Need some Mid-bass recommendations.

My post is in reponse to matching the sonic qualities of the speakers. A lot of people just rattle off Focal this, Dynaudio that because they are top of the line and they are incredible when properly used. However, throwing a Dynaudio speaker in the middle of XYZ isn't necessarily going to fix your problem and in most systems it will probably make it worse as far as quality is concerned. Most times you add a speaker it becomes harder to balance the sound. Ultimately it is personal preference, but matching similarly powered speakers with prematched frequency curves is good advice.

1. Just because its low freq does not mean you just pick any driver and it will do. You need to do some more reading and listening before making that kind of statement.
My suggestion was to either use a speaker from the same manufactoring line designed to do what he wants so you have much hassle in trying to figure out a good speaker to match his existing set (as in power handling, frequency reponse, etc) or if you are crossing over at lower frequencies (midbass means different things to different people) use one of the already mentioned speakers that others had posted. The ones posted by others above are IMO reasonable Midbass speakers.
Less detail has to be paid to matching in sub 1khz as your ears can't distinguish direction easily below 1000hz and our hearing is really tuned to detail at 2000-5000hz. The closer you get to 20hz the less detail you can hear and thus the less important correct balancing and matching becomes. Doesn't mean it still isn't important (at least to some), but it does mean it isn't as crucial as the critical hearing range.

Also as many of us haven't heard the hundreds that are out there and a car shop is no place to audition a set of speakers... they need to be installed in a car before you can really get a sense of a speaker. Even then lspeaker placement, interior design, etc all contribute to how a speaker will ultimately sound.

2. It does not matter what two driver you put together they do not need to be from the same manufacture to achieve excellent sound.
Agreed on the excellent sound part, but the closer you get to where us humans ears are dialed in and can hear detail the better off you are going to be matching frequency reponse curves from one speaker to another. It is unlikely that a set of Focals and Dynaudio playing the same midbass/midrange frequencies in car are going to sound as good as if you went with Dynaudios to begin with and had no overlap. Speaker manufactorers generally tend to build their speakers to match and high end ones spend a lot of time doing just that. Doesn't mean you can't do it yourself, doesn't mean you can't improve on their design, but it is easier to simply go with the flow and get a matching set. It will likely upgrade his midbass, match his power handling on the other speakers and it will also likely be closer to his budget. If he has XYZ crap speakers throwing a Dynaudio in it isn't going to help much. If he has say RF speakers, adding a similar RF midbass speaker from the same line is going to do exactly what he asked. Could there be a better speaker out there for him, sure. However, you really aren't going to know unless you heard his system and my advice likely won't be wasting his money putting a high quality speaker in the middle of a midrange component set or vice-versa.
3. Does not matter where you are crossing them at you have to match the drivers based on several things. I am not going to go in to it if someone else wants to tackle that one great. Just because you cross them at 300-400 does not mean it does not matter what driver you pick to achieve great sound.
Cross over (including slope) is extremely important as is power handling, placement, etc. Saying "does not matter where you are crossing them" is simply wrong. A speaker that was designed to run at say 100-500hz isn't going to sound very good if you cross it over at 500-5000hz. Running two speakers from different manufactores in the 500-1000hz range on the right side is going to sound as good IMO as running one speaker or likely even as good as two speakers same model.
You either did not speak clearly or you are half educated on this topic. Not flaming you just clearing up some stuff before someone takes it as truth. It would take an entire page to explain all this. Its on many sites already and search is easy to use. Remember we all learn something new everyday so don't take this the wrong way.
Well I can't say I am an expert, but I have built some monster installs, I have won/placed in several local contests (a few years ago when I competed... never SPL) and I have run the gambit from 10k installs to 1k installs. These are just my opinions from being in the scene from when it really was about sound (mid 90s) and not what rims I have or pimping my ride with a PS3.
 
I am not going to get into a back and forth conversation.

Nice way to chop up what I wrote so you could use it any way you like.

Saying "does not matter where you are crossing them" is simply wrong

Here is what I stated.

Does not matter where you are crossing them at you have to match the drivers based on several things.(Then go back and see what is was in reference to)

You still state stuff that is just not correct but I am not going to get involved in some legnthy debat. Some of what you stated is valid.

