Los33 2000 GMC Sierra Build Log

smaller fuse and larger fuse block
the fuse obviously didn't blow in time.
Adding another run would fix this issue..

I fuse to my wires max rating so i can get the least resistance.

Now i understand adding runs is not always for show, but it does dissipate heat better as the load is lessened on one wire.

Had a long talk with black nasty ami..

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Adding another run would fix this issue..
I fuse to my wires max rating so i can get the least resistance.

Now i understand adding runs is not always for show, but it does dissipate heat better as the load is lessened on one wire.

Had a long talk with black nasty ami..

Sent from my draconis using Tapatalk
Ya that will help alot !

 
True on the plastic! You need nylon bases melting point is alot higher, I think its over 300 degrees vs around 200 or less on plastic.
I was thinking of doing some custom blocks that have carbide as a outer coat to allow heat up to 800 degrees Fahrenheit.

Of course the metal would melt at 500 degrees, but being fused at 350 amps the most likely top heat id achieve is near 380 degrees if it did get hot enough.

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I was thinking of doing some custom blocks that have carbide as a outer coat to allow heat up to 800 degrees Fahrenheit.
Of course the metal would melt at 500 degrees, but being fused at 350 amps the most likely top heat id achieve is near 380 degrees if it did get hot enough.

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380 degrees ?

 
Wouldnt the insulation on the welding cable melt off long before that ?
The wire its self can go up to 221 degrees i think it is, but longer wires can divide the heat.. Shorter runs can handle more current, but less heat.

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The wire its self can go up to 221 degrees i think it is, but longer wires can divide the heat.. Shorter runs can handle more current, but less heat.
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Definitely mine hardly get warm and its only 0 gauge but three poss and three neg runs. But your right now that I think of it mine melted when I only had one run of 0 gauge.

 
Update on amp //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crying.gif.ec0ebefe590df0251476573bc49e46d8.gif

Two of the three rca terminals were turned to where they were cutting into the ground wire of the rca plug on the board. Remedied that issue, but amp still performs abnormally when run with a RMT knob. Will send to amp tech for further analysis. Also, power on L.E.D. was missing on amp.
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That's your own fault though. Should have glued the screws in so they wouldn't back out the first time it happened. This is the second time so it's on you. That svcks though. U need to make your box stiffer as there is to much vibration Forsure
Amp tech from soundqubed concluded the pre-amp was the issue.

Manufacturer defect....

Amps getting fixed and sent back to me.

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Amp tech from soundqubed concluded the pre-amp was the issue.
Manufacturer defect....

Amps getting fixed and sent back to me.

Sent from my draconis using Tapatalk

Bro the amp worked fine when u got it, then U shook it to pieces and prolly didn't tell the tech that u rattled the screws out of the amp and it was barely hanging onto the box not once but TWICE, U prly put the screws back into the amp and shipped it back to SQ like nothing ever happened and they are fixing it for you because you lied and didn't tell them u shook the amp into pieces.. I'm not stupid. I know what happened.

 
Bro the amp worked fine when u got it, then U shook it to pieces and prolly didn't tell the tech that u rattled the screws out of the amp and it was barely hanging onto the box not once but TWICE, U prly put the screws back into the amp and shipped it back to SQ like nothing ever happened and they are fixing it for you because you lied and didn't tell them u shook the amp into pieces.. I'm not stupid. I know what happened.
Hmm ok? I spoke to zak at soundqubed.

I told him how it was mounted and how the screws came out. I even told him i put them back in.

This is why he explained no matter what that pressure was gonna be too much for the amp and explained it could be anything from a broken solder point to vibration damage.

When they first fixed what they thought was an issue from vibration they saw the power led was missing leading to end user damage.

But after the amp tech checked it out he concluded that even with all the other things they had fixed the pre-amp could have not been damaged or else the amp would have failed 100%. So zak explained that they have had multiple amps brought back with same issue of pre-amp issues like mine.

But good try at trying to call me a liar. I have the cash to get it fixed if needed so i dont need to lie.

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Went to go talk about contract work and when i stepped out after couple hours it was gone.

Saw the video and it looks like they popped my locks and must have broke my ignition key hole.

My wall was noticable so i guess they saw the 18's and took it.

Goodluck to them trying to get it all out.

They are gonna have to take out the seats and find the exact bit to unscrew the subs.

And all that was left was the ppi amp.

I just received my sq 4500 in the mail so they are bassless.

If they try to remove anything my battery setup will arc.

But my rims are gonna be gone for. Sure

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