Need some Mid-bass recommendations.

[KnOkIn It 420 10+ year member]

I need more midbass!Finally got some money on the side and would like to get some 6.5"s.Not a complete component set.

Lookin for some serious midbass.I have a RF 360.2 which is rated at 90@4and 150 @2 IIRC,it pretty old I cant read anything on the back of it any more lol.

I also have a PowerBass asa(?)400.2. 100@4 and 200@4,not real sure if puts out that power.

I am not really sure what price to set,definety nothing over 300.But less that 200 if possible,looking for bang for the buck.

Also have any one used Kicker SS midbass drivers?I think I might be able to fit the 8" driver in my door,would this be my best bet?

Thanks for any help.

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[xtremekustomz 10+ year member]

I had some of the ssmb6's actually I need to collect my money on those but I didn't really like them. Anyway....as for midbass....there are a few out there that are very good. Lets see....Morel, Dynaudio, Scan Speak but expect anywhere from $300-$400 for a set of these listed.

 

[KnOkIn It 420 10+ year member]

I had some of the ssmb6's actually I need to collect my money on those but I didn't really like them. Anyway....as for midbass....there are a few out there that are very good. Lets see....Morel, Dynaudio, Scan Speak but expect anywhere from $300-$400 for a set of these listed.

I know all the brands,just dont know models etc.I just cant seem to find what I want from what I have actually heard.If I had more power I would like to do DD LTs.

 

[xtremekustomz 10+ year member]

To get a good midbass you will need to seal off your door and use a good bit of deadener and have a strong baffle to mount the driver on. Basically make sure it is solid, that will make all the difference in the world. You say you know the brands so why not go to the websites and look at them? I thought you were looking for a recommendation? Dyn MW160 or 170, Morel Supremo or go to madisound.com and look there. They also have the scan speak revelators. I'd personally go with one of those 3 but that is just me. You need to see if someone in your area has a set in a properly sealed and deadened door and listen. Maybe even go to a sq competition and listen to some vehicles. The more power the better //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif It isn't uncommon for guys to have over 300 watts going to each speaker.

 

[siviog1 10+ year member]

I just ordered some CDT M-6 midbass/subwoofer drivers they are suppose to be badass... I had the CDT HD-62 and they rocked as well... So this upgrade should be good... Check em out...

 

[Tonyguy 10+ year member]

I'm strongly considering some Scanspeak Revelators. I keep hearing how great they are.

 

[Pickzilla 10+ year member]

Heres a few more midbass drivers to consider which pack serious punch in a 6.5 inch:

CDT M6, M6+, or best yet, the 06+

Rainbow power line CS, Germanium kicks, or profi kicks.

Many others, these just come to mind 1st.

Edit: Wow people throwing out the revelators... now we're talking about serious audiophile drivers //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 

[MiniVanMan 10+ year member]

Are you relegated to a 6.5" or can you do a 7". If you can do a 7" driver, the Seas RNX series drivers have great midbass, and they don't break the bank. Some of the best bang for the buck drivers out there.

Another option is the Peerless SLS series drivers. http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=143&products_id=8234

Not suitable for a 2-way as they don't extend very high, but will definitely provide solid midbass. Noted for efficiency, they'll get plenty loud off of your amp. Again, though, don't expect anything beyond 400-500 hz. They are perfect for a 3-way though.

So, to really answer your question, I need to know exactly how they will be implemented.

 

[KnOkIn It 420 10+ year member]

To get a good midbass you will need to seal off your door and use a good bit of deadener and have a strong baffle to mount the driver on. Basically make sure it is solid, that will make all the difference in the world. You say you know the brands so why not go to the websites and look at them? I thought you were looking for a recommendation? Dyn MW160 or 170, Morel Supremo or go to madisound.com and look there. They also have the scan speak revelators. I'd personally go with one of those 3 but that is just me. You need to see if someone in your area has a set in a properly sealed and deadened door and listen. Maybe even go to a sq competition and listen to some vehicles. The more power the better //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif It isn't uncommon for guys to have over 300 watts going to each speaker.

LOL I know,Louisiana CRX on this fourm is running 4 DD LTs on an IA 20.1.

I will check out ur recommendations.But it is very had to find someone around with anything other than JL,Infinity,Polk etc,I liked the Jls components,sound good for the price,just just not loud enough,kinda to laid back.Bought me some JL tweets though and I am happy with them.

