Newellzie's practical sq build in a 07 g6

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

Ok I will do that then, and facing up?

Facing up or back or to the side. Experiment with what you think sounds best

Rich V.

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

Ahh ok well the cheaper caps are reasonable, I might consider it early. I even have spare xovers to test them on aha so I hate to bother you guys with a stupid question, but I count 5 on my board, am I right, 1-8.2, 2-10, 1-0.82 and 1-1.5? Am I to look out for somethin, the 10's are smaller then the 8.2, why is this? And some say met one says mpt.
I'm totally game for trying this but clearly I have a lot to learn aha, thanks so much for your advice I seriously appreciate it a lot!

The difference is you're saying between the black and yellow are the differences between mylar and electrolytic capacitors. You can certainly get larger values and smaller packages with electrolytic

Rich V.

 

[Newellzie]

The difference is you're saying between the black and yellow are the differences between mylar and electrolytic capacitors. You can certainly get larger values and smaller packages with electrolytic
Rich V.

Ahh ok, is either better. Or just one costs more? Cause I noticed being able to buy either or while looking at caps, but the just show a generic pic so I didn't know of size difference

Edit: nvm I googled it, I want not Electolytic

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

Ahh ok, is either better. Or just one costs more? Cause I noticed being able to buy either or while looking at caps, but the just show a generic pic so I didn't know of size difference
Edit: nvm I googled it, I want not Electolytic

https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/supreme-caps/mundorf-10.0-mfd-supreme-caps/

https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/supreme-caps/mundorf-8.2-mfd-supreme-caps/

https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/supreme-caps/mundorf-1.5-mfd-supreme-caps/

https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/supreme-caps/mundorf-0.68-mfd-supreme-caps/

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

what i would suggest personally..

https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/supreme-caps/mundorf-0.22-mfd-supreme-caps/

https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/goertz-14-awg/goertz-cf.25-14-awg-copper-foil-inductor/

about 80

https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/supreme-caps/mundorf-10.0-mfd-supreme-caps/

https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/goertz-12-awg/goertz-cf.15-12-awg-copper-foil-inductor/

 

[Newellzie]

what i would suggest personally..https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/supreme-caps/mundorf-0.22-mfd-supreme-caps/

https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/goertz-14-awg/goertz-cf.25-14-awg-copper-foil-inductor/

about 80

https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/supreme-caps/mundorf-10.0-mfd-supreme-caps/

https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/goertz-12-awg/goertz-cf.15-12-awg-copper-foil-inductor/

I follow you except for the 0.22mfd, I have a 0.82, would I have to stack a couple .22's? Also I'm gunna need a bigger Board lol.

Is this a common thing among all companies, cause I was looking at JL Zr's and focal krx3's and the Zr looks like it uses 1 maybe oil it doesn't say but it is bigger. But the krx3's are using def electrolytic cause they are tiny and I forget the amount but have a bigger mfd. even the utopia looks like other then one large one they might idk, I can't get a super clear pic of them so scaling could be off. I'm just comparing cause like these seem to be some of the best speaker systems. Ik there are many others I just was checking out a few. But thanks for your help man and I'll look into maybe stacking and just replacing at least my Electolytic ones cause I think that's the weakest point. Then maybe coils cause there kinda small. And then maybe someday I'll swap out the Mylar.

 

[Newellzie]

Facing up or back or to the side. Experiment with what you think sounds best
Rich V.

I did it...

Way better! Thanks!

 

[TreyE 10+ year member]

Wait so why are you not running your speakers active with the 80prs? It seems like you spent a lot of money on JL products where you could have purchased a lot more for your money. My 05 RE XXX, $350. BNIB FSD 1600D & 85.4,

$450 for sub, $400 for amp. The Silver Flutes & Seas Neo H1396's sound better than any component set I've ever had, ran active, time alignment, properly deadened doors.

Let's say you went with my $150 speakers to go active, then you have a bunch left over to buy real sound deadener, keep your subwoofer and amp if you want but I think you will see a huge benefit from switching to raw speakers using your great head unit you purchased as the crossover to its potential! That's what it's made for!

 

[Newellzie]

Wait so why are you not running your speakers active with the 80prs? It seems like you spent a lot of money on JL products where you could have purchased a lot more for your money. My 05 RE XXX, $350. BNIB FSD 1600D & 85.4,
$450 for sub, $400 for amp. The Silver Flutes & Seas Neo H1396's sound better than any component set I've ever had, ran active, time alignment, properly deadened doors.

Let's say you went with my $150 speakers to go active, then you have a bunch left over to buy real sound deadener, keep your subwoofer and amp if you want but I think you will see a huge benefit from switching to raw speakers using your great head unit you purchased as the crossover to its potential! That's what it's made for!

