Last box was a fail. Please help with new build

[L1ttlet]

This box build is something I'm learning from... I was originally liking the way it looked and turned out. But I was not aware of the 5/8" materials being used, with those large panels and the power you're planning I don't know why you chose 5/8" thickness, the bracing was a decent idea but with the panels so large and whatnot it probably will flex some.... especially once you add power. Even .75" braced with a double baffle would be an improvement and likely be sufficient I feel, I might leave the doweling at the store and use something with more contact area as the panels are so large, Doing that worked well in the last enclosure I did for my ride and its single ply with large panels as well.

Of course, since you're looking to absolutely kill any vibration doubling up the materials will be best since you are keeping the amps where they are. 

However you do it those amps are in a less than optimum mounting position... that's for sure. I'm in the same boat mounting-wise but only cause I chose to be.

Sure... I got some vibration, but it's minimal with no actual flex.

Trying to get rid of ALL the vibration might not be possible... so consider that when you finally wrap this up... I did and it's a chance of failure I suppose but one I'm willing to run.

ah yeah, it's definitely a learning experience. I basically did the 5/8 mdf for weight reduction and I  cut the supports to 6inches and rounded out middle. All my builds have been 5/8 thick. I'm thinking for anything around 1k watts that may suffice with proper bracing. If ya check my box build post I  remounted the amps off of box and still they vibrate. I'm thinking the only way is to build a stronger box that won't vibrate as all and mount them to it. What do u brace ur box with?

 

[shredder2]

What do u brace ur box with?

I used cutoffs rounded over for airflow, vertically and horizontally where the panels were large because I felt they'd do the most in those locations.

It's only .75" single ply, single baffled (the double thick corner panel is there as I had to fab something cause I ran short on material) with an around 30lb driver on 2Kish so everything is solid. I had a little more power on the last vehicle/build and it was .75" single ply and baffled with 60lb of drivers but it was braced and configured (center port) in a way that worked out well with the rack mounted solid but still on the box sort of...

 

 

[L1ttlet]

Boxes look good and solid. I see the amp rack with the two on hinges to hide all the wires? Nice. The amps didn't see any vibration at all in that position? The one with amp mounted directly to there is still no vibration on amp? 

 

[shredder2]

Ah... there was MINIMAL vibration... very slight, I felt like it was very solid and had no detectable flex but vibrations... sure.

Hell everything in that Blazer flexed to some extent... but the box flexin'... nah

I had a total failure with a previous enclosure, I tried to build after a major Ischemic Stroke and I should have known better as my skills and judgement were diminished. The box bracing and back wall came apart internally and had some flex appear, I never heard a thing or noticed until it started playing a weird 50-60hz "death note" at high volume and upon closer inspection this happened...

The vibrations from the failed box and excessive heat from pushing the amp hard in Phx caused the board to walk 3/16" out of the Heatsink and something failed at that point.

Jeez it was loud AF playing that "death note"... I just removed my main fuses, changed my drawers and got a new amp... Never again I hope to hear that sound...  :suicide:

Once I recovered a bit more from my medical condition I was able to build something that was constructed well... live and learn

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

My bad I  missed those. So subs are 3 10inch soundcube hdc3. 1200watts rms.

Amps is wolfram 3000.1 at .67 ohms and the wolfram 125.4 together amps gotta be almost 50lbs in weight. Big mofos.

Power is 2/0 awg ofc gp cable, xs power d3400 under hood, big 3, stock alt.

So maybe 1500watts rms system.

Box is 1.4 cubes per sub internal volume after port and all displacements.

I have those same amps. 30 lbs at most, nowhere near 50.

Your not running 1500...when it's more than that if your truly wired to .67 ohms which is believeable because of 3 subs.

 

[L1ttlet]

u do? How u liking those amps? Also do u have urs wired below 1 ohm? And no, highly doubtful that I  am feeding them more than 1500watts rms on stock alt. Can only turn head unit up to 15 outta a possible 28 before distortion. Anything over 15 and voltage drops way to low. Like down to 11 or more.  15 is thw sweet spot until I  can get some lto cells. 

They definitely weight more than 30lbs. I'll have that amp rack out soon.  I'll put them on the scale with a handtowel between. At least 40-50lbs. I can't seem to find their weight on wolfram sight,  u? 

 

[L1ttlet]

I have those same amps. 30 lbs at most, nowhere near 50.

Found the weight on SSA sight. Damn, my guestimation is spot on. Lol

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

lol That's shipping weight. By themselves is far less.

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

About 11 lbs.  I was gonna guess between 10-12 lbs. my GUESS is spot on.

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

u do? How u liking those amps? Also do u have urs wired below 1 ohm? And no, highly doubtful that I  am feeding them more than 1500watts rms on stock alt. Can only turn head unit up to 15 outta a possible 28 before distortion. Anything over 15 and voltage drops way to low. Like down to 11 or more.  15 is thw sweet spot until I  can get some lto cells. 

They definitely weight more than 30lbs. I'll have that amp rack out soon.  I'll put them on the scale with a handtowel between. At least 40-50lbs. I can't seem to find their weight on wolfram sight,  u? 

So your electrical is starving. Nice. Audio 1st before any electrical upgrades.

 

[L1ttlet]

So your electrical is starving. Nice. Audio 1st before any electrical upgrades.

Well damn. Idk, these amps feel heavier. They are nice. I really like them. 

I know. I need better electrical, actual just one h/o alternator would do, but I  have a chevy cavalier and just don't wanna buy  an expensive alternator (270amp I  was thinking) cuz I  don't  plan on having it much longer. The lto cells I  want, but again gotta sell some old stuff before I  can dump the money on it. Or tax time maybe.  That's all my electrical needs is one or the other. Either way I'm looking at around $500 more. Need to sell my old electrical and subs n boxes first. 

All in all though. I'd say I  haven't done very bad after only starting my car audio passion since Jan. of 2017. 

Nxt I  want to learn to recone subs and troubleshoot and fix amps. But first I  am fine tuning my box building. Still curious on ports on them, thickness to watts and different kinds.

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

Oh I gotcha, taking it easy until you can sell it for another vehicle.

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

Bass hits and box moves around the trunk.

Different wood isn't going to fix that, what you need to do is figure out a way to firmly secure the box to the floor of the vehicle if you want it to stay put.   That box looked sound enough with the bracing and all.  If panels are flexing add more bracing or double wall that side, if it's just the box itself moving work on bolting it down somehow.   IF you do redesign figure out how to leave yourself room to mount the amp not on the box.