Making my system safe?


FuzzAZ

Junior Member
Mar 21, 2013
11
0
Gilbert, AZ
Okay, so I have a 2013 Mitsubishi Lancer SE, and I'm looking to put my system into it. Overall it's going to be four alpine 6 1/2's, two under-seat Kicker *' subs, and 2 Rockford Fosgate Prime R1 12' subwoofers. All are going to be properly amped and all that fun stuff, but I have a few wuestions regarding the overall 'safety' of my system.

I have a 10y/100,000m warranty on the car, and found out yesterday that if the audio system breaks anything in the car, it voids my entire warranty. So I was wondering what the easiest way to ease strain on my car's electrical system would be. I've thought about isolated batteries, and capacitors, but I don't know how much these will truly help.

The options I'm looking at are as follows:

Capacitor

2nd battery+Capacitor

2nd battery

The system will pull 115 amps peak, and the alternator puts out 130 amps. If anyone could help that would be fantastic.

 

wickedwitt

Junior Member
May 17, 2010
3,091
37
Tahoka TX
1. Don't do 8s and 12s. Cancellation will actually decrease output.

2. Battery. No capacitor, they do more harm than good if you are at the limits of the electrical system.

3. Do your research on panels etc so you don't break anything. Plenty of vehicles can have after market audio gear installed without doing any harm to the stock vehicle or panels. Take your time and do it properly and down the road you'll be able to pull it out without ever even noticing there was a system to begin with.

 
OP
F

FuzzAZ

Junior Member
Mar 21, 2013
11
0
Gilbert, AZ
What do you mean by cancellation?

I'm running the 8's less filtered than the 12's so they act as more of a midrange speaker.

And there's going to be a three amp setup. 4ch-6 1/2s mono-8's mono-12's

A second battery with an isolator, correct?

 

wickedwitt

Junior Member
May 17, 2010
3,091
37
Tahoka TX
What do you mean by cancellation?I'm running the 8's less filtered than the 12's so they act as more of a midrange speaker.

And there's going to be a three amp setup. 4ch-6 1/2s mono-8's mono-12's

A second battery with an isolator, correct?
An isolator is not necessary if you are charging them to the same voltage (ex. both 12v batteries).

As long as the 8s and 12s are truly crossed over to be playing different frequencies, that would be acceptable. Decently amped mid speakers should handle this just fine, however. The 8s in this scenario are really inane.

I don't have the time to fully explain cancellation to you, hopefully someone will chime in. Essentially, the varying characteristics of the two different drivers, on differing power, in different enclosures means the sound waves produced by them will cancel each other out. What this means to you is a muffled sound, and less output by having both than if you say just had the 12s.

In all honesty, I wouldn't do the 8s at all and would save the money from that part of the system to upgrade to a bit bigger mono and run R2 12s in a decent ported box. Crossover the R2s at 63hz Low-Pass Filter, then cross your mids at 80 High-Pass Filter. They should meet up quite well giving you full range from the lower end of your subs response (20-30hz depending on box tuning, size, and power) all the way up to 20k (the upper limits of human hearing).

 
OP
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FuzzAZ

Junior Member
Mar 21, 2013
11
0
Gilbert, AZ
The 8's are scheduled to go in very soon actually, ahaa. But, I could always sell them when I want to upgrade to 12's.

My whole thing on it is that the 8's should be more responsive to let's say, a double kick pedal than the 12's. So if I do end up scrapping the 8's, would it make more sense to just go to 3 10's?

 

wickedwitt

Junior Member
May 17, 2010
3,091
37
Tahoka TX
The 8's are scheduled to go in very soon actually, ahaa. But, I could always sell them when I want to upgrade to 12's. My whole thing on it is that the 8's should be more responsive to let's say, a double kick pedal than the 12's. So if I do end up scrapping the 8's, would it make more sense to just go to 3 10's?
I'm running 15s in a ported box tuned to 36hz and my double kicks from metal will absolutely murder you. No "muddyness" sound, no issues keeping up. The box and good clean power will make way more difference than the size of the cone.

This idea that larger subs can't keep up as well comes from companies using the same motor force on a level of sub (R1 for instance) throughout the entire size lineup. In other words, there is just as much "motor" on an 8 as there is on the 15. By default, the 15 is going to have less cone control and will, in fact, sound "muddier" than the 8 on the same power. This is yet another reason why I said I would go more power and upgrade to R2s. Very efficient Dual Voice Coil subs that would do wonderfully in a ported box w/ about 250-300w each. You would get the response you are wanting without sacrificing the ability to play some slowed rap from time to time and hit those notes as well.

I speak from experience. While I have 8000w on my 15s in my truck, my Highlander has 250w going to 1 RF R2 12. Of course it isn't nearly as powerful as the truck, but I'm not missing out at all on the kick drum and higher hz bass notes. I have a good 4ch on my mids and have them crossed at 80 just like I told you, midbass is great too.

 

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