Is this sufficient electrical?

[gimling]

I don't know where you heard that but stop repeating it please.

What do you mean stop repeating it?? you do not use max draw playing music your not playing constant tone, 65 amp draw is way higher than what you would draw playing loud music. its a ballpark figure to be more accurate. take the amplifiers RMS wattage Total multiply it by the efficiency rating on the amp then add that to the RMS wattage, divide it by the true output Voltage of your alternator to get MAX current draw if the Amp was plaiying constant tone, music is on average 1/3 of that so you can take that MAX and divide it by 3 and you have your average current draw on your alternator. I am trying to give an accurate description on how it affects his electrical system not just shooting out a sure yah that should be OK.

If you have information that states otherwise i would love to hear it but tellin me not to repeat something when you have no basis is nonsense.

 

[n2audio 5,000+ posts]

Generally if your going to be listening to music you can take and add up the amp rating on the fuses in you amps and divide by 2 and that will be your average draw on your system i believe kiver is 80total and polk is 50 so 80+50/2=65 amp current draw.

Probably a reasonable estimate of average full volume current draw. A lot better than just 100% of fuse protection that is frequently suggested.

You can try to nail it down with all sorts of qualifiers (which are just more guesstimates), but the variables due simply to how the user tunes/listens just can't be accounted for.

So I think half the theoretical max is as good an estimate as any.

 

[bubbagumper6 5,000+ posts]

What do you mean stop repeating it?? you do not use max draw playing music your not playing constant tone, 65 amp draw is way higher than what you would draw playing loud music. its a ballpark figure to be more accurate. take the amplifiers RMS wattage Total multiply it by the efficiency rating on the amp then add that to the RMS wattage, divide it by the true output Voltage of your alternator to get MAX current draw if the Amp was plaiying constant tone, music is on average 1/3 of that so you can take that MAX and divide it by 3 and you have your average current draw on your alternator. I am trying to give an accurate description on how it affects his electrical system not just shooting out a sure yah that should be OK.
If you have information that states otherwise i would love to hear it but tellin me not to repeat something when you have no basis is nonsense.

What you gave was a rule of thumb type answer, which is basically just a wild ass guess, I would hardly call it accurate. I don't know where you came up with this other formula but music being 1/3 the current draw of a tone is another wild ass guess which is highly subjective to the listeners music tastes. That may be accurate for someone that listens to regular rock or other normally recorded music but someone who listens to rap or any of the slowed/modified songs that get posted on the forums will have a much different experience. A lot of those songs basically DO have test tones in them. The bass notes are just solid sinusoidal notes, some held for much longer than average which will definitely violate your 1/3 rule.

Bottom line is, I don't like your guestimate...

 

[n2audio 5,000+ posts]

What you gave was a rule of thumb type answer, which is basically just a wild ass guess, I would hardly call it accurate. I don't know where you came up with this other formula but music being 1/3 the current draw of a tone is another wild ass guess which is highly subjective to the listeners music tastes. That may be accurate for someone that listens to regular rock or other normally recorded music but someone who listens to rap or any of the slowed/modified songs that get posted on the forums will have a much different experience. A lot of those songs basically DO have test tones in them. The bass notes are just solid sinusoidal notes, some held for much longer than average which will definitely violate your 1/3 rule.

I think you'd be surprised.

For one, I'm not sure you fully understand what a 0db tone is.

There's also impedance. Any given sub is rarely at nominal impedance.

Most bass heavy songs I hear have a kick at the front of the wave and fade into something relatively soft. If you measure that second (or so) of energy in the wave against a 0db tone of a similar frequency I would expect it to have significantly less.

The 1/3 "rule" isn't a rule at all. It's something Richard Clark mentioned years ago at carsound in a discussion about current demand and how much amplifier power could be run with a certain size alternator.

He said something to the effect of music with a crest factor higher than 1/3 could hardly be recognized as music. That may have been a bit of an exaggeration, but the point was made.

A few years back I had the chance to watch an auto electric shop's charging system analyzer run while I played Bass Mechanik at full volume. I was running two zed amps totaling right around 1200w rms.

The highest current draw measured was around 65A. It basically hovered from 40-60.

If you've seen JL's school of sound on Youtube - the highest crest factor of the samples they had was actually hard rock - of course that was due to the mid-range material, so in that case a monster sub amp wouldn't be much of a factor.

 

[silver07 10+ year member]

Well, I've got the kicker amp installed and played some older young jeezy songs and it did fine. Parked, headlights on, didn't dim at all. I think adding the extra grounds with the big 3 upgrade and using a good amp kit helped. Last time I skimped on the amp kit. This time I got the knukonceptz 4 gauge amp kit. We'll see what happens once I install the polk amp, it's a class a/b amp, hopefully doesn't cause too much of a dip.

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[silver07 10+ year member]

This a good batt? Don't think I need it. Car isn't dimming with ac and headlights on. Just wanted to know in case I do have problems after installing the 4 channel it's a class ab which I know isn't as efficient as the day class.

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[adulbrich 5,000+ posts]

This a good batt? Don't think I need it. Car isn't dimming with ac and headlights on. Just wanted to know in case I do have problems after installing the 4 channel it's a class ab which I know isn't as efficient as the day class.

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Looks the same as my Exide group 49's they are solid! Probably built at the same place