New Build Advise for an Old Guy just starting Out


Junket0420

CarAudio.com Newbie
Feb 22, 2021
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First off as the title suggests I'm new to doing any builds of my own. I've loved bass and car audio since I can remember, started DJ'ing underground raves and clubs when I was 13 but never had the money to do anything like that for myself. Now I'm 41, have a family I support but also have a great Job in IT I started 4 years ago and can put some money into the car audio now. Plus the wife appreciates the fascets of the building/installation process and is very supportive of it (my wife is an amazing woman).

So I currently have a meager system in my mid size SUV. Boss BV755B head unit (I know but was on a budget and it's serving it's purpose lol), Front doors (about to put them in) Skar VX200-ST | 1.8" Bullet Super Tweeters and Skar FSX65 6.5" Mid-Range Loudspeaker, 1 each in each door. Backdoors, Skar TX4 4" 120 Watt Elite Coaxial Speakers (just finished modding these in the doors), Kenwood KFC-1666S 6.5' Coaxials, again 1 each in each door. Started with a Rockville RXD-M3 Amp for my subwoofer and eventually upgraded to VFL Class D Monoblock Stealth Max 3000 Watts Amp. Finally my subwoofer is a 10" American Bass XFL Dual 2 Ohm VC (this is the 1500rms/3000peak version), in a prefab Rockville RQB10HP. Again, my first build of any kind. It's been 20 years since I knew what was good or out there. Allot has changed and some things drastically.

I had a friend in 2001 who had 2x 15' Kicker comps in his blazer, no special box, that just hit your chest and throat like mad lol. Want to get some of that feeling (not completely though lol). I'm still amazed at the XFL 10's performance but doesn't quite hit the lows like I want and I also want a little more punch in the chest like I said earlier. At first I thought of upgrading to a 12 and keep it around $300. What I found in my research that fit the parameters are Soundqubed HDX3, Resiliant Sounds Gold series, SSA Icon, AB XFL or HD (but thier Fs is kinda high and worry about not getting those lows), and the Skar VFX. I don't want to go any higher in watts for the sub than I already have and actually a little lower would be nice so I can put 60-100 rms to each of the front doors. Obviously, a custom box will be in order as well. I also wondered if bumping the size up to 15" instead of 12 is do-able, I have the cargo room. Or would it be better to go 2x 12 that total around 1500 watts rms be the best route?
 

SlugButter

CarAudio.com Veteran
Nov 5, 2019
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arizona
A custom subwoofer box for your current sub would be the biggest upgrade to bass. Prefab boxes never work well. It would sound like a whole new sub in a proper enclosure.
 

SlugButter

CarAudio.com Veteran
Nov 5, 2019
880
295
arizona
I would keep your sub. It’s the best thing you have out of all your equipment. IMO. I would do a custom box for your sub and spend the money to get a different head unit instead of on new subs. That Boss head unit will ruin any nice work you do on anything else. Good sound always starts at the source.
 
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Kickstand

CarAudio.com Well Known
Jan 1, 2021
333
86
Maple Ridge
I can't seem to find any stats on it but I'm sure that Boss HU is only putting out 2 volts to the pre outs
Get a better box and upgrade your HU to something with 4-5 volt pre outs and that sub should pound
 

Junket0420

CarAudio.com Newbie
Feb 22, 2021
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  • #5
I would keep your sub. It’s the best thing you have out of all your equipment. IMO. I would do a custom box for your sub and spend the money to get a different head unit instead of on new subs. That Boss head unit will ruin any nice work you do on anything else. Good sound always starts at the source.
Really? Ok, dont think I need to go to 12” XFL? Any advice on what to request or certain specs i should provide when either hetting it made online or plans/cut sheets for me to build myself?

One of the issues I’m finding with this is getting the correct parameters for my version of the XFL. You’ll almost always see the 1k watt rms version and mine is 1.5k watts rms. I imagine that changes some things.
 

