basswiigee
CarAudio.com Veteran
- Thread Starter
- #16
sometimes it runs 15.2, most other times... 13s some drops to upper 12s.... a couple times 15.5i only have 1 battery....
sometimes it runs 15.2, most other times... 13s some drops to upper 12s.... a couple times 15.5i only have 1 battery....
Agm batts are pretty sensitive to their charge voltageand here's my mystery,how can my stock battery handle it no problems and its almost 9yrs old and i've ran even more off it and its smaller and still no problems... i know the agm is better, why more problems....
no upfront batt., battery in the back was optima y.t, currently a new stock batt., big 3 done and everything in car, kicker true 0ga ofc, 140a alt, everything set w/dmm....I've had issues with the electrical on my cavalier. Finally got my voltage to stay up and keep my amp from clipping by moving my back yellowtop up front to the stock position and getting rid of my stock battery. With the stock upfront and yellowtop in the rear I had voltage issues. I do run a HO Alt. from excessive amperage. So yeah cavy is replaced by the cobalt pretty much. Maybe you got some electrical to look into too.
I'm just running 1500 watts and I barely achieve RMS without clipping with a HO alt, big 3 and everything 1/0 for the sub amp everything 4gauge for the speaker amp. I went through my connections the other day and some of them were showing corrosion, so I had to clean up a few of my grounds. I suggest upgrading electrical until you solve the issue.
lol... bought new stock batt... lol and saved a 114.00I'd stop buying agm batteries and use your stock battery if you're having no problems with it running your system
Well when I finally solved the issue, I got rid of my back battery altogether, it was unecessary and somehow causing the issue. When I would check the DMM on my front battery and the one on my back battery, the front was staying up above proper voltage, the rear was dropping slightly below. So I don't know what to say there, maybe the front battery being closer to the alternator gets charged quicker/better. I know with my Yellowtop it is really good about holding on to voltage above 12.6 for a while, like if I kill my engine, the batt will sit at around 13.3 or so for a while. So yeah you could try what I did and get rid of the rear batt altogether just to see if it solves your issue. Of coarse you have already solved it I guess. Just if I were you I'd try throwing the Yellowtop up front and just running that.no upfront batt., battery in the back was optima y.t, currently a new stock batt., big 3 done and everything in car, kicker true 0ga ofc, 140a alt, everything set w/dmm....
lol, there is no battery under the hood, stock battery is in the trunk... 13.1 is standard for y.tWell when I finally solved the issue, I got rid of my back battery altogether, it was unecessary and somehow causing the issue. When I would check the DMM on my front battery and the one on my back battery, the front was staying up above proper voltage, the rear was dropping slightly below. So I don't know what to say there, maybe the front battery being closer to the alternator gets charged quicker/better. I know with my Yellowtop it is really good about holding on to voltage above 12.6 for a while, like if I kill my engine, the batt will sit at around 13.3 or so for a while. So yeah you could try what I did and get rid of the rear batt altogether just to see if it solves your issue. Of coarse you have already solved it I guess. Just if I were you I'd try throwing the Yellowtop up front and just running that.
Did not know that, well that limits your solvable problems at least? (bad poker face)lol, there is no battery under the hood, stock battery is in the trunk... 13.1 is standard for y.t
lol, its cool, saved money on amp wire, and payed it right back out for alt to batt...Did not know that, well that limits your solvable problems at least? (bad poker face)