MiniVanMan
10+ year member
Senior VIP Member
That's an excellent approach. I definitely like your "90%" rule, and will use that myself in the future. I'm all about finding the point of diminishing returns, which is exactly what you stated as well. I don't find the need to use the most expensive gear. I find more satisfaction in getting good gear to sound great.You have been a very helpful to me, thank you.
I hoped I could do this on a reasonable budget. I'm a member of most of the major BMW forums and this model car of car is the one that is the most people find almost impossbile to upgrade to any great degree without spending large sums of money or cutting the car. Even then, most end up with mbquart and kicker. I don't have to own the very best on the planet but something that is a sizeable upgrade makes sense. Seas and Morel go a long way to that very purpose.
The dash kit has to be custom made for this car. I have looked at everything made for this car and there is NOTHING that makes any sense at all. As a matter of fact, the dash kist are down right idiotic. This model BMW is the e39 and while there may be more aftermarket parts for this body style than any car EVER produced, there is not a dash kit that does not look like a total hack and an after thought. Trust me, we have all looked. My only choice is custom made and this is yet another audio challenge here with this car.
I tend to follow the addage,."You get 90% of the sound from the first $1000.00 and then spend another $5000.00 to get another 5%." Close is good enough for me. Case in point is my sub. The ed10a needs very little power, works well in smallish enclosures yet is clean and punchy. Do I really need 2 12's? Not for me. No, I can't hit 20hz but a clean 30 is close enough for me and I can enjoy the car without chest pains. This car is my daily driver so SQ not SPL is the name of this game.
My son's car has been broken into 3 times to steal his stereo gear. His HU said, "I am expensive, please steal me." In spite of having alarms systems the crooks got away with what they could and left the car in broken glass. That's one reason my choice for HU was the Nak cd-400. Flashy it's not (no dancing dolphins on 7" LED) but has very solid clean sound and looks stock on the BMW. This HU will come out of my older BMW and it was never touched by thieves. Why would they steal what looks like a $50.00 radio?
I'm trying to be smart about all of this across the board.
I have a nephew now that wants me to put something in his car. I'm hesitant because I know it'll be stolen. So, I definitely know where you're coming from on that. I've got 16 years to worry about my own son, though (he was born 5 days ago. I know, shameless plug //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif ).
Anyway, a good start for your crossover points will be about 2000 hz for the mid and about 2700 for the tweeter. When tuning by ear, make sure you're sitting in the location that you'll be listening from. With the L15 raise the crossover point till you stop hearing an increase in midrange. Since these drivers will be quite a bit off-axis, I doubt you'll get much more than 2000-2200 hz out of them. And if you start to hear some high pitched screaming from them, turn the crossover point down a bit because you've found the cone breakup at 8k. You just want to get them high enough to mate up to the tweeter. The MDT 12 can handle 2500 hz, and you'll probably end up underlapping the crossover points. I run my setup at about 2.2k on the mid and about 2.7k on the tweet. Others I've talked to use 2k and 2.5k respectively (this is from somebody that uses and MDT12 as well).
All in all, you want your tweeter to pick up duties as soon as possible.
Man, I still really want somebody to try out that AC130 though. That just looks like a great mid. Of course I'm waffling at this point, and do so when planning my own systems.