Junket0420

CarAudio.com Newbie
Feb 22, 2021
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  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #6
I can't seem to find any stats on it but I'm sure that Boss HU is only putting out 2 volts to the pre outs
Get a better box and upgrade your HU to something with 4-5 volt pre outs and that sub should pound
Any suggestions? I just do t want to spend $300 on a HU if I can avoid it.
 

Squirrel!

Curmudgeon
Feb 26, 2020
333
56
Ohio
The Boss is a decent HU in my opinion. Never used one with an amp, but the internals on mine did a pretty decent job with the factory speakers. Nothing to write home about, but if you go into it not expecting the best, you won't be disappointed.
 

Kickstand

CarAudio.com Well Known
Jan 1, 2021
333
86
Maple Ridge
If your looking to build a box yourself there is a guy on here I believe his name is Buck.
Look in the Box building section I'm sure you will find one of his posts. In his signature are his contact details
He will design and send you blue prints for a box. I can't remember how much he charged but I know it was really reasonable.
All you have to do is give him some measurements, what equipment your using and what not and he should be able to give you plans for a great box.

If you don't want to spend the cash on a new HU right now a cheaper solution is to get a line driver
It will boost the voltage to your signal wires and shouldn't cost much more than $50
There easy to install as well.
I personally don't like using them but that's me being stubborn
It will get the job done but you should look into a new HU if you want to continue to build on what you have.
Trust me you will, It's never loud enough or clear enough and just when you think it is they come out with something new
 

Bobbytwonames

Trigger Man!
Aug 28, 2018
4,448
181
Vegas
First off as the title suggests I'm new to doing any builds of my own. I've loved bass and car audio since I can remember, started DJ'ing underground raves and clubs when I was 13 but never had the money to do anything like that for myself. Now I'm 41, have a family I support but also have a great Job in IT I started 4 years ago and can put some money into the car audio now. Plus the wife appreciates the fascets of the building/installation process and is very supportive of it (my wife is an amazing woman).

So I currently have a meager system in my mid size SUV. Boss BV755B head unit (I know but was on a budget and it's serving it's purpose lol), Front doors (about to put them in) Skar VX200-ST | 1.8" Bullet Super Tweeters and Skar FSX65 6.5" Mid-Range Loudspeaker, 1 each in each door. Backdoors, Skar TX4 4" 120 Watt Elite Coaxial Speakers (just finished modding these in the doors), Kenwood KFC-1666S 6.5' Coaxials, again 1 each in each door. Started with a Rockville RXD-M3 Amp for my subwoofer and eventually upgraded to VFL Class D Monoblock Stealth Max 3000 Watts Amp. Finally my subwoofer is a 10" American Bass XFL Dual 2 Ohm VC (this is the 1500rms/3000peak version), in a prefab Rockville RQB10HP. Again, my first build of any kind. It's been 20 years since I knew what was good or out there. Allot has changed and some things drastically.

I had a friend in 2001 who had 2x 15' Kicker comps in his blazer, no special box, that just hit your chest and throat like mad lol. Want to get some of that feeling (not completely though lol). I'm still amazed at the XFL 10's performance but doesn't quite hit the lows like I want and I also want a little more punch in the chest like I said earlier. At first I thought of upgrading to a 12 and keep it around $300. What I found in my research that fit the parameters are Soundqubed HDX3, Resiliant Sounds Gold series, SSA Icon, AB XFL or HD (but thier Fs is kinda high and worry about not getting those lows), and the Skar VFX. I don't want to go any higher in watts for the sub than I already have and actually a little lower would be nice so I can put 60-100 rms to each of the front doors. Obviously, a custom box will be in order as well. I also wondered if bumping the size up to 15" instead of 12 is do-able, I have the cargo room. Or would it be better to go 2x 12 that total around 1500 watts rms be the best route?
I would suggest that you sell your 10" and get two XFL 1244's and run them at 1 ohm with your current amp in a custom box tuned to 32-35 hz. I think that would give you the bass that you are looking for.
 

