New to forums questions about audio setup!

[Jakerrr 10+ year member]

I understand dual coils dropping to half resistance ;P Like I said, I would rather look dumb and ask to verify compared to be dumb and assume.
I need to investigate the alt option, which I haven't had the time to do. They don't make an upgraded alt for my car, so it has to be custom made. A second battery kit is on the table as well, I just have to figure out where i'm going to put it. I already have one yellow top, but there's no room in the engine for a second... so i'll have to squeeze it into the trunk and run wiring for it.

And the cap question, like I said, I had no clue was such a debated topic. When I got my last box(years ago) caps were the rule, not the debate.

Pretty sure you just wire the batt in the trunk directly to the sub amp back there. Should be even simpler than installing a batt up front. pos to pos, neg to ground, just like up front so it's in parallel with the other batt. Someone correct me if I'm wrong but I'm pretty positive it would be the same thing as doing 2 up front in parallel. Thing of the power wire that comes all the way from the front as a really big terminal that both batt +'s are in contact with

When were caps a rule? In my experience caps have not even been a matter of debate for the past half a decade. They are utterly dismissed. Except for in circles of people spending money on L7's in tiny prefab boxes and thinking they just built a sick system

 

[Anatreth]

Pretty sure you just wire the batt in the trunk directly to the sub amp back there. Should be even simpler than installing a batt up front. pos to pos, neg to ground, just like up front so it's in parallel with the other batt. Someone correct me if I'm wrong but I'm pretty positive it would be the same thing as doing 2 up front in parallel. Thing of the power wire that comes all the way from the front as a really big terminal that both batt +'s are in contact with
When were caps a rule? In my experience caps have not even been a matter of debate for the past half a decade. They are utterly dismissed. Except for in circles of people spending money on L7's in tiny prefab boxes and thinking they just built a sick system

Yeah.. so, Like I said in my first post lol.. I got the last set of subs I had from a Circuit City.. They went out of business in the first quarter '09. The box that was stolen was probably mid to late '08. I would say I made my money on them over 7 years haha. I just remember back then that caps were all the rage for anyone who "knew" anything. iirc, the people I heard talking about it at least.

As for the battery, I wasn't sure if you could just wire it with the subs like that. Now, since i'm doing 2/0 for the big three.. should I see if I can manage 2/0 back to the rear of the car, and then run 0ga from the second battery to the amp? And then just take another 2/0 from the battery in the trunk directly to the frame yes?

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

again, just get the setup in your car first and then think about upgrades after doing testing and voltage diagnostics. You might not even need a better alt if your vehicle is already efficient with power.

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

If you're going to wildly assert that the sa-15 was not meant to take over 600w, you're just going to lose credibility man. Jacob under rated them and it has been discussed ad nauseam.

I had this discussion with Jacob when I visited them in their old Troutman facility. They are rated to be indestructible at the power levels at which they are rated. Which implies that with more power you can potentially hurt them. By this rating method they KNOW if you send in a blown woofer that you abused it and no room for debate.

The whole topic of power handling is discussed on here by fools constantly with every nuthugger claiming his brand uses some magic pixie dust that will make its coil hold an electric oven's worth of heat indefinitely. The rubber meets the road where somebody is willing to put their money on the line and offer to warranty these products at whatever claimed power levels... hence the legitimate and reputable companies rate at numbers that are pretty much bulletproof while more sketchy companies just pull a number out of their arse then either go out of business or just weasel out of warranty claims.

 

[Jakerrr 10+ year member]

I had this discussion with Jacob when I visited them in their old Troutman facility. They are rated to be indestructible at the power levels at which they are rated. Which implies that with more power you can potentially hurt them. By this rating method they KNOW if you send in a blown woofer that you abused it and no room for debate.
The whole topic of power handling is discussed on here by fools constantly with every nuthugger claiming his brand uses some magic pixie dust that will make its coil hold an electric oven's worth of heat indefinitely. The rubber meets the road where somebody is willing to put their money on the line and offer to warranty these products at whatever claimed power levels... hence the legitimate and reputable companies rate at numbers that are pretty much bulletproof while more sketchy companies just pull a number out of their arse then either go out of business or just weasel out of warranty claims.

Yeah I agree with you then. Now I'm remembering the context of the conversation of the sa-15's being under rated. I guess I'm a little biased because my sa-15 has seen over 1kw clamped but it wasn't for very long.

 

[Jakerrr 10+ year member]

Yeah.. so, Like I said in my first post lol.. I got the last set of subs I had from a Circuit City.. They went out of business in the first quarter '09. The box that was stolen was probably mid to late '08. I would say I made my money on them over 7 years haha. I just remember back then that caps were all the rage for anyone who "knew" anything. iirc, the people I heard talking about it at least.
As for the battery, I wasn't sure if you could just wire it with the subs like that. Now, since i'm doing 2/0 for the big three.. should I see if I can manage 2/0 back to the rear of the car, and then run 0ga from the second battery to the amp? And then just take another 2/0 from the battery in the trunk directly to the frame yes?

Well if you wire it directly to the amp + and the ground, it is no different than putting it up front in parallel with the battery, simply because the + and - of each battery are touching the same conductors (the power wire fed into the + input on the amplifier, and the - ground/chassis)