Have you heard CDT's? No offence man but you get what you pay for with many products, I'll admit JL is a little on the pricy side, but there HD amps are very very good. And again if we are throwing around opinions, then the HD amps are the best class D amps... But that's my opinion. But many other people's as well. Also CDT make amazing speakers. So does seas but $150 dollar speakers better then $650? I doubt that. Plus I got mine for $250 CDN of a guy so I count that as a win... Also I'm not running active cause I'm running rears and until I feel like buying another amp, I'm not going to be an idiot and run tweeters on 2 channels and then my rears and woofers on the rear channels starving my speakers of power by running 2 ohms and only getting 37.5 watts per woofer. But 100 watts too my tweeters. Idk if that makes sense to someone please comment! Also JL w6v3 over RE XXX any day, but again that's my opinion.

So in the end I guess we just have different opinions.

I haven't had the time to SD yet. This is a daily so can live without if for 2 weeks while I do everything I ever wanted to it. And it's a budget build but that doesn't mean that I have to stay under $1000. I'm at about 2 cause I have found really good deals. So not bad not bad. But that's my opinion...

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

CDT is crap. Only thing they got going for them are the vehicle specific stuff.

The rest of your statements. You will figure it out one day

 

[Newellzie]

CDT is crap. Only thing they got going for them are the vehicle specific stuff.
The rest of your statements. You will figure it out one day

Well I was going to go focal or hertz, but I got a deal on these and... Honestly they sound really good. Maybe not the best but I didn't drop 5 grand on morel supremos so I didn't expect the best for $250. Maybe I'll swap for some hertz mile or focal krx2/3's but I think unless you guys have hard evidence it's all just opinions. I have read and heard many GOOD things about CDT from the sq standpoint. Which is what I'm going for. For loud db guys Idc if you like them or not. And maybe some ppl need to tune better, I spend a couple hours tuning. And they sound great! So I say proof is in the pudding not random statements.

Ik you guys have more comments on here, so please don't think I'm trying to be rude or disregard some of your experience. But again proof is needed for me to believe statements

Also the rest of my statements, it would be useful to know exactly why you mean. I believe you just posted that "a good amp is a good amp" in another thread so... Is it I should go active? Or.... More info would be helpful

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

Well I was going to go focal or hertz, but I got a deal on these and... Honestly they sound really good. Maybe not the best but I didn't drop 5 grand on morel supremos so I didn't expect the best for $250. Maybe I'll swap for some hertz mile or focal krx2/3's but I think unless you guys have hard evidence it's all just opinions. I have read and heard many GOOD things about CDT from the sq standpoint. Which is what I'm going for. For loud db guys Idc if you like them or not. And maybe some ppl need to tune better, I spend a couple hours tuning. And they sound great! So I say proof is in the pudding not random statements.
Ik you guys have more comments on here, so please don't think I'm trying to be rude or disregard some of your experience. But again proof is needed for me to believe statements

Also the rest of my statements, it would be useful to know exactly why you mean. I believe you just posted that "a good amp is a good amp" in another thread so... Is it I should go active? Or.... More info would be helpful

Have you ever done any critical listening? Are your ears trained?

If SQ is your goal, yes active. If you don't have processing for the rears, lose them.

Sheffield labs test cd

Cheesky ultimate demo cd

Get them and test your setup. Be real with what you are hearing.

 

[TreyE 10+ year member]

ditch powering the rears, without proper tuning it's probably messing up your staging. Go active on the fronts, I was in your shoes and didn't think active was worth it or that it was hard. Let me tell you it really isn't, and the improvement in transparency, staging, clarity is so improved. You're losing a small amount of power going through those crossovers too.

Do some research, you should find a lot of info about active vs passive.

 

[Newellzie]

Have you ever done any critical listening? Are your ears trained?
If SQ is your goal, yes active. If you don't have processing for the rears, lose them.

Sheffield labs test cd

Cheesky ultimate demo cd

Get them and test your setup. Be real with what you are hearing.

ditch powering the rears, without proper tuning it's probably messing up your staging. Go active on the fronts, I was in your shoes and didn't think active was worth it or that it was hard. Let me tell you it really isn't, and the improvement in transparency, staging, clarity is so improved. You're losing a small amount of power going through those crossovers too.
Do some research, you should find a lot of info about active vs passive.

I have spent time tuning, but I also have tears for my passengers. And yes I travel a lot with friends and family.

I want to go active, no argument there, and I will do it. I don't think it's hard, it's just more amps. But my plan in the future is to get, a bit ten, ms-8 or a arc ps8 proccessor, and a HD 600/4 or another 900/5 and then run active. Run rear fillers, and the 900 would be if I want to re ad my second w6.

But I'm going to address the title. It's a "practical sq build" so I want my passengers to enjoy music, as well as have trunk space. And so I'm taking steps to getting there i.e. Running passive... For now. Slowly building.

I thank you for your input and suggestions tho! And I will try to speed up the process, because I will honestly say, even tho it sounds good, ik it can improve.

 

[TreyE 10+ year member]

Have you ever been to a concert that has speakers behind you?

Similar to what we are saying, the music should be coming from the front. Your passengers will have no problem hearing the music. Use the rear speakers off HU, run the front active. That way you're still adding to the overall sound but the real staging is coming from where it should, in front of you. Something to marinate on, it's your choice obviously but you should look into it and think about it. We aren't just blurting BS. System looks good besides those small things.