Thanks for your interest, Whitemax.
When you say get the alternator tested, do you mean just take the vehicle to AutoZone or O'Reilly and have them test it, or does it need to be brought to an actual auto mechanic's shop. Only reason I say that is that I have been told by a few folks that the tools that AutoZone and such have to test batteries and alternators will not work correctly on higher output alternators and AGM batteries.
I'm going to try to spend some time today re-checking wiring and just making sure that every single thing is "perfect". Problems like this always frustrate me, because while it could be something "big" like the alternator or an actual part that is messing up, it could also be something as "small" as a connection just slightly shorting out somewhere.
Actually, I'm curious to see if the fosgate amp turns back on when the HU comes on, as well. The other day, that is one reason why I was so stumped. All of the amps shut down even though there was power going to them and the HU was turned on. My first thought at that point was that the fuse in the HU blew, but that couldn't be the case because the HU would have turned off completely. So, then I'm wondering how I could have possibly lost the signal in the remote turn on. At the same time, it could have been that the amp went into protect mode and shut down. I'll be interested to see.
Negolien -- The amp on the side with the un-blown fuse seems to be ok. The amp that WAS on the side where the fuse blew was a kicker amp. I don't know if it is ok, but from the amount of smoke that poured from it, I'm guessing not.
I had a RF 801S on that side as of yesterday afternoon. There is no fuse in the distribution block at this time. I took it out when I shut things down the other day. However, that amp is showing 9.6 volts across the B+ and Ground inputs right now, even with only the ground cable, and no others, plugged into it.