And to everyone else thanks for the recommendations,I have been considering just buying a new comp set,Rainbow SLC kicks,CDT not sure what model,Pioneer 720etc.The peerless seem cheap enough to just buy and if they work they work,What do they Rms at?I might wait till AA is back up and get some polys.

IDK!Thanks for the help fellas.

 

[siviog1 10+ year member]

LOL I know,Louisiana CRX on this fourm is running 4 DD LTs on an IA 20.1.I will check out ur recommendations.But it is very had to find someone around with anything other than JL,Infinity,Polk etc,I liked the Jls components,sound good for the price,just just not loud enough,kinda to laid back.Bought me some JL tweets though and I am happy with them.

And to everyone else thanks for the recommendations,I have been considering just buying a new comp set,Rainbow SLC kicks,CDT not sure what model,Pioneer 720etc.The peerless seem cheap enough to just buy and if they work they work,What do they Rms at?I might wait till AA is back up and get some polys.

IDK!Thanks for the help fellas.

CDT HD-62 or higher they where loud and clear...

 

[tbasile1 10+ year member]

Pioneer 720s are very nice components, can handle alot more than their rated 50 watts LOL, I heard them with around 100-150, and they got pretty loud, with crisp sound and good midbass, very surprised how well they sounded

and theres always Rainbow Components, again excellent speakers!!

Any shops around you that carry any comps your looking at? Personal Preference is a big factor!!!

 

[Straegen 10+ year member]

Where are you going to cross this over? If it is low, you can pretty choose anything and some of the suggestions above are good. If you are beefing up your midbass with some overlap or going into the higher midbass sections, it is usually best to find a driver that is sonically very close to your original drivers which usually means from the same manufactorer. You don't have to, but you will likely have less matching hassle if you do, but if you are crossing over on the top end at 300-400 or so matching isn't going to matter much from a quality audio perspective. I have heard a lot of good systems using two different brand woofers that were just crossed over poorly and some cheap systems with good design sound spot on.

 

[genxx 10+ year member]

It depends on your budget and what your plans are. Many have listed some of the best mid-bass drivers out.

MiniVanMan can give you some great recomendations as well as xtremekustomz

The RNX, Scan-revs, Dynaudio are highly regard. The CDT M6, M6+ and ES-06+ I feel are over looked.IMO However they are not cheap either. For the price of the ES-06+ or M6+ I would go Scan, Dynaudio or Highend Seas. It has already been said but you need to list what freq. range you plan on using them in. If dedicated Mid-bass as in a 3-way the driver selection is going to differ from something being used in a 2-way due to the ability of the driver to play high enough to meet with your tweeter. However, there are some driver that play wide band that are very good in the mid-bass freq. You may already know this but just throwing it out there.

The PRS mids along with the Rsd mids are a great bang for the buck.

 

[genxx 10+ year member]

If it is low, you can pretty choose anything and some of the suggestions above are good. If you are beefing up your midbass with some overlap or going into the higher midbass sections, it is usually best to find a driver that is sonically very close to your original drivers which usually means from the same manufactorer. You don't have to, but you will likely have less matching hassle if you do, but if you are crossing over on the top end at 300-400 or so matching isn't going to matter much from a quality audio perspective.

I have bolded the areas that I am talking about.

1. Just because its low freq does not mean you just pick any driver and it will do. You need to do some more reading and listening before making that kind of statement.

2. It does not matter what two driver you put together they do not need to be from the same manufacture to achieve excellent sound.

3. Does not matter where you are crossing them at you have to match the drivers based on several things. I am not going to go in to it if someone else wants to tackle that one great. Just because you cross them at 300-400 does not mean it does not matter what driver you pick to achieve great sound.

You either did not speak clearly or you are half educated on this topic. Not flaming you just clearing up some stuff before someone takes it as truth. It would take an entire page to explain all this. Its on many sites already and search is easy to use. Remember we all learn something new everyday so don't take this the wrong way.

 

[///M5 10+ year member]

The real question is what are you going to use for crossovers, where will these be mounted (how big can they be) and are these for midbass in a 3way or 2way system. Offering any options before knowing that information is a bit backwards. There are a ton to choose from.