My first "Active" "SQ'ish" build attempt.

I have been back and forth on my subwoofer situation. I love my little P3D4-10 and the thought occurred to me that I could run two of these little *******. So I put the parameters into WinISD and came up with 4 vented boxes... I was thinking that box #1, 3.0 cubic feet and tuned to 28hz looks great... But there are 3 others. Based on these graphs, which looks best to you? 1 ohm - 1200 - 1500w amp so 1000w`ish is what I would throw at them.
Yeah the 3.0 @ 28hz looks best out of the 4. You wouldn't want to tune any lower than that anyway. You should try graphing 30hz to see what you get.
 
Yeah the 3.0 @ 28hz looks best out of the 4. You wouldn't want to tune any lower than that anyway. You should try graphing 30hz to see what you get.
I did, It's not too much different than the 28... a lil more boosted from +3db to +4db and shifted right slightly, obviously. Still looks good. I think the 28hz tune would require less tuning in the 3sixty.3 in the end.
 

Attachments

  • Box-plot-2.jpg
    Box-plot-2.jpg
    175.1 KB · Views: 141
I ordered all my RCA cables... 90%on looks, I think they look great. These are for going from the source unit to the DSP. I also have short versions of the same brand, same model to go from the DSP out to the amps.
Knukonceptz Krystal RCA's
 

Attachments

  • 4-Chnl.jpg
    4-Chnl.jpg
    74.3 KB · Views: 144
  • 2-Chnl.jpg
    2-Chnl.jpg
    78.2 KB · Views: 131
I spent today replacing my drivers door, door lock actuator and my forward dome light/map light/sunroof control. Now my door switch functions properly activating my dome lights, auto window vent and radio on/off. Now all my interior lights are LED.
 
I ordered my Stinger 300a circuit breaker and some Knukonceptz 0awg - 0awg cable reducers. The "reducers" are going into the circuit breaker.
 

Attachments

  • Stinger 300.jpg
    Stinger 300.jpg
    26.5 KB · Views: 138
  • SSP0-Wire.jpg
    SSP0-Wire.jpg
    30.5 KB · Views: 146
Just me... I wouldn't tune under 30hz.
Cabin gain will help the low end a ton. Idk... how low is too low?.. for some people it's never low enough I guess.
 
No, that is actually a good point... I keep forgetting about that cabin gain thing. I have no way to know, though, what frequencies will be boosted by cabin gain.
I understand the whole idea about flattening the response by tuning low, I'd play with volumes to flatten response in conjunction with a lowish tune.
Be careful... Larger volumes will give a peakier response irregardless and require more port area. A smaller volume may end up needing less port area but require a difficult port length if tuned to low.
Cabin gain ought to really help those lower notes anyways. I'm still unclear what type of response/goals your after.
I suppose it just depends how it models up to you and what you feel is gonna work, me? I like a punchier tune with accuracy and decent lows... not digging into the cellar.
 
I just want it to play sub bass frequencies (bass music occasionally) and reinforce kick drums, bass guitar, lower piano keys and the like daily on the regular. For example, when I listen to The Holly Cole Trio (Tennessee Waltz) and that upright bass kicks in... I want to feel as if I am sitting right in front of them... I want to feel the air coming off that upright bass and hear the finger plucks. I played guitar in a band for some time and I am not going for a representation of a quality recording... I know what the instruments sound like in person, that is what I want to re-create. If I hear a 18" ride bell I want it to sound like I am at Sam Ash hitting that bell, the same sound. If I hear an A power chord played through a Duncan TB4 humbucker through a Marshall TSL head and 4-12 cab... I want to be able to say yes, that is the right tone... and so on.
 
Whilst waiting for car audio related items to ship to me, these lovely gems showed up today. The G6 got new eyes!

I have been running the H11 LED Low beams in the current housings and I have the H9 LED High beam bulbs right here waiting for these new housings. I am going to swap all the bulbs over soon.
 