Junket0420

CarAudio.com Newbie
Feb 22, 2021
8
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  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #11
If your looking to build a box yourself there is a guy on here I believe his name is Buck.
Look in the Box building section I'm sure you will find one of his posts. In his signature are his contact details
He will design and send you blue prints for a box. I can't remember how much he charged but I know it was really reasonable.
All you have to do is give him some measurements, what equipment your using and what not and he should be able to give you plans for a great box.

If you don't want to spend the cash on a new HU right now a cheaper solution is to get a line driver
It will boost the voltage to your signal wires and shouldn't cost much more than $50
There easy to install as well.
I personally don't like using them but that's me being stubborn
It will get the job done but you should look into a new HU if you want to continue to build on what you have.
Trust me you will, It's never loud enough or clear enough and just when you think it is they come out with something new
Ok cool, thanks broski. I’ll take a look at both.
 

SlugButter

CarAudio.com Veteran
Nov 5, 2019
880
295
arizona
Really? Ok, dont think I need to go to 12” XFL? Any advice on what to request or certain specs i should provide when either hetting it made online or plans/cut sheets for me to build myself?

One of the issues I’m finding with this is getting the correct parameters for my version of the XFL. You’ll almost always see the 1k watt rms version and mine is 1.5k watts rms. I imagine that changes some things.
I don’t think you’ve heard what that sub can do in a proper custom ported box. If you can power that sub with a strong 1500 watts and have it in a custom ported box, it will get downright nasty. Whatever sub you go with, just do a good box for it. A good box will make a 30$ sub sound great. A bad box will make a 500$ sub sound like 30$. The boss head unit would be my second upgrade, after a new box. Any head unit with 4+ volt preouts and an EQ would be decent. My third upgrade, if I had your equipment, would be to sound deaden your doors. With all the extra bass you will have from your custom box, you will need to get some more midbass to keep up with the subs. Sound deadener will help any speaker sound better and get louder in your doors. First time I used deadener in my doors, I was shocked at how much better my door speakers sounded. I had planned on new door speakers, but with deadener, I kept with those speakers for 5 years. Big difference. After you get a good install finished, you can start swapping out whatever equipment you want with good results.
 
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hispls

CarAudio.com Veteran
5,000+ posts
10+ year member
Sep 10, 2009
11,661
573
Central Maine
I just don't see a single 10" pressurizing a large cabin all that much. That said if you're not willing to sacrifice some cargo area and build/buy a properly designed box or are going to wind up cheaping out on a larger sub it may not be a big improvement.

I'd say figure out precisely how much volume you are willing to give up and get the largest cone area single sub that will function properly in that airspace. The head unit is definitely a weak link but I get the impression that OP wouldn't be satisfied with his single 10 even in a "perfect" box.

There's no replacement for displacement.
 

LsGuy

Manila Gorilla
Sep 11, 2020
408
108
Ohio
I just don't see a single 10" pressurizing a large cabin all that much. That said if you're not willing to sacrifice some cargo area and build/buy a properly designed box or are going to wind up cheaping out on a larger sub it may not be a big improvement.

I'd say figure out precisely how much volume you are willing to give up and get the largest cone area single sub that will function properly in that airspace. The head unit is definitely a weak link but I get the impression that OP wouldn't be satisfied with his single 10 even in a "perfect" box.

There's no replacement for displacement.
Boost
 

Junket0420

CarAudio.com Newbie
Feb 22, 2021
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  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #15
I would suggest that you sell your 10" and get two XFL 1244's and run them at 1 ohm with your current amp in a custom box retuned to 32-35 hz. I think that would give you the bass that you are looking for.
I’m already running right 1 10 at 1 ohmo. To the yeeter yyeeyeyeeyyee and the Sundown efgufpm of k
I just don't see a single 10" pressurizing a large cabin all that much. That said if you're not willing to sacrifice some cargo area and build/buy a properly designed box or are going to wind up cheaping out on a larger sub it may not be a big improvement.

