How can I make my sub kick clearer

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

i just pulled off a pic from online. Of course birch and pine ply is 1000x better than mdf.

Yeah...and more $$ too. I figured you snagged a pic online //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 

[loz88]

Does it sound like a thunderstorm of low boomy bass where it's supposed to hit hard and doesn't really have anything to do with the song

Kind of yes, you can tell it's to the beat, the low notes are very loud but the mid bass kicks and thumps are there but very quiet compared to everything else and so drowned out in all the low bass. It's almost as if the low bass continues longer than it should each time, instead of a clean hit then silence its more low bass - kind of hear a kick - more low bass. So it drowns out all the parts that are supposed to kick you in the back.

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

Sounds like you need to mess around with the amps' settings and/or HU settings to make it sound a lil better

 

[loz88]

[quote name='Jeffdachef']This is the T line box. You'll want to buy some design blueprints off @CSCStang who is the master of t lines. Whatever box you think of building will be sh*t in comparison sorry to say(the design is extremely important, you cant half @ss it with very limited knowledge). You box should just be close to the trunk/hatch lid firing the rear not forward to any ski hole...

[/QUOTE]

I actually can't have it in the boot, firstly in a bmw convertible it takes up the whole trunk which I don't want but the main reason is because the trunk is separated form the actual car you can't hear it when its in there.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Kind of yes, you can tell it's to the beat, the low notes are very loud but the mid bass kicks and thumps are there but very quiet compared to everything else and so drowned out in all the low bass. It's almost as if the low bass continues longer than it should each time, instead of a clean hit then silence its more low bass - kind of hear a kick - more low bass. So it drowns out all the parts that are supposed to kick you in the back.

no thats more of your 40 to 60 hz range lacking impact more than anything. Your trunk blocking stuff could be a good reason why those waves arent propagating through.

I actually can't have it in the boot, firstly in a bmw convertible it takes up the whole trunk which I don't want but the main reason is because the trunk is separated form the actual car you can't hear it when its in there.

Sounds like you need a 4th order blow through enclosure.

 

[youdoofus]

muddy bass can also be from too little power. Lack of cone control from a weak amp can cause the bass to be boomy and not precise. But the box suggestions are inarguable as well

 

[loz88]

muddy bass can also be from too little power. Lack of cone control from a weak amp can cause the bass to be boomy and not precise. But the box suggestions are inarguable as well

I did it! I had the amp lpf at 80hz but I switched it so I had it pass through on the amp and limited it on the head unit and now it is crisp and punchy. I also set the gain with a multimeter which helped too //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

No idea why it wasn't as expected when I had the lpf on the amp as I am guessing it should have the same end result

 

[THATpurpleKUSH 5,000+ posts]

i just pulled off a pic from online. Of course birch and pine ply is 1000x better than mdf.

You want 13 ply Baltic Birch or the equivalent with all ply birch and no air pockets, the 5 ply bullshit that Home Depot and Lowe's sell is filled with air voids and only the outer layers are birch, the middle layers are usually a low grade poplar or pine.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

You want 13 ply Baltic Birch or the equivalent with all ply birch and no air pockets, the 5 ply bullshit that Home Depot and Lowe's sell is filled with air voids and only the outer layers are birch, the middle layers are usually a low grade poplar or pine.

11 layered pine at home depot is what i used for my wall, works extremely well. The birch at home depot isn't even birch its lower grade pine with a birch veneer and overpriced. Even the 11 layered pine is way better than the birch. Also There's a full on strength test between wood types and birch didnt win out by much when it came to strength and weight. No reason to spend 100+ dollars a sheet when something 30 dollars a sheet does basically the same job.

 

[THATpurpleKUSH 5,000+ posts]

11 layered pine at home depot is what i used for my wall, works extremely well. The birch at home depot isn't even birch its lower grade pine with a birch veneer and overpriced. Even the 11 layered pine is way better than the birch. Also There's a full on test and birch didnt win out by much when it came to strength and weight. No reason to spend 100+ dollars a sheet when something 30 dollars a sheet does basically the same job.

The HD I work at along with the other 4 in my area don't carry that 11 ply pine and they charge over $40 for the crappy birch veneer ply. I get 13 ply baltic birch for $60 a sheet from the local lumber shop.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

The HD I work at along with the other 4 in my area don't carry that 11 ply pine and they charge over $40 for the crappy birch veneer ply. I get 13 ply baltic birch for $60 a sheet from the local lumber shop.

yeah you are way too lucky lol with that 60 dollars a sheet.

the baltic birch at our lumber shops (all of them) are not even fully 3/4 thickness and they charge over 130 dollars a sheet. fk that.

I'll stick to 11 layered pine for 30 buck and its even lighter, never had kind of box flex with 400lbs worth of subs.

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

I spent almost 100 bucks for the t-line enclosure material. It's def not Lowes or HD BS....got it from a way diff high quality wood grade store, Dunn Lumber. I think it is 11-12 layers.....but that's how many layers true baltic birch should be...between 11-13.