Menu
Forum
General Car Audio
Subwoofers
Speakers
Amplifiers
Head Units
Car Audio Build Logs
Wiring, Electrical and Installation
Enclosure Design & Construction
Car Audio Classifieds
Home Audio
Off-topic Discussion
The Lounge
What's new
Search forums
Gallery
New media
New comments
Search media
Members
Registered members
Current visitors
Classifieds Member Feedback
SHOP
Shop Head Units
Shop Amplifiers
Shop Speakers
Shop Subwoofers
Shop eBay Car Audio
Log in / Register
Forum
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Log in / Join
What’s new
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
General Car Audio
Subwoofers
Speakers
Amplifiers
Head Units
Car Audio Build Logs
Wiring, Electrical and Installation
Enclosure Design & Construction
Car Audio Classifieds
Home Audio
Off-topic Discussion
The Lounge
What's new
Search forums
Menu
Reply to thread
Forum
Car Audio Discussion
Subwoofers
New guy, minor problem.
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Message
<blockquote data-quote="Jeffdachef" data-source="post: 8287331" data-attributes="member: 650438"><p>It doesn't matter what the box says, it only matters how you actually wire the subs. For amps, its best to stay away from boss, pyle, power acoustik, autotek, performance technik, pyramid, ssl, spl, planet audio, crunch, soundstorm, jensen and lower end lanzars excluding opti series. All are garbage junk companies that have high failure rates and their so called 2000-4000 watt amps only do like 200-500 actual watts.</p><p></p><p>If your on a budget, mbquart(onyx line), hifonics(brutus line), audiopipe, sounstream(TA series), precision power (black ice, ion or phantom series).</p><p></p><p>There's also many other things that attribute to how loud subs sound. The car plays a big role, a cheap and flimsy car will not be as loud as a stiff and rigid car. A trunk is not as loud as a hatchback or other open-cabin cars. Each car has a different stock factory alternator so different power supplies determine your actual power output. The biggest impact on sound quality and spl is the subwoofer's enclosure. Depending on each subwoofer's EBP, some will work fine in sealed and some will work optimally in a ported enclosure and the design for that enclosure is extremely important.</p><p></p><p>If your looking for balls to the walls loud, then your not really looking at the right subs/enclosure style anyways. I mean if your trunk can fit it, you can have 4 of those kenwoods on 2000 watts rms and they'll do some work but There's a whole world of loudness beyond typical mainstream subs.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Jeffdachef, post: 8287331, member: 650438"] It doesn't matter what the box says, it only matters how you actually wire the subs. For amps, its best to stay away from boss, pyle, power acoustik, autotek, performance technik, pyramid, ssl, spl, planet audio, crunch, soundstorm, jensen and lower end lanzars excluding opti series. All are garbage junk companies that have high failure rates and their so called 2000-4000 watt amps only do like 200-500 actual watts. If your on a budget, mbquart(onyx line), hifonics(brutus line), audiopipe, sounstream(TA series), precision power (black ice, ion or phantom series). There's also many other things that attribute to how loud subs sound. The car plays a big role, a cheap and flimsy car will not be as loud as a stiff and rigid car. A trunk is not as loud as a hatchback or other open-cabin cars. Each car has a different stock factory alternator so different power supplies determine your actual power output. The biggest impact on sound quality and spl is the subwoofer's enclosure. Depending on each subwoofer's EBP, some will work fine in sealed and some will work optimally in a ported enclosure and the design for that enclosure is extremely important. If your looking for balls to the walls loud, then your not really looking at the right subs/enclosure style anyways. I mean if your trunk can fit it, you can have 4 of those kenwoods on 2000 watts rms and they'll do some work but There's a whole world of loudness beyond typical mainstream subs. [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forum
Car Audio Discussion
Subwoofers
New guy, minor problem.
Top
Menu
What's new
Forum list