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Car Audio Equipment
Subwoofers
New guy, minor problem.
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<blockquote data-quote="Jeffdachef" data-source="post: 8287331" data-attributes="member: 650438"><p>It doesn't matter what the box says, it only matters how you actually wire the subs. For amps, its best to stay away from boss, pyle, power acoustik, autotek, performance technik, pyramid, ssl, spl, planet audio, crunch, soundstorm, jensen and lower end lanzars excluding opti series. All are garbage junk companies that have high failure rates and their so called 2000-4000 watt amps only do like 200-500 actual watts.</p><p></p><p>If your on a budget, mbquart(onyx line), hifonics(brutus line), audiopipe, sounstream(TA series), precision power (black ice, ion or phantom series).</p><p></p><p>There's also many other things that attribute to how loud subs sound. The car plays a big role, a cheap and flimsy car will not be as loud as a stiff and rigid car. A trunk is not as loud as a hatchback or other open-cabin cars. Each car has a different stock factory alternator so different power supplies determine your actual power output. The biggest impact on sound quality and spl is the subwoofer's enclosure. Depending on each subwoofer's EBP, some will work fine in sealed and some will work optimally in a ported enclosure and the design for that enclosure is extremely important.</p><p></p><p>If your looking for balls to the walls loud, then your not really looking at the right subs/enclosure style anyways. I mean if your trunk can fit it, you can have 4 of those kenwoods on 2000 watts rms and they'll do some work but There's a whole world of loudness beyond typical mainstream subs.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Jeffdachef, post: 8287331, member: 650438"] It doesn't matter what the box says, it only matters how you actually wire the subs. For amps, its best to stay away from boss, pyle, power acoustik, autotek, performance technik, pyramid, ssl, spl, planet audio, crunch, soundstorm, jensen and lower end lanzars excluding opti series. All are garbage junk companies that have high failure rates and their so called 2000-4000 watt amps only do like 200-500 actual watts. If your on a budget, mbquart(onyx line), hifonics(brutus line), audiopipe, sounstream(TA series), precision power (black ice, ion or phantom series). There's also many other things that attribute to how loud subs sound. The car plays a big role, a cheap and flimsy car will not be as loud as a stiff and rigid car. A trunk is not as loud as a hatchback or other open-cabin cars. Each car has a different stock factory alternator so different power supplies determine your actual power output. The biggest impact on sound quality and spl is the subwoofer's enclosure. Depending on each subwoofer's EBP, some will work fine in sealed and some will work optimally in a ported enclosure and the design for that enclosure is extremely important. If your looking for balls to the walls loud, then your not really looking at the right subs/enclosure style anyways. I mean if your trunk can fit it, you can have 4 of those kenwoods on 2000 watts rms and they'll do some work but There's a whole world of loudness beyond typical mainstream subs. [/QUOTE]
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Car Audio Equipment
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New guy, minor problem.
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