Southeast Region looking to beef up a system and would like some input on build

[spokey9]

Lots of good advice above me.. but if running all that is what you want to do...

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A dsp would be the only option I know of...I've never seen a deck with enough outputs...

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Lots of good advice above me.. but if running all that is what you want to do...

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Dayton Audio DSP-408 4x8 DSP Digital Signal Processor for Home and Car AudioTake Control of Your Sound Ease of use has always had its place in the consumer electronics industry. Dayton Audio has now brought to market a digital signal processor (DSP) that combines versatility, incredible sound...

www.parts-express.com

A dsp would be the only option I know of...I've never seen a deck with enough outputs...

He can use RCA splitters on the Rears and Deck for signal. The Rear Deck speakers will eventually get destroyed and damaged soon if not capped off as the pressure being introduced by the subs in the trunk space will max the cones on the rear deck speakers and destroy them useless, May as well remove those/delete them and introduce the sub frequencies through the deck area to fill the cabin with more bass.. Cheapest outcome with the best results for a small mount of time spent. From my experiences hands on

 

[spokey9]

I was pointing out something that'd do what he wanted...personally I'd drop all the rear speakers and use the freed up channels for mid bass drivers up front...

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

I was pointing out something that'd do what he wanted...personally I'd drop all the rear speakers and use the freed up channels for mid bass drivers up front...

He could deff do that with some Door pods no doubt man.Those doors arent very deep. Pods be the way to go for sure

 

[Bobbytwonames 5,000+ posts]

He would be around $350 bucks with a well made tuned enclosure and a beefy sub with what Ive recommended for his 4ga supply also.He can reuse that sub and enclosure later on more power if or when he decides to upgrade his electrical, and amp/amps

What mono amp did you suggest? The system that I suggested to him would do circles around your suggestion.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

I was pointing out something that'd do what he wanted...personally I'd drop all the rear speakers and use the freed up channels for mid bass drivers up front...

Ya.. Back in the day my oldest brother had a black 5 spd a Taurus Sho with a turbo on it, and he kept going through some rear deck speakers pretty quick.After the second set.. he left them out while saving for another set(6x9s) and he liked the sound of the JBL GT 10s I put in there on an Autotek BTS 7150. Later he got more 6x9s. I made a cap out of 1/4" plywood and paint black to match inside of truck(Picky Brother). Later he didnt like the sub sound. Removed them and he was happy with it. Thats when we found the cones being destroyed by the pressure from subs on the second set removed looking at them.I went through my share of Fords back then.. but I liked that car.I still waxed him with my 92 Integra 5 spd though,LOL

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

What mono amp did you suggest? The system that I suggested to him would do circles around your suggestion.

I didnt.. Use the sub ch he has now on the amp he has until he upgrades his electrical, and saves funds to do so, Its supposed to be 700@2ohms on paper.Even if it does 500rms. it will still be better than the subs he has and supply that single sub and tuned box for now without shelling out $1k at the moment. He can save and buy some power later after he gets electrical upgrades done and that sub and box at $350 bucks(spent now) will work in the future for him??

 

[Bobbytwonames 5,000+ posts]

I didnt.. Use the sub ch he has now on the amp he has until he upgrades his electrical, and saves funds to do so, Its supposed to be 700@2ohms on paper.Even if it does 500rms. it will still be better than the subs he has and supply that single sub and tuned box for now without shelling out $1k at the moment. He can save and buy some power later after he gets electrical upgrades done and that sub and box at $350 bucks(spent now) will work in the future for him??

My stuff was $620 and that gave him two solid amps and two solid subs. What am I missing. He can always upgrade his box if he wants to. A stock electrical system can handle what I proposed.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

What mono amp did you suggest? The system that I suggested to him would do circles around your suggestion.

Most deff would,, But Not everyone has a $grand/$1k to spend at the moment. He will need electrical up grades//Proper wiring 0ga, change big3 up,a secondary battery, enclosure built,and tuned, two subs, two new amps,new distro block for dual supply needs,extra ground wiring,maybe extend RCAs and possibly relocate amp settings. Im only recommending spending $350 bucks at the moment on sub duty that he is seeking/ wanting more of. Utilize what you have now and save for a better planed out system is all Im suggesting, and recommending at the moment. Not to spend a grand at the moment, Might be all he needs?Simple enough to add more power later with funds saved and planed for and at the least that sub will beat that car to death on the recommended supply and properly tuned enclosure>??

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

My stuff was $620 and that gave him two solid amps and two solid subs. What am I missing. He can always upgrade his box if he wants to. A stock electrical system can handle what I proposed.

Thats a SENTRA..LOL Maybe,Maybe a 110 amp alt stock and a little 525CCA lead battery??Nice choices on the gear, Existing enclosure is quite questionable for the subs chosen(if it doesnt start to fall apart eventually start leaking) but deff he will need to do some electrical to supply for that demand in that car.. No Doubt. I am proposing using what he has now without an overture expense at the moment

 

[Bobbytwonames 5,000+ posts]

Thats a SENTRA..LOL Maybe,Maybe a 110 amp alt stock and a little 525CCA lead battery??Nice choices on the gear, Existing enclosure is quite questionable for the subs chosen(if it doesnt start to fall apart eventually start leaking) but deff he will need to do some electrical to supply for that demand in that car.. No Doubt. I am proposing using what he has now without an overture expense at the moment

My two HD 8's on a Sundown SIA3500 @ 2 ohms (3,000 watts). 1962 VW Bug with a 55 amp alternator and one 18 ah of lishen lithium. 142.9 @ 33 hz. before break in.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

My two HD 8's on a Sundown SIA3500 @ 2 ohms (3,000 watts). 1962 VW Bug with a 55 amp alternator and one 18 ah of lishen lithium. 142.9 @ 33 hz. before break in.

And thats adding more supply for the demand. In all regards.. That amp he has,he prob needs just more power for the substage?? It may only be putting out 400rms at best? May be cheaper just to swapp the amp out Like the Apex 5ch that Andy mentioned in an earlier thread, That would be the cheapest way to go atm, and still pull the reard\ deck speakers to introduce the bass into the cabin area?

Audio Apex CAB-M165 5 Channel Car Amplifier 1600 Watts RMS

Audio Apex CAB-M165 5 Channel Car Amplifier 1600 Watts RMS

caraudiobargain.com

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

My two HD 8's on a Sundown SIA3500 @ 2 ohms (3,000 watts). 1962 VW Bug with a 55 amp alternator and one 18 ah of lishen lithium. 142.9 @ 33 hz. before break in.

I remember seeing that VW. that was pretty Badd Azz

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

I think for the $.. Id pull that SSTREAM amp and spend the funds on the Apex and run it!!

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

He could add a small 600 Kinetik battery later if he needed too or a 1200 even

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LUBQ4I/?tag=caraudiocom-20