I'd say figure out precisely how much volume you are willing to give up and get the largest cone area single sub that will function properly in that airspace. The head unit is definitely a weak link but I get the impression that OP wouldn't be satisfied with his single 10 even in a "perfect" box.

There's no replacement for displacement.
In my post, I did say space wasn't an issue. Sorry if I wasn't clear enough. I plan on a custom box next but I'm showing the suggested from AB is 1-1.5 sqft. I was thinking the same on the size and bumping up to a 12 XFL in a custom box. But if I was able to get a custom box for a 12, which of the 12s I mentioned in the OP would you choose? (that's a question for anyone who has an opinion)
 

LsGuy

Manila Gorilla
Sep 11, 2020
408
108
Ohio
I’m already running right 1 10 at 1 ohmo. To the yeeter yyeeyeyeeyyee and the Sundown efgufpm of k

In my post, I did say space wasn't an issue. Sorry if I wasn't clear enough. I plan on a custom box next but I'm showing the suggested from AB is 1-1.5 sqft. I was thinking the same on the size and bumping up to a 12 XFL in a custom box. But if I was able to get a custom box for a 12, which of the 12s I mentioned in the OP would you choose? (that's a question for anyone who has an opinion)
 

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Junket0420

CarAudio.com Newbie
Feb 22, 2021
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  • #17
I don’t think you’ve heard what that sub can do in a proper custom ported box. If you can power that sub with a strong 1500 watts and have it in a custom ported box, it will get downright nasty.
I've wondered if that was the case. Also, should I go ported or slot ported?
The boss head unit would be my second upgrade, after a new box. Any head unit with 4+ volt preouts and an EQ would be decent.
Again, I'm new at this so how exactly does this help? Does keep the amp from having to work as hard or something? Sorry, I like to know every aspect of this and how it works. A good understanding on all aspects if possible.
My third upgrade, if I had your equipment, would be to sound deaden your doors. With all the extra bass you will have from your custom box, you will need to get some more midbass to keep up with the subs.
I've been researching this a lot as well and planned o doing it soon. Especially the rear cargo door, it's a rattlin basteed.[/QUOTE]
 

Junket0420

CarAudio.com Newbie
Feb 22, 2021
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  • #18
Think you misread, I said between the subs I listed in the OP.
 

SlugButter

CarAudio.com Veteran
Nov 5, 2019
880
295
arizona
I've wondered if that was the case. Also, should I go ported or slot ported?

Again, I'm new at this so how exactly does this help? Does keep the amp from having to work as hard or something? Sorry, I like to know every aspect of this and how it works. A good understanding on all aspects if possible.

I've been researching this a lot as well and planned o doing it soon. Especially the rear cargo door, it's a rattlin basteed.
[/QUOTE]
Having higher voltage preouts does help the amps receive a stronger signal. The one thing that I’ve found is that you can get good results with budget equipment, if it’s installed properly, but you can’t skimp too much on the head unit. It needs to have decent preouts and an EQ at minimum. Crossovers in the head unit are kinda nice also. Some of the cheaper pioneers, kenwoods and alpines have these things. I’m a fan of pioneer myself.
 

Bobbytwonames

Trigger Man!
Aug 28, 2018
4,448
181
Vegas
Really? Ok, dont think I need to go to 12” XFL? Any advice on what to request or certain specs i should provide when either hetting it made online or plans/cut sheets for me to build myself?

One of the issues I’m finding with this is getting the correct parameters for my version of the XFL. You’ll almost always see the 1k watt rms version and mine is 1.5k watts rms. I imagine that changes some things.
At minimum, you should add another 10" XFL and a custom built box.
 

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