Are you sure you are wired to 4 ohms and not 1 ohm? If you are at 1 ohm that would explain the amp getting hot so fast. It will also die a quick death if you continue to run it that way.Only my enclosures changed, not set up, and I think that the amp gets even more hot for some reason. I haven't even pushed them that hard yet.
I connected Sub 1 Positive and Negative to Sub 2 Positive and Negative and connected to amp. they are both 4 Ohm DVC. Wouldn't that make it to 2 Ohms?Are you sure you are wired to 4 ohms and not 1 ohm? If you are at 1 ohm that would explain the amp getting hot so fast. It will also die a quick death if you continue to run it that way.
You cannot get a 2 ohm load with 2 dvc 4s. You can only 1,4, or 16 ohms.I connected Sub 1 Positive and Negative to Sub 2 Positive and Negative and connected to amp. they are both 4 Ohm DVC. Wouldn't that make it to 2 Ohms?
Dmm will resolve this question real quick. They are very inexpensive if you don't have one.What Ohm would I be at with those connections?
Amps don't "naturally" run hot man. Low voltage and or unstable ohm loads cause excessive heat. Running at 13.8 is quite a bit above resting voltage and wont cause an amp to run hot. Now if this said amp is where there isnt any decent airflow to cool it you can run external fans but by no means should that be the norm.The amp is rated for 450rms at a battery voltage of 14.4 volts. If you have a stick battery you only get 13.8. Manufacturers use 14.4 to boost their amp ratings a bit that's why I was giving you lower more realistic numbers. Since I'm not there and I can't see your wiring I can only assume the amp is getting hot because it is either drawing too much power, the ohms are wrong and are too low, and even if you were only pulling the max rms at the lowest allowed ohm bridged, the amp will naturally run hot. You can't prevent that. That's why when you use an amp to its max potential usually you must cool them down with external fans.
What are the subs switched at? 2 or 8 ohm? Also, post a pic of your wiring.
Basically wired like this diagram, but with one terminal post eachThe amp is rated for 450rms at a battery voltage of 14.4 volts. If you have a stock battery you only get 13.8. Manufacturers use 14.4 to boost their amp ratings a bit that's why I was giving you lower more realistic numbers. Since I'm not there and I can't see your wiring I can only assume the amp is getting hot because it is either drawing too much power, the ohms are wrong and are too low, and even if you were only pulling the max rms at the lowest allowed ohm bridged, the amp will naturally run hot. You can't prevent that. That's why when you use an amp to its max potential usually you must cool them down with external fans.
What are the subs switched at? 2 or 8 ohm? Also, post a pic of your wiring.
When you check the gain with the dmm, you're going to want to turn your headunit up to 3/4 of the way and turn the gain up until you get 56.5. This will give you about 800 watts rms if you successfully bridge the amp at 4 ohms. I know it says it can do 900 but like I said that's at 14.4 volts which is exaggerated so you want to be conservative and not fry an amp like yours. They're tough but overheating is a killer that can be avoided.
So you just clip the amps you run to the point you can't even touch them? Not normal in any sense. Voltage to the amp has everything to do with running the amp correctly. Low voltage will cause excessive heat and eventual failure. Ive never roasted an amp nor run them hot enough to fry an egg on. Smh.It actually is normal? The battery voltage has nothing to do with it. When you use an amp at its lowest ohm setting, especially when bridging it and then ask it to deliver it's full potential, it's going to run hot no matter where it is. Will it cause it to overheat and shut off? Not always. I've had amps that get way too hot to touch but they never went into protect mode and lasted for years.