Help With 2 12" Subwoofer System

[Lennox]

Currently I have This box for an older model Sony Xplod and Pioneer which are svc 4-ohm so together they are getting about 600 RMS. I am running a hifonics Glx1400.1D with 4 gauge wiring. I want to get new subs for a better sound quality system and hope to improve the loudness as well. I was thinking about getting two Alpine SWR-12D4's(type-r's) and wiring it to 1-ohm. It'd be 300 for the pair from sonic. Then I planned on buying 2 bags of 20oz polyfill to put a bag into each chamber of the box to help increase loudness. My questions are 1. Would these be a good choice for subwoofers for that price or is there something I should get instead for my goals? Reading through the forums I saw a few people posting about Soundqubed and I could get 2 HDS312's for the same price which are 1200w "SQL" subs. I want subs that are durable and are going to hold up well even though i'm not pushing them to their limits. I think a lot would be an upgrade from the current subs but I just want to make sure i'm making a good decision. And my second question is I just have a stock alternator, would I be okay running that system with a stock alternator or is it a must for me to get a H.O. alternator? Thanks for your guy's help! I don't know much about car audio so sorry if I left anything important out

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[winkychevelle 10+ year member]

The type r line is quite good for the money and they will be fine on that amp.

for 1ohm I suggest doing the big 3 upgrade and maybe adding a small batt in the back.

I would be careful with that amp because it wont put out 1400w. Maybe 1200w so realistically id set it for 1000w and start savinv for a bigger amp

 

[MXcarAudio]

i suggest going with the soundqubed, i saw this box in ebay its kinds decent, your box port seems very very small, and i agree big 3 batt at the back and voltage meter and make sure somebody sets your amp with dmm so u wont clip them good luck

Dual 12" Ported Custom Hand Built Subwoofer Enclosure New | eBay

 

[mylows10 5,000+ posts]

Get a custom box. You won't regret it

 

[akadj 10+ year member]

First thing you need to do is get bigger wire.

A single run of 4 gauge is OK up to 750/1000 watts but you already want more output, I'm not saying that bigger wire is going to get you more SPL right now but by the sounds of it you are going to end up upgrading so you might as well start now with power wire.

Either of those drivers are going to be good, I like the FI x12's personally.

As for the alternator, it depends on your vehicle. My Cadillac Escalade comes stock with a 220 peak 145 idol alternator.. Honda civic might be 65 amp know what I mean. I run 2000 RMS with my stock alternator and a single AGM battery and never dip past 12v

 

[Lennox]

Okay, so currently I don't have much money but would like to upgrade. I know that setting gains too high will cause the amp to try and push more power than it can and send clipped signals which will ruin subs.

Is there a downside to having gains lower than they potentially could be?

I.E. buying either type-r's now or the soundqubed subs I mentioned and setting the gains to like 1/3 so that they don't get as much power, and running my system like that for about 6 months until I get cash to do the big 3 and possibly the battery upgrade.

Then I could still get better sq for the time being until I can get the upgrades and my car can handle pushing 1000+ watts.

 

[akadj 10+ year member]

There's no problem with setting the gains lower, setting your amp with an oscilloscope is the best thing though

 

[Lennox]

There's no problem with setting the gains lower, setting your amp with an oscilloscope is the best thing though

When I read this I think you're saying it will be fine on the subs to have the gains lower, do you think that it will be fine on my cars electrical system until I get those upgrades?

 

[MXcarAudio]

get a volt meter and make sure you stay above 12 volts, connect the volt meter to the amp

 

[akadj 10+ year member]

When I read this I think you're saying it will be fine on the subs to have the gains lower, do you think that it will be fine on my cars electrical system until I get those upgrades?

I don't want to sound like a smart ***... But your running an amp that's only going to draw 50amps of current at best? You don't have to worry about that yet.

You can beef up your current grounds at the battery and power coming from the alternator with 4 gauge if that's all you got.. Something is better then nothing.

Make sure you have good grounds and power and your set. Ive ran 1000 RMS off 4 gauge.. But that's pushing it in my opinion.

 

[MXcarAudio]

ive ran 4 ga on 1700rms sub amp and still fine

 

[Lennox]

I don't want to sound like a smart ***... But your running an amp that's only going to draw 50amps of current at best? You don't have to worry about that yet.
You can beef up your current grounds at the battery and power coming from the alternator with 4 gauge if that's all you got.. Something is better then nothing.

Make sure you have good grounds and power and your set. Ive ran 1000 RMS off 4 gauge.. But that's pushing it in my opinion.

You don't sound like a smart ***. I really don't know much about car audio. But people have said to do big 3 and battery upgrade to run @1-ohm which would send 1400watts according to Hifonics but someone prior mentioned it would only push 1-1.2k . I just want to get better subs and if I need to do big 3/ another upgrade to be able to run my system at this I will I just can't afford to do it now. Thats why I was making sure that it would be fine to just have my gains lower so that I don't have problems but still have a sound upgrade now until I do a big 3 and maybe battery upgrade then blast them daily.

 

[akadj 10+ year member]

**** my bad!!

I mixed this post with someone else's.. You will be drawing like 80- 100 amps of current.. Just wanted to clarify