I seriously need some help

My orginal plan was to run the PPI on the front stage and the Opti 200.2 on the midbass drivers but there is no room in the doors for a midbass driver and unless I put those in the rear deack( not optimal) then I just won;t have midbass. There is Zero room in the kicks.
Now I'm thinking using the 200.2 on the front stage or just the A404 at 200x2.

Either way, two speakers up front and the sub.
I got that part. My point is, if you do go with an active set you'll have to have 4 channels of amplification. Thus, the reason I asked the question. You have the option of doing 50x4 all around, or having 2 amps deliver 100x2 and the other pushing mids @ 200x2.

It's your choice. If you have room and don't mind wiring up a 2nd amp, then that's fine. If not, then 50x4 watts will do fine for an active setup.

HOWEVER, if you want to go passive then that changes everything, and you only need to use one amp (the 200.2) on the front stage.

Active or passive is the major deal here. Then figure out what power if you go active. Until then, it's hard to suggest any component set, or individual speakers.

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
Haha, I'm slow but I'm getting there.

Ok, now here's the rub and this may change things from active to passive. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

My doors won;t allow anything larger than 2 5/8" deep, that's MAX with spacers.

 
Haha, I'm slow but I'm getting there.
Ok, now here's the rub and this may change things from active to passive. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

My doors won;t allow anything larger than 2 5/8" deep, that's MAX with spacers.
The depth doesn't matter for active or passive. You can find speakers in both categories that will meet those requirements, or not meet those requirements.

You're golden.

Give us time. I've got to go to the chiropractor and won't be back online for a while, but there are plenty here who can help. Hopefully we've got a good start here and others can just pick up & give active speaker suggestions.

 
I could pick up a 2 way active xover like this for under 100.00.http://www.audio-warehouse.com/web/mdl/OPTIX2B/detail.asp
You could, but your amps may suffice, along with the h/u's controls.

We need to know what your h/u can do as far as x-over points & slopes. Also, what your amp's specs as far as that goes, as well. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 
My HU has no eq. Only tone controls for high mid and bass and a seperate sub out.

The Opti 200.2 has built in xovers adjustable on the amp but the PPI does not.

I think I need an xover network anyway.

 
Just because you're relegated to a 5 1/4" driver does not mean you're stuck with no midbass options. There are some great drivers out there that will do very well in the midbass 80-100 hz area. Some that come to mind are listed with links as follows.

Seas L15

http://www.madisound.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi?cart_id=1885366.7477&pid=1038

Aurum Cantus AC130

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=296-404

The Seas CA15

http://www.madisound.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi?cart_id=1885366.7477&pid=1044

There are others, but those immediately come to mind. The CA15 will be the easiest to work with. The AC130 was tested by Zaph and had a Qts of over .6, even though the listed spec is .29 (which is still fine), so that's a great option in a car door. And the L15 is just an all around great driver if you have at least an 18db crossover. I'd put the L15 with the better midrange clarity, good midbass, but nasty cone breakup, hence the need for a high order low pass. The CA15 can naturally roll off on the top end making it very easy to work with, but midrange clarity is a little lacking. Midbass is good, but can be a bit bloated. The AC130 will have good midbass, and midrange clarity somewhere between the L15 and CA15, and be easier to work with than the L15.

Personally, I'd love to see somebody try the AC130, but the L15 is a great driver. If your tweeter amp can handle the crossover duty (i.e. has a high pass that can do at least 2.5-4k), then the CA15 would be great as you can run it just using a high pass on the amp at 80-120 hz, and let it roll off naturally, then blend the tweeter with the tweeter amp's crossover.

For tweeters, I'd suggest the LPGs for the Aurum Cantus and CA15. For the L15 the Seas Neo tweet (either aluminum or fabric).

 
Thank you! That's so many more options than I came here with. Wow, AC130 38hz -7000 out of a 5.25...sound pretty impressive to me or am I missing something?

Tweeters are another issue here. The space allowed is not very much. 1" wide and 1" deep is about all I can get if that. 25mm-28mm the installer said.

 
Wow, that's going to be tough. That's not much room at all. You said you have 1" deep to work with? Also, is there a grill in the way? Once behind the grill how much room side to side do you have to work with?

Maybe a flush mount won't work, but something recessed back behind the grill could, if there is an existing grill.

 
MiniVan,...DIY guy?

I just joined up over there. Glad you're here because I was needing someone to help in this thread with more knowledge about non-comp speakers than me.

Thanks for jumping in.

 
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