I am glad you won/placed at shows. I have to world finals invites in two different organizations with two different vehicles doesn't mean I know Jack Sh**. One from the 90's and early 2000's who gives a Fu**. You are not the only one that was in the scene in the mid 90's. I was around it since the late 80's who gives a crap. Just because we have been around or in it since then does not mean we know what the hell we are talking about.IMO So you can stop stating crap like this and throw it all out unless you are Gary Biggs, Scott B or someone.

Just becaue you have the money to spend does not mean you know crap either. Billy Bob can buy a $10,000 system doesn't mean he knows anything other than how to work the volume knob.

I for one am not into the rims, pimping or PS3. So I would agree there with you.

 
LOL I know,Louisiana CRX on this fourm is running 4 DD LTs on an IA 20.1.I will check out ur recommendations.But it is very had to find someone around with anything other than JL,Infinity,Polk etc,I liked the Jls components,sound good for the price,just just not loud enough,kinda to laid back.Bought me some JL tweets though and I am happy with them.

And to everyone else thanks for the recommendations,I have been considering just buying a new comp set,Rainbow SLC kicks,CDT not sure what model,Pioneer 720etc.The peerless seem cheap enough to just buy and if they work they work,What do they Rms at?I might wait till AA is back up and get some polys.

IDK!Thanks for the help fellas.
Here is a pic of the box before mods...

DD6-7.jpg


 
Nice way to chop up what I wrote so you could use it any way you like.Saying "does not matter where you are crossing them" is simply wrong. Here is what I stated. Does not matter where you are crossing them at you have to match the drivers based on several things.(Then go back and see what is was in reference to)
I simply misunderstood your point then. I read that to mean it is based on several factors excluding xref. My point is that xref is as important if not more so than most other factors with the possible exception of power handling. I wasn't trying to restate your arguement.
You still state stuff that is just not correct but I am not going to get involved in some legnthy debat. Some of what you stated is valid.
I am not adverse to hearing where I am wrong especially if it stays civil. I am not stating fact. I am simply stating my opinon on the matter.
I am glad you won/placed at shows. I have to world finals invites in two different organizations with two different vehicles doesn't mean I know Jack Sh**. One from the 90's and early 2000's who gives a Fu**. You are not the only one that was in the scene in the mid 90's. I was around it since the late 80's who gives a crap. Just because we have been around or in it since then does not mean we know what the hell we are talking about.IMO So you can stop stating crap like this and throw it all out unless you are Gary Biggs, Scott B or someone.
I did not call into question your credentials, you called out mine. I was just pointing out I have been around a long time, I have done several installs and I have competed successfully. I even prefaced this with I am no expert. Chill a little... I wasn't attacking you. You told me I was either half educated or wasn't clear. I was making the point that I am not half educated and we simply don't agree on my advice which is fine.
Just becaue you have the money to spend does not mean you know crap either. Billy Bob can buy a $10,000 system doesn't mean he knows anything other than how to work the volume knob.
You are correct that spending 10k on a system doesn't mean you are an expert but it does mean that I have actually heard a lot of the speakers suggested and furthers that I might know what I am talking about (you don't half *** those kinds of installs which was namely a Dynaudio with Helix amps setup).... and before you get upset again I am not saying you haven't heard them and I am not saying you don't know what you are talking about and I am certainly not saying you half *** installs. Again just making my point I am not half educated. Me stating this was to make that point.
I for one am not into the rims, pimping or PS3. So I would agree there with you.
BTW, this wasn't pointed at you just a general statement. I left competition when DEI started gobbling up some good companies and car audio took a backseat to car video. Not saying I am a purist, these days I am more of a value for the dollar kind of guy.
Again I wasn't attacking you and I am not trying to insult you. Just backing up my own statements whether you agree or disagree (hopefully respectfully).

 
To the OP. How much power are you going to have? Are you wanting to use a 6 1/2 or an 8"? What is going to be covering your midrange duties? Are you running active or passive? How much tuning ability are you going to have (crossovers, eq, time alignment, etc...)? All these things really need to be taken into consideration.

On the point of the midbass...which to be considered a midbass only runs up to a certain frequency which I would say 200hz....not every company makes a good one. Some companies make an awesome midrange and tweet but not necessarily a stout midbass and vice versa. I know of alot of people that don't use the same brand for all their speakers. It really just comes back to what the person is wanting and how bad they want it. Every speaker is going to act differenet in every vehicle. It is nice to have aot of tuning ability for this reason. I know I have sat in my truck for hours making small adjustments here and there. Ahh...what we go through for sound //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
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