Attachments

  • HLH.jpg
    HLH.jpg
    285.3 KB · Views: 131
I now have the main power junction from the battery. I am going to use the 300a breaker. 1, it should blow fast if needed. 2, I can cut power to the system to work safely. 3, it looks cool.
 

Attachments

  • 20190823_133835_HDR.jpg
    20190823_133835_HDR.jpg
    318.4 KB · Views: 165
  • 20190823_134858_HDR.jpg
    20190823_134858_HDR.jpg
    260.1 KB · Views: 138
Some "progress". I Kinda have a pain in the ass car to do a stereo install in but have come across alternatives that save me money, upgrade the looks and functionality of the car and retain all my cars features. The dash kit for my car would be $299... that is just the dash kit. This is because my Vehicle Information Center in built into the factory radio. I have learned that if I swap my 2008 gauge cluster with a specific and newer model gauge cluster, swap my cruise control buttons mounted on the steering wheel and relocate one wire from one pin in the CC connector plug to another slot on the same plug, I will have moved the VIC to the dash and will be able to control it from the steering wheel. No Jerry rigging or anything. It will function just as the newer model does. I am also going to swap my climate controls... they are swappable and plug N play. I have already ordered the new Double DIN mounting kit. $9 Metra. This is gonna be fun!!! Here is what the new and old parts look like. Old first...
 

Attachments

  • 08 speedo.jpg
    08 speedo.jpg
    84.1 KB · Views: 129
  • Gauge Cluster.jpg
    Gauge Cluster.jpg
    224.1 KB · Views: 126
  • 08 CC.jpg
    08 CC.jpg
    81.7 KB · Views: 146
  • Cruise buttons.jpg
    Cruise buttons.jpg
    54.1 KB · Views: 141
  • 08 climate controls.jpg
    08 climate controls.jpg
    275.3 KB · Views: 136
  • Climate controls.jpg
    Climate controls.jpg
    175.5 KB · Views: 121
Any install salespersons or experts!! What wire harness do I need for my car?? I have been to PAC, AXXESS, Crutchfield, Sonicelectronix... but they are not saying what exactly I need. I am confused rather.

Here is what I have:

2008 Pontiac G6 GT Coupe
W/Onstar
*W/Monsoon System - I will bypass this whole Monsoon System*
W/Steering wheel controls - Volume up and down - Track up and down - Extra button that changed disc 1 through 6
*W/DIC in factory radio but this should be ignored as I am moving it to the dash gauge cluster via a parts swap*

What I am wanting to do:

Retain chimes/warnings
Gain Power/Ground/Accessory (switched 12v)/Illumination for the aftermarket radio
*Speaker wires not needed*
Steering wheel controls
Kenwood eXcelon X998 temporarily until I get the DD eXcelon DMX706S in 2 months

Thanks in advance
 
Activity
No one is currently typing a reply...

Similar threads

It's always leaned that direction. Not sure how cheap you can really get anything done these days. Deadening and custom mounting...
10
815
https://www.alpine-usa.com/products/subwoofers/truck-enclosures
3
873
As for your setup, the circled input in that reply is where the LOC (built into the amp) is located. You don’t need a LOC other than that. All you...
35
4K
well they list that frequence response so I will try to use it. Also, does it help to have the marine speakers in their towers for such a thing...
2
714
Your deck has it built in ...you just need to dial it in ...i have 2 or 3 of those decks ...nice for the money
1
1K

About this thread

ThxOne

Premium Member
The Boss
Thread starter
ThxOne
Joined
Location
The United States of America
Start date
Participants
Who Replied
Replies
528
Views
77,550
Last reply date
Last reply from
ThxOne
Screenshot 2024-03-07 184329.png

Doxquzme

    Mar 27, 2024
  • 0
  • 0
IMG_3075.jpeg

Daniel Lee

    Mar 27, 2024
  • 0
  • 0

Latest topics

Top