Need some Big 3 Info

[adixon816 10+ year member]

While getting ready for my new system I've decided to do the big 3. I read that you can just add-on to what's already there as far as factory wiring. I would likely replace the factory ground though from battery to chassis because it's such a wimpy wire. If I were to add on the power wire to the alternator would it make sense to put the 0g connector under the factory one so it'd be on the bottom of the two wires or does it not make a difference? The chassis ground just goes right to the body - figure I'll make sure it's touching bare metal. The last ground I don't really understand do I just pick a bolt on the block (somewhere recommended alternator bracket) and ground it to a different bare metal spot on the chassis somewhere? What do you guys recommend for terminals? My factory terminal already has two power wires on it (I guess from alternator and to the little fuse box) this is a 98 Explorer if that makes a difference. I basically just want to get my bearings straight and do it in one shot and right the first time.

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[Johnny Drama 5,000+ posts]

In my opinion for the positive side it really doesnt matter if the wire you are adding is before or after the stock ring.

For the ground you need to make sure that its sanded/grinded to a point that bare metal is showing. Sometimes that means to pull the stock off and sand and place the new under the stock.

For the Block to Chassis just make sure its a decently secured bolt that is out of the way of the heat and moving parts. In my opinion that wire is the least important of the three.

For terminals, any style of 1/0 ga crimp/clamp terminals work. I havent bought any in so long so the only place I would think to have them would be one of the links on the main page. Car Audio at CarAudio.com

 

[adixon816 10+ year member]

Amazon.com: XScorpion Dual 0 Gauge Pro Ring Terminal: Electronics

I was looking at those for terminals the only thing that confuses me now is my battery positive already has two factory wires on it smaller gauge maybe 4. If these are already there and I connect the 0 gauge to the alternator and also have to run 0 gauge back to my amp it seems like my battery terminal will be over run with wires I don't know how they would all fit.

 

[CHEMMINS 10+ year member]

Just replace all existing big 3 with 1/0. Be faster and easier.

 

[adixon816 10+ year member]

Just replace all existing big 3 with 1/0. Be faster and easier.

Issue I have here is there are already a wire coming out of my fuse block in the hood to the battery so I have no idea what I'd do with it.

 

[Deeper_shades 10+ year member]

In my opinion for the positive side it really doesnt matter if the wire you are adding is before or after the stock ring. For the ground you need to make sure that its sanded/grinded to a point that bare metal is showing. Sometimes that means to pull the stock off and sand and place the new under the stock.

For the Block to Chassis just make sure its a decently secured bolt that is out of the way of the heat and moving parts. In my opinion that wire is the least important of the three.

For terminals, any style of 1/0 ga crimp/clamp terminals work. I havent bought any in so long so the only place I would think to have them would be one of the links on the main page. Car Audio at CarAudio.com

\

good info there.

Id go with the 0 gauge 5/16 o ring terminals, the ones that need to be crimped, and you should solder them as well. from my experiences, they are more reliable than the bold on terminals,

there is a good spot on the chassis which is located right above the wheel wheel, there should be 4 bolts that hold on the suspension/frame, depending on the lay out of the vehicle, its a great spot to ground off.

sand all your tie in spots, and terminals, and throw on some anti rust/corrosion conductive spray/grease on and over top.

 

[adixon816 10+ year member]

Amazon.com: Stinger Shoc-Krome Series 0 Gauge to 4 Gauge Power Wire Reducer: Automotive

This would actually solve my problem of how to get it up with the terminals.. does it defeat the purpose reducing the size like that though?

 

[CHEMMINS 10+ year member]

Not on that short of a connection.

 

[Deeper_shades 10+ year member]

Amazon.com: Stinger Shoc-Krome Series 0 Gauge to 4 Gauge Power Wire Reducer: Automotive
This would actually solve my problem of how to get it up with the terminals.. does it defeat the purpose reducing the size like that though?

I wouldn't use those ever

I would go with batt terminals what have 2 or 3 bolt connections.

Monster Cable MPC-P300-SLM-BC3+ (mon-120976-00) - Battery Terminals - Sonic Electronix

than get these.

Stinger SPT8101 - Ring Terminals - Sonic Electronix

crimp and solder

 

[adixon816 10+ year member]

\sand all your tie in spots, and terminals, and throw on some anti rust/corrosion conductive spray/grease on and over top.

Any recommendations for the spray or grease? Just get some on the terminal and exposed wire?

 

[adixon816 10+ year member]

Since I have some 4 gauge laying around I'm going to give it a shot with that for my install. I'm going to be running a small amp anyways only 350 watts I figure it should be ok and if not I'd change it. I'm back with some pics and some questions again.

For my power this is what my terminal looks like now, they definitely need cleaning if I'm going to use them.



How would I go about connecting two ring terminals to this for my alt to battery wire and battery to amp wire.

For my engine to chassis ground is it ok to use this bolt if I sand it? It is part of the alternator bracket I do believe.



And can I ground it to



if I sand it down?

Last but not least amp to battery



this is the boot I lift up and connect my wire to right?

I apologize for my inexperience but I never tackled a wire upgrade in my last car because I was to nervous. It had similar terminals to this one and all I did was stick the ring terminal on the bolt for the battery terminal and tighten it up.

 

[ArthurIhde 10+ year member]

hmmm,Im sorry Ive no idea.

 

[adixon816 10+ year member]

hmmm,Im sorry Ive no idea.

Ok then, still looking for some advice I would like to tackle this today even though it's freezing out if possible.

 

[VWBobby 10+ year member]

I would definitely replace your terminals....

The ones suggested here look great: Monster Cable MPC-P300-SLM-BC3+ (mon-120976-00) - Battery Terminals - Sonic Electronix

Some car audio shops, auto parts and marine supply places have similar parts in stock locally.

You can buy copper 4-gauge or 0/1 gauge heavy ring terminals from any hardware store. I've even found some in the hardware section of supermarkets!

Crimp and solder like suggested above.

Definitely mount them to solid pieces that are at least 14-gauge steel if possible. Frame, reinforcements around the engine mounts, suspension or shock towers. The ground between the engine and body is very important for your alternator and electronics on your engine to function properly. A lot of ignition and injection misfires can be relieved with a good ground.