holes for carpentry work? I have a Kreg jig and plenty of proper pocket hole screws for 3/4 ply. Those are pretty damn sturdy joints. I can fill the holes. I do have hardwood plugs for them and can glue them in. I think it would be more sturdy than just screwing along the joints. I also need to plan out bracings and the port walls.

Maybe it's best if I sketch up what I had in mind and you can tell me if it's workable? Rather than asking someone to just design it for me. I don't need to over engineer it but I want it to look great and sound great. I can take constructive criticism that isn't insulting or rude, and I'm willing to accept as much help and input as you're willing to offer. I already have the plywood, the siless, the poly-fil, the undercoating spray, the expanding foam spray, vinyl tiles (don't know about using those), some neoprene (I can buy some additional if needed), the fiberglass mat and resin, and of course all the tools (jigsaw, circular saw, drills, fasteners, wood glue, silicon sealant tubes, etc). I have a router too but would be freehanding it and I need bits. But I have a couple rotary tools with plenty of attachments. I'd like to minimize additional purchases but if it's necessary, I will.

Anyway I appreciate your time and feedback.

Just a hint. Quit typing such a long drawn out response. You lose pretty much everybody when you do that. Cliff (spelling?) notes if you will. 2 - decent 12's is your best option. Even if you lose a little selling the 18. These guys know their shitt. I don't but they do. Listen to them. Build a great box outside of the car and install it. These guys know how to get you banging. Just follow the recipe that they give you. They are veterans of the game.

 

[TheRadio]

Pick a sub who's air volume needs fit in your vehicle while allowing unobstructed airflow around it.

That way you won't need to overthink every little detail to make it work and you won't need to type up blocks of text big enough to constitute an encyclopedia collection.

Most all members on this site lack the span of attention necessary to get through a quarter of what you typed, especially myself.

 

[TheRadio]

These guys know their shitt. I don't but they do. Listen to them.

About time you offer some useful advice around here

 

[Bobbytwonames 5,000+ posts]

About time you offer some useful advice around here

You're funny noob. Keep trying little boy. Go type another novel.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

A Pair of Heavy Hitter 10s will beat that car to mystery if enough power for the demand is used and the correctly tuned enclosure for the environment. 12s or 10s