New Type X blown? PLEASE help! im so stressed... $%&^#

[brandontw 10+ year member]

it wouldn't have ever worked if it was blown in the first place....
odds are that you probably blew it yourself, when the sub stops getting louder with increased power your running into compression...

no additional output....and a shit load of excess heat which results in burnt coils

well it works now, and its blown...
and when the sub stopped getting louder with more power, it wasnt that loud at all, I mean i know its not the 4-10's im used to, but my freind has a 10" type R with a crappy 600W profile amp and it gets considerably louder than that. Mabye this sub isnt what im looking for?

i have had:

2 Sony p5 12"

2 RF punch 12"s

2 RF power 12"s

4 MTX 8000 10"s

and i have installed many more than that in other peoples cars, and have heard even more than that. and i havent ever hear a 1000W rms sub only get that loud before it blows.

and all of these got WAY louder than this type X did with usually less power. and this type x was in a very small box, so it seems like it should be able to take the power even better

am i doing something horribly wrong with this sub?

My amp isnt rated for bridged @ 2 ohms, but it is rated for 2800rms @ 1ohm @17v but i email the guy and asked what power i would get if i ran it bridged @ 2 ohms and he said i should get about 1500@ 17V...mabye the amp isnt functioning properly running like this? But it seems to me that it should run even better than 1ohm.

and all of these got WAY louder than this type X did with usually less power. an this sub was in a very small box, so it seems like it should be able to take the power even better

mabye i should get a type R?

if i get a new one of these subs, should i get a less powerful amp?

Im just really worried; if i have already seen this subs capabilitys, then i am not impressed at all.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif

 

[squeak9798 5,000+ posts]

Yes, speakers are dumb. They move according to the frequency, amplitude and shape of the signal wave. Therefore, when a signal wave has been squared off, it will have a loss of motion within the cycle. Very basic stuff here.
Again, as Ive stated before, "clipping" an amplifier causes two major problems: output well beyond rated power (2X, 10X, whatever) and the loss of cone motion throughout each cycle. Both of which lead to thermal issues. You even suggest this phenomenon is occuring when you say "100 watts of clipped power = 200 watts of 'clean' power". The reason clipped watts equal more 'clean' watts is due to the loss of cone motion, which leads to the heat issues I discussed earlier in the thread. Otherwise, a watt would equal a watt, clipped or otherwise.

Over on SIN 95Honda did a great test of clipped vs. sine waves. In his tests, he could not prove that a clipped wave of equal power to a pure sine wave caused the driver to fail any sooner. Obviously it is "only one test". But it does take us a step in the direction of disproving the idea that the short little "hanging" at each end of the cycle causes any significat thermal issues over a pure sine wave of the same power, and provides some scientific evidence against it.

 

[audioholic 5,000+ posts]

Over on SIN 95Honda did a great test of clipped vs. sine waves. In his tests, he could not prove that a clipped wave of equal power to a pure sine wave caused the driver to fail any sooner. Obviously it is "only one test". But it does take us a step in the direction of disproving the idea that the short little "hanging" at each end of the cycle causes any significat thermal issues over a pure sine wave of the same power, and provides some scientific evidence against it.

Interesting. It sure flies in the face of common sense, considering a big part of a speaker's cooling process is the cone motion. I'll have to look into that test. Thanks for the info.

 

[NDMstang65 10+ year member]

download or generate a square wave

measure output at whatever wattage

measure output at whatever wattage with a clean signal

post you results/findings //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

i'd do it if i were home...but being here at college limits me of doing any testing or fun shit //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[406er 10+ year member]

well your amp looks like the vis V918XD amp. it puts out 1000watts on a 2ohm load @14 volts. this amp is prefect for you sub. unless u had it wire wrong, or the box its in plain sucks or the gain to high there is no resone this sub should blow or have weak out out.

 

[audioholic 5,000+ posts]

download or generate a square wave
measure output at whatever wattage

measure output at whatever wattage with a clean signal

post you results/findings //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

i'd do it if i were home...but being here at college limits me of doing any testing or fun shit //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

Who are you asking to do this, and why? Speaker output is not what we were discussing here, if you meant me. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif What we've been discussing is heat saturation within the motor assembly. Measuring speaker output gives almost no indication of this situation. Well let me restate that... heat saturation does lead to power compression, but there's no way to determine how much of that would be occuring simply from an SPL comparison test between sub A and sub B.

 

[brandontw 10+ year member]

well your amp looks like the vis V918XD amp. it puts out 1000watts on a 2ohm load @14 volts. this amp is prefect for you sub. unless u had it wire wrong, or the box its in plain sucks or the gain to high there is no resone this sub should blow or have weak out out.

no. The amp is a v800HC, it doesnt have a 2 ohm bridged rating in the specs. but the guy said it would do 1500rms @17v @2ohms X1

Tha box isnt special at all, just sealed, about a cubic foot....//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/eyebrow.gif.fe2c18d8720fe8c7eaed347b21ea05a5.gif

the gain never went above 1/3 and no bass boost

 

[Blazin_Jason 10+ year member]

So any updates? Anything Alpine gonna do or are you sol?

Jason

 

[brandontw 10+ year member]

i sent the sub back to the guy i bought it from, and he is gonna take it back to where he got it, and get a new one. He was gonna send me the new one, but im not sure if i want it or not. I may end up just getting a type R 12, i have heard them, like them, and its cheaper. So i told him to keep the sub and give me my money back, hopefully he will do it. Then i can buy the type r and have a bit of cash left to help buy a new amp.

 

[Spkrman]

Sounds like you bottomed the X out. The sub sounds great up to the point of it bottoming out... at that time its going to sound horrific.

You had one 12 in a teeny sealed box and you expect it to get loud? hrm //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif.

Build/buy a ported box, it'll get a hell of alot louder, and so long as its designed properly, will keep the cone under much better control.

If you want to see a big jump in the SPL department... ported box, type R //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif. Pair of kicker CVR 12's would also work great, just hard to fit into a trunk.

 

[Mr. Opportunist 10+ year member]

your clipping the hell out of it stop turning it off if it doesnt get any louder wtf is the point to keep turning vol. up if it stays the same?

 

[brandontw 10+ year member]

your clipping the hell out of it stop turning it off if it doesnt get any louder wtf is the point to keep turning vol. up if it stays the same?

huh?

 

[brandontw 10+ year member]

This wasnt like my first sub...i know that sealed doesnt get as loud as ported, and this was fine with me. I have gone the LOUD ported route, i had a couple RF's in a ported box i made, then i made the 4-10's setup.

But I have heard many subs in TINY sealed boxes that got plenty loud and dont bottom out! Mabye i was overpowering it..but it still should have got louder i think. Anyway, i think im going to go with a type R and mabye a ported box, but i think im still gonna try sealed first.

 

[bimma85 5,000+ posts]

Sounds like you bottomed the X out. The sub sounds great up to the point of it bottoming out... at that time its going to sound horrific.
You had one 12 in a teeny sealed box and you expect it to get loud? hrm //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif.

Build/buy a ported box, it'll get a hell of alot louder, and so long as its designed properly, will keep the cone under much better control.

If you want to see a big jump in the SPL department... ported box, type R //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif. Pair of kicker CVR 12's would also work great, just hard to fit into a trunk.

x2 on changing up the box. Don't remember exactly but my buddies is in something around 2 cubes tuned to 30 and gets pretty **** loud while sounding incredible.

 

[PepsiFiend69 10+ year member]

5hrs? I give mine about 5 seconds.
Screw breaking things in.

It's a sub, not a virgin.

hahaha. thats my new sig for sure.