My build is put on hold! F**kin pissed right now!

Plottin4success
10+ year member

CarAudio.com Elite
Well, I went to go to work this morning, and my **** truck didnt wanna start. All my lights come on, horn honks, radio plays, but when I go to crank, NOTHING! The starter doesnt even turn over, It doesnt click or anything. I got my starter tested and its good. I think my theft deterrent system is on the fritz. I dont think my ignition is reading my key. This sucks bc I was just about to buy me a new h/u and ssacket is building my sub right now. The only thing I hadleft to do was get an amp and build my box and unstall everything. I also have a 6" aero port and some mounting rings on the way. If its what I think it is, its gonna cost me about $300 to fix and I have to tow it to the dealer. The trucks not under warranty either. Well, thats my rant for the night.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/furious.gif.fc81ca146dbff91fede3ed290dbc4f4c.gif//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/mad.gif.c18f003ab0ef8a0d9c27ca78d77a6392.gif//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/furious.gif.fc81ca146dbff91fede3ed290dbc4f4c.gif

 
get your battery load tested... sometimes batteries can short internally and do exactly what you are saying. they meter 12+ volts, everything turns on, but when you go to start the battery shorts out.

 
if you can get to the starting solenoid try jumping its posts and listen for the starter to spin up... if it spins up then its the solenoid... if not its probably the battery or like you said could have something to do with your oem security... security issue is unlikely though. do you have a remote start system with a bypass like an xk01? or a security system with a starter kill option?

take your battery to autozone and have them load test it.

 
If it was factory security you would have a light in the cluster flashing real fast after you tried starting it. If it is and you have a remote start in there check the interface. If it has been cut and spliced into factory orange/black or yellow real thin wire disconnect and hook back up to other wire. If it just taps inline, unplug it. Try to restart truck, and leave ignition on untill light goes out. Then shut off and start.

If you have no security light flashing, check for an alarm in there that is tied into the starter wire. If there is make sure your getting input from the ignition switch and out of the relay. If your not, I would say connect factory starter wires back together.

If all org. factory wiring check the output coming from the ignition switch. Then on some models they have a starter fuse check that and all other fuses to make sure none are blown. If you know someone at a local auto repair shop get a diagram of the starting circuit to trace the wiring.

 
DIRECTWIRE™ WIRING INFORMATION - CHEVROLET / SILVERADO / 2004 / Remote Start

12volts red (x2) + ignition harness

Starter yellow + ignition harness

Second Starter N/A

Ignition pink + ignition harness

Second Ignition white + ignition harness

Notes: To avoid the check engine light from coming on and possible damage to the automatic transmission, the second ignition in this vehicle MUST be powered when adding a remote start system.

Third Ignition N/A

Accessory orange + ignition harness

Second Accessory brown + ignition harness

Keysense lt. green - ignition harness

Power Lock use 457G or 456G module

Notes: If Directed module 457G or 456G is not available, refer to DirectFax document 1601.

On base model trucks, the 457G or 456G is not necessary. Instead, the lock wire is lt. blue (-), pin B5, and the unlock wire is white (-), pin B10. They are in the lt. blue plug at the BCM.

Power Unlock see power lock

Lock Motor gray 5wi driver door module in door

Unlock Motor tan 5wi driver door module in door

Parking Lights+ brown + driver kick panel

Parking Lights- gray/black - BCM, brown plug, pin B2

Notes: The BCM (Body Control Module) is under the driver side dash. It has 6 plugs in it, the purple plug is on the back.

Hazards white - steering column, 5 pin plug

Turn Signal(L) dk. green + steering column, 5 pin plug

Turn Signal® lt. green + steering column, 5 pin plug

Reverse Light lt. green + BCM, black plug, pin F

Notes: The BCM (Body Control Module) is under the driver side dash. It has 6 plugs in it, the purple plug is on the back.

Door Trigger gray/blk (L), black/wht ® - each door module in each door

Notes: On base model trucks the door trigger wires are in the lt. blue plug at the BCM, pins B4 and A5. On 4dr trucks the LR door trigger is lt. blue/black, pin A3, and the RR is lt. green/black, pin A2. They are in the purple plug at the BCM. Use all wires and diode isolate.

The BCM (Body Control Module) is under the driver side dash. It has 6 plugs in it, the purple plug is on the back.

