New guy, minor problem.

[Kendelrk]

This is my first thread here, so hi all! over the last week i did my own sub, head unit, and amp installation (i have knowledge in the automotive field and knew what i was doing) and installed 2 12" MTX Terminator subs in a prebuilt enclosure and paired it with a boss R1100M amp and pioneer head unit (i knew that the amp didnt put out anywhere near 1100w) but figured it would sound alright for my first system. i drive a large car (2000 crown victoria LX) and figured that it might just be slightly quieter. after working with both my amp and head unit's settings i reached a point where i had a decent amount of bass. Fast forward to this week and i helped a friend install 2 12" Kenwoods, which came out to be a lot louder than mine. To test if it was just my system, we wired his amp and subs into my car and it turned out to be much better. I decided to ditch the MTX subs and my amp and go with 2 Kenwood 12's (3013ps) and an Autotek amp, but i was wondering if the box that came with the MTX subs would be adequate for the Kenwoods, so if anyone has any knowledge as to what would work, it would be greatly appreciated.

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[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

You should have posted this before you did what you did.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

yeah you wasted some dough there buddy.

 

[supra1987]

You said its your first system,well technically now your second system.you should use the box you already have.it should suffice.then look into different enclosures later

 

[Umbra]

As others have said, you should've came here first. If it's not too late to return your purchases or receive credit, I'd advise you go that route.

As far as your question is concerned, you should be okay. The MTX Terminator box is 2.2 cubic feet. The Kenwood's ideal sealed requirement is 1.25 (per sub), but that's close enough to be acceptable. If you keep this setup, I'd recommend getting some silicone caulk and caulk all the seams on the inside of the box to reinforce the seal. You should also stuff it with polyfill (can be bought at a craft store) or pink, non-backed fiberglass insulation (use 1lb/cubic foot, or ~2.2lbs total) this will make the box "appear larger" to the subs (an oversimplification for sure). If the box is divided into two chambers it's important you use the same amount on in each chamber. If you use fiberglass, follow all safety precautions, including gloves and a mask.

What amp do you have? Hopefully it's a good match .

 

[Kendelrk]

I realize i should have came here first, i made quite a mistake. However, it is possible for me to receive credit for the amp, but not for the subs because according to amazon, has "hazardous materials". My amp is a boss R1100M. After researching, im not sure if i should use the box from the terminators due to the fact that the kenwood subwoofers are 4 ohms and there is only one set of connection terminals on the box that is labled 2 ohms. I am open to suggestions for subs and amps, but final product (with a new amp) must be around 260$ shipped.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

I realize i should have came here first, i made quite a mistake. However, it is possible for me to receive credit for the amp, but not for the subs because according to amazon, has "hazardous materials". My amp is a boss R1100M. After researching, im not sure if i should use the box from the terminators due to the fact that the kenwood subwoofers are 4 ohms and there is only one set of connection terminals on the box that is labled 2 ohms. I am open to suggestions for subs and amps, but final product (with a new amp) must be around 260$ shipped.

It doesn't matter what the box says, it only matters how you actually wire the subs. For amps, its best to stay away from boss, pyle, power acoustik, autotek, performance technik, pyramid, ssl, spl, planet audio, crunch, soundstorm, jensen and lower end lanzars excluding opti series. All are garbage junk companies that have high failure rates and their so called 2000-4000 watt amps only do like 200-500 actual watts.

If your on a budget, mbquart(onyx line), hifonics(brutus line), audiopipe, sounstream(TA series), precision power (black ice, ion or phantom series).

There's also many other things that attribute to how loud subs sound. The car plays a big role, a cheap and flimsy car will not be as loud as a stiff and rigid car. A trunk is not as loud as a hatchback or other open-cabin cars. Each car has a different stock factory alternator so different power supplies determine your actual power output. The biggest impact on sound quality and spl is the subwoofer's enclosure. Depending on each subwoofer's EBP, some will work fine in sealed and some will work optimally in a ported enclosure and the design for that enclosure is extremely important.

If your looking for balls to the walls loud, then your not really looking at the right subs/enclosure style anyways. I mean if your trunk can fit it, you can have 4 of those kenwoods on 2000 watts rms and they'll do some work but There's a whole world of loudness beyond typical mainstream subs.