Max watts RMS and Peak Subs/Advice

[Crunch81]

Good day people,

Can somebody give me some advice?

I have:

0.6 inches positive cable (15mm)

0.6 inches negative

I planned doing the big three update.

I do not plan to change alternator and put extra battery.

I do have a one farad cap but I already now that is the last thing to do.

Can somebody tell me the max watt capacity for sub and Amp?

Thanks!!

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[jigsizzle 10+ year member]

Hmmmm...

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[Crunch81]

Hmmmm...
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Thanks! [emoji1]

 

[wew lad 5,000+ posts]

Good day people,
Can somebody give me some advice?

I have:

0.6 inches positive cable (15mm)

0.6 inches negative

I planned doing the big three update.

I do not plan to change alternator and put extra battery.

I do have a one farad cap but I already now that is the last thing to do.

Can somebody tell me the max watt capacity for sub and Amp?

Thanks!!

Which car? What type of battery is it, and what specs? Most cars can handle ~1000-1500w RMS if you do the big 3. Most european cars arent as big and have smaller alternators and batteries so it could be as low as 500-1000w rms

 

[tymoto21 10+ year member]

What awg is it?

Is the conductor .6" because that's a huge wire and can support a lot of current

Without more info nobody can tell you how many watts you can run

What are you trying to do?

 

[Crunch81]

Which car? What type of battery is it, and what specs? Most cars can handle ~1000-1500w RMS if you do the big 3. Most european cars arent as big and have smaller alternators and batteries so it could be as low as 500-1000w rms

It’s a Opel Insignia 2010 1.6 Turbo.

In usa it is the same as the Buick Regal.

It is a 60 ah battery. Considering the thickness of my positive and negative, how much watts is max for that?

 

[Crunch81]

What awg is it?Is the conductor .6" because that's a huge wire and can support a lot of current

Without more info nobody can tell you how many watts you can run

What are you trying to do?

Yes, it is 15 sqaure mm so thats 0.6 inches.

I really do not know what awg it is.

 

[BOOMINGRANDPA 5,000+ posts]

it's American wire size.

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

Gauge = awg

 

[tymoto21 10+ year member]

It looks like that is around 6awg

I wouldn't run more than 500w rms through that. At the most.

 

[Crunch81]

It looks like that is around 6awgI wouldn't run more than 500w rms through that. At the most.

Wow that is not much.....

 

---------- Post added at 11:38 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:37 AM ----------

 

I have now 350 watt rms crunch woofer with two audison 70 watt rms speakers so at my max already

 

[tymoto21 10+ year member]

Your wire is small

Get bigger wire

Do "the big 3" upgrade (search it on here and you will find what it is)

Replace your battery with something better or add a second battery

Then you could look into getting 1000-1500watts

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

the rest of the world doesnt use AWG guys... stop acting like ignorant Americans living in a bubble lmfao.

Wow that is not much..... 

---------- Post added at 11:38 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:37 AM ----------

 

I have now 350 watt rms crunch woofer with two audison 70 watt rms speakers so at my max already

This is not something someone on the internet can tell you precisely because all cars are different electrically. Do yourself a favor and install a voltmeter with the voltmeter's pos and negative leads directly at your subwoofer amp and play music to see your lowest voltage drops and then upgrade electricals accordingly. Everything everyone says is just speculation. Your actual voltage drop tells you the actual story. If its dropping below 12, start upgrading alts/batteries and the thickest wire you can buy. If its holding above 13.8 volts on the hardest bass drops then go bigger and see what your voltage drop is and upgrade accordingly.

The watts to alternator thing is useless as well because current draw is different and music is dynamic, you arent drawing 350 watts worth of power all the time and your amp may or may not do proper power ratings either so its actually A LOT less than you expect. Throw all that out of the window and just go by your voltage drops.

 

[tymoto21 10+ year member]

Awg is what most people here are familiar with

15sqmm is just under our standard 6awg (16sqmm)

6 awg wire is only going to handle conservatively 50 amps

He is asking for a general base idea on what he can run which is roughly 500 watts

 

[Crunch81]

the rest of the world doesnt use AWG guys... stop acting like ignorant Americans living in a bubble lmfao.



This is not something someone on the internet can tell you precisely because all cars are different electrically. Do yourself a favor and install a voltmeter with the voltmeter's pos and negative leads directly at your subwoofer amp and play music to see your lowest voltage drops and then upgrade electricals accordingly. Everything everyone says is just speculation. Your actual voltage drop tells you the actual story. If its dropping below 12, start upgrading alts/batteries and the thickest wire you can buy. If its holding above 13.8 volts on the hardest bass drops then go bigger and see what your voltage drop is and upgrade accordingly.

The watts to alternator thing is useless as well because current draw is different and music is dynamic, you arent drawing 350 watts worth of power all the time and your amp may or may not do proper power ratings either so its actually A LOT less than you expect. Throw all that out of the window and just go by your voltage drops.

Thanks for explaining that, it’s really clear now.

What impact would the Big 3 upgrade and the thickest pos and neg wires availible give me on the situation? I mean: on a scale wise, would these upgrades have a big positive impact on the Max watts my car can handle? Or is a big 3 and thick wires useless without a battery and/or alternator upgrade? I was in my previous post not clear: I want to actually upgrade my sound system with a better sub and amp.