IB Install Help?

Couple different way to install subs quasi ib in a trunk car

through the rear deck

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In the floor

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Behind the seats

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All kinds of ways to do it. Just keep the front wave seperated from the back and be creative //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
Keep those front/rear waves separated. Cone is king! As far as param's, pay some attention to VAS and QTS for some hints at what would work well for you.

Hit me up and I'll try to answer anything you want or need to know.

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
i wonder if anyone has done an IB with an 8"......hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm

Yep , they call them midbass. an 8" ib sub is pointless considering cone area is the key to output IB.

Dave brooks had 10's ib in his kicks for a while.

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They have since been replaced with L8's //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
I detail the process in my build log. Mine is even removable.

Link in sig.

And technically, it's a trunk baffle, not a true infinite baffle. The trunk has an effect when closed that negates a true IB

 
I wanted to be able to swap baffles with ease. So I created a rectangular opening out of two 3/4" MDF layers cut to fit the trunk opening (bare metal). Resin, fiberglass, and Raammatt BXT II keep it solid, waterproof, and damped. I have 1/4-20 t-nuts in-between the two layers. The t-nuts allow me to bolt and unbolt the baffle without worrying about stripping screws. All this is well documented in the build logs.

Looking back, I should have made the bolt holes pass-thru to allow mounting the baffle from front or back. I can drill them out from the inside if necessary though. That's the only thing I would change.

Closed cell neoprene foam creates a seal as well as decouples the baffle. The baffle should be two layers if you run more power.

 
I wanted to be able to swap baffles with ease. So I created a rectangular opening out of two 3/4" MDF layers cut to fit the trunk opening (bare metal). Resin, fiberglass, and Raammatt BXT II keep it solid, waterproof, and damped. I have 1/4-20 t-nuts in-between the two layers. The t-nuts allow me to bolt and unbolt the baffle without worrying about stripping screws. All this is well documented in the build logs.
Looking back, I should have made the bolt holes pass-thru to allow mounting the baffle from front or back. I can drill them out from the inside if necessary though. That's the only thing I would change.

Closed cell neoprene foam creates a seal as well as decouples the baffle. The baffle should be two layers if you run more power.
Ya I read the whole thread... Idont if I have the skills for that lol

 
that was my first time working with fiberglass. don't be afraid, just do eeett! once you get going, it's pretty easy when cosmetics aren't crucial (carpet is very forgiving).

i had no plans, no guidance, i have never seen it done like that before, never seen a removable baffle before. i made it up as i went, inventing it. then i shared it with the world to help others improve on the design and give them something to inspire. the dates in my sound domain build log are real time, showing you what days i worked on it (nights and weekends). it smelled like resin for weeks though!!!

if you can use a drill, jig saw, and circular saw, you can do this. just make cardboard templates of the sides until you get the templates perfect. then trace and smooth the lines, then cut. i made my opening in four pieces because i couldn't get a single piece in place due to undulations and where i wanted the baffle.

wasn't much more work than making a permanent one, just a few more pieces. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

you could simplify it with a smaller opening, and then just have one larger square baffle that allows for a 10 or 12.

glad you like it. i love it. looking back, it seems like a lot of work, but now it's just there. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
that was my first time working with fiberglass. don't be afraid, just do eeett! once you get going, it's pretty easy when cosmetics aren't crucial (carpet is very forgiving).
i had no plans, no guidance, i have never seen it done like that before, never seen a removable baffle before. i made it up as i went, inventing it. then i shared it with the world to help others improve on the design and give them something to inspire. the dates in my sound domain build log are real time, showing you what days i worked on it (nights and weekends). it smelled like resin for weeks though!!!

if you can use a drill, jig saw, and circular saw, you can do this. just make cardboard templates of the sides until you get the templates perfect. then trace and smooth the lines, then cut. i made my opening in four pieces because i couldn't get a single piece in place due to undulations and where i wanted the baffle.

wasn't much more work than making a permanent one, just a few more pieces. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

you could simplify it with a smaller opening, and then just have one larger square baffle that allows for a 10 or 12.

glad you like it. i love it. looking back, it seems like a lot of work, but now it's just there. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif
I think I can manage that... how much output are you getting with it?

 
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