Dome Supervision gray/black + BCM, black plug, pin E

Notes: The BCM (Body Control Module) is under the driver side dash. It has 6 plugs in it, the purple plug is on the back.

Trunk/Hatch Pin N/A

Hood Pin N/A

Trunk/Hatch Release N/A

Power Sliding Door N/A

Factory Alarm Arm arms with lock

Factory Alarm Disarm lt. green - driver door module in door

Disarm No Unlock see factory alarm disarm

Tachometer white ac instrument cluster, pin A5 or PCM

Notes: The PCM (Powertrain Control Module) is in the left front of the engine compartment to the left of the fan shroud. The tach wire is in the green plug, pin 10.

For tach can also go to any of the ignition coils or injectors and use the wire that is NOT pink, black, or brown.

Wait to start dk. blue - instrument cluster, pin A2 or PCM

Notes: The PCM (Powertrain Control Module) is in the left front of the engine compartment to the left of the fan shroud. The wait to start wire is in the green plug, pin 36.

Brake Wire white + brake pedal switch

Parking Brake lt. blue - BCM, lt. blue plug, pin A7

Notes: The BCM (Body Control Module) is under the driver side dash. It has 6 plugs in it, the purple plug is on the back.

Horn Trigger black/yellow to black - steering column

Memory Seat 1 red + driver door module in door

Memory Seat 2 pink + driver door module in door

Memory Seat 3 N/A +

Interface Module: Category:

Immobilizer Bypass Required:

Yes Type:

Passlock II

Part #: 555LW

Alternate Part1 #: 555T

Notes: Not required if using the combo interface module.

The Passlock II wire colors are yellow, black, and red/white (not used).

Interface Module: Category:

Door Lock Interface Required:

Yes Type:

Data Bus

Part #: 456G

Notes: Not required if using the combo interface module.

Interface Module: Category:

Combo Interface Required:

Yes Type:

Data Bus

Part #: 457GW

Notes:

This wiring information is being provided free of charge on an "as is" basis, without any representation or warranty. It is your responsibility to verify any circuit before interfacing with it using a digital multimeter.

Directed electronics, Inc. assumes no responsibility with regards to the accuracy or currency of this information. Proper installation in every case is and remains the responsibility of the installer. DEI assumes no liability or responsibility resulting from improper installation, even in reliance upon this information.

 
Ok, I checked all of my fuses and relays. They are all good. Im gonna take the battery to autozone and have them test it. Its not the solenoid for a fact. I replaced the starter and solenoid yesterday and it gets fire to the starter, it just wont turn over. I tried jumping the starter and all it did was shoot sparks and scare the crap outta me. I even tried jumping the truck with cables and it would do anything. Goin to take the new starter out now and return it and have my battery tested. I dont have a security light flashing so that prolly rules out that theory. The truck does have an alarm but its factory and all the wiring is factory. I'll let you guys know something later.

 
Well, I went to go to work this morning, and my **** truck didnt wanna start. All my lights come on, horn honks, radio plays, but when I go to crank, NOTHING! The starter doesnt even turn over, It doesnt click or anything. I got my starter tested and its good. I think my theft deterrent system is on the fritz. I dont think my ignition is reading my key. This sucks bc I was just about to buy me a new h/u and ssacket is building my sub right now. The only thing I hadleft to do was get an amp and build my box and unstall everything. I also have a 6" aero port and some mounting rings on the way. If its what I think it is, its gonna cost me about $300 to fix and I have to tow it to the dealer. The trucks not under warranty either. Well, thats my rant for the night.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/furious.gif.fc81ca146dbff91fede3ed290dbc4f4c.gif//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/mad.gif.c18f003ab0ef8a0d9c27ca78d77a6392.gif//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/furious.gif.fc81ca146dbff91fede3ed290dbc4f4c.gif
sucks about your issue, but it does seem the issue is going to be smaller than you originally thought.

But just a side note, how was yer build log put on hold, if you dont have a headunit, subwoofer, amp, or box? So all you have is wiring and speakers? Sounds like theres a lot more putting it on hold //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 
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I pretty sure you have thought of it but maybe flash your computer and see if it forgets the alarm. My camaro did that a few times and i would just disconnect the battery a while and it would start right up just a thought

 
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Plottin4success

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