New Box Wiring

[BigBearAl]

Only my enclosures changed, not set up, and I think that the amp gets even more hot for some reason. I haven't even pushed them that hard yet.

 

[joom 10+ year member]

Only my enclosures changed, not set up, and I think that the amp gets even more hot for some reason. I haven't even pushed them that hard yet.

Are you sure you are wired to 4 ohms and not 1 ohm? If you are at 1 ohm that would explain the amp getting hot so fast. It will also die a quick death if you continue to run it that way.

 

[jRi0T68]

It may be time to bust out a DMM and measure resistances. Then you'll know for sure what it's wired at.

While you're at it, double check that you have a proper ground using the DMM.

It's better to measure and know that you're running it safely, than to assume that it is.

 

[BigBearAl]

Are you sure you are wired to 4 ohms and not 1 ohm? If you are at 1 ohm that would explain the amp getting hot so fast. It will also die a quick death if you continue to run it that way.

I connected Sub 1 Positive and Negative to Sub 2 Positive and Negative and connected to amp. they are both 4 Ohm DVC. Wouldn't that make it to 2 Ohms?

 

[joom 10+ year member]

I connected Sub 1 Positive and Negative to Sub 2 Positive and Negative and connected to amp. they are both 4 Ohm DVC. Wouldn't that make it to 2 Ohms?

You cannot get a 2 ohm load with 2 dvc 4s. You can only 1,4, or 16 ohms.

 

[BigBearAl]

You cannot get a 2 ohm load with 2 dvc 4s. You can only 1,4, or 16 ohms.

What Ohm would I be at with those connections?

 

[CSCStang]

What Ohm would I be at with those connections?

Dmm will resolve this question real quick. They are very inexpensive if you don't have one.

 

[joom 10+ year member]

Take a looking at k_h_a's first post. Option #2 . Substitute 4 ohm for 2 ohm. That will give you a 4 ohm load. That is what your looking for.

 

[BigBearAl]

Take a looking at k_h_a's first post. Option #2 . Substitute 4 ohm for 2 ohm. That will give you a 4 ohm load. That is what your looking for.

I used k_h_a's second post, looks like it gave me 4 Ohms. I will use DMM to clarify.

 

[paulmarsh1222]

The amp is rated for 450rms at a battery voltage of 14.4 volts. If you have a stock battery you only get 13.8. Manufacturers use 14.4 to boost their amp ratings a bit that's why I was giving you lower more realistic numbers. Since I'm not there and I can't see your wiring I can only assume the amp is getting hot because it is either drawing too much power, the ohms are wrong and are too low, and even if you were only pulling the max rms at the lowest allowed ohm bridged, the amp will naturally run hot. You can't prevent that. That's why when you use an amp to its max potential usually you must cool them down with external fans.

What are the subs switched at? 2 or 8 ohm? Also, post a pic of your wiring.

When you check the gain with the dmm, you're going to want to turn your headunit up to 3/4 of the way and turn the gain up until you get 56.5. This will give you about 800 watts rms if you successfully bridge the amp at 4 ohms. I know it says it can do 900 but like I said that's at 14.4 volts which is exaggerated so you want to be conservative and not fry an amp like yours. They're tough but overheating is a killer that can be avoided.

 

[CSCStang]

The amp is rated for 450rms at a battery voltage of 14.4 volts. If you have a stick battery you only get 13.8. Manufacturers use 14.4 to boost their amp ratings a bit that's why I was giving you lower more realistic numbers. Since I'm not there and I can't see your wiring I can only assume the amp is getting hot because it is either drawing too much power, the ohms are wrong and are too low, and even if you were only pulling the max rms at the lowest allowed ohm bridged, the amp will naturally run hot. You can't prevent that. That's why when you use an amp to its max potential usually you must cool them down with external fans.
What are the subs switched at? 2 or 8 ohm? Also, post a pic of your wiring.

Amps don't "naturally" run hot man. Low voltage and or unstable ohm loads cause excessive heat. Running at 13.8 is quite a bit above resting voltage and wont cause an amp to run hot. Now if this said amp is where there isnt any decent airflow to cool it you can run external fans but by no means should that be the norm.

 

[paulmarsh1222]

It actually is normal? The battery voltage has nothing to do with it. When you use an amp at its lowest ohm setting, especially when bridging it and then ask it to deliver it's full potential, it's going to run hot no matter where it is. Will it cause it to overheat and shut off? Not always. I've had amps that get way too hot to touch but they never went into protect mode and lasted for years.

 

[BigBearAl]

The amp is rated for 450rms at a battery voltage of 14.4 volts. If you have a stock battery you only get 13.8. Manufacturers use 14.4 to boost their amp ratings a bit that's why I was giving you lower more realistic numbers. Since I'm not there and I can't see your wiring I can only assume the amp is getting hot because it is either drawing too much power, the ohms are wrong and are too low, and even if you were only pulling the max rms at the lowest allowed ohm bridged, the amp will naturally run hot. You can't prevent that. That's why when you use an amp to its max potential usually you must cool them down with external fans.
What are the subs switched at? 2 or 8 ohm? Also, post a pic of your wiring.

When you check the gain with the dmm, you're going to want to turn your headunit up to 3/4 of the way and turn the gain up until you get 56.5. This will give you about 800 watts rms if you successfully bridge the amp at 4 ohms. I know it says it can do 900 but like I said that's at 14.4 volts which is exaggerated so you want to be conservative and not fry an amp like yours. They're tough but overheating is a killer that can be avoided.

Basically wired like this diagram, but with one terminal post each

(2 Ohm Replaced with 4 Ohm)

Also, no external fans running and is located in trunk of sedan behind speaker box.

UPDATE: Earlier I had them at a high volume level while I drove with back seats and windows down for air flow. Amp was not very hot, rather than too hot to touch without anything down.

 

[CSCStang]

It actually is normal? The battery voltage has nothing to do with it. When you use an amp at its lowest ohm setting, especially when bridging it and then ask it to deliver it's full potential, it's going to run hot no matter where it is. Will it cause it to overheat and shut off? Not always. I've had amps that get way too hot to touch but they never went into protect mode and lasted for years.

So you just clip the amps you run to the point you can't even touch them? Not normal in any sense. Voltage to the amp has everything to do with running the amp correctly. Low voltage will cause excessive heat and eventual failure. Ive never roasted an amp nor run them hot enough to fry an egg on. Smh.

 

[paulmarsh1222]

Nothing was clipped? I use an o scope for everything. Headunit included. You're taking an electronic device and running it to its max. I've never roasted an amp either. Why do so many professionals build cooling racks if it's not normal for an amp to get hot? I mean really. I don't care if you only use half of your amps potential and it runs cool. I'm simply talking about running an amplifier to its max. It gets hot.