Help me choose subs Camaro SS

[BOOMINGRANDPA 5,000+ posts]

Nice, those do take a small box. How do you like those Champion Pros? I've heard GREAT things about those and actually was going to buy them but they don't make a dual 2 ohm version. And the RMS might be a little low for my amp.

yeah they good subs tad higher than others in that rms range but they have good xmax which can help u in small sealed box

 

[The_Grimy_One 10+ year member]

Yes as he stated they are the Infinity Kappa 120.9W. I have them posted on here. I would say they are very comparable to the IDQ. I haven't heard many good things about the new Type R. Maybe if you can find the older generation.

 

[BOOMINGRANDPA 5,000+ posts]

Install going in my 2010 Camaro. I have a vehicle specific box at 1 cuft per chamber sealed, 2 12" subs. I am limited to a 6.5" mounting depth. Power will be supplied by a Hifonics brx 2000.1d which puts out 2000W at 1 ohm and 1400W at 2. I am going with a 2 ohm load.
So far I like the Image Dynamics IDQ12 and the Alpine type R. Thoughts between these 2 and what other good options are there? I've been out of car audio since the early 2000s and am getting back in.

i musta been asleep when i replied to question about pioneers i was talking about the dc subs in that reply.. yeah man the pioneer pro 3003 is the most under rated sub in the world peeps just don't believe pioneer can make a good sub i guess + it's $70 on ebay because they only make 12" d4 u right on that but i'm running 930 rms to mine sounds good.. and sealed it would just have better sq., if u get the pioneer and want something else later u won't be out but $140 for 2 subs and u can sell them for $100.. i came back to tell u to look at ct sounds hydro it take small box 6" depth $135 600rms (like the pioneer) but it has 16.5mm xmax 3 more than pioneer better for sealed maybe..

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

I've considered going to 1 ohm but 2 is substantially easier on my cars electrical system.

its a hifonics amp its a power hog amp no matter what the ohm load. You are getting 1100 actual watts at best at 1 ohm. so at 2 ohm power, you will be seeing around 500-600 at best before accounting in box rise.

 

[Aaron0731]

its a hifonics amp its a power hog amp no matter what the ohm load. You are getting 1100 actual watts at best at 1 ohm. so at 2 ohm power, you will be seeing around 500-600 at best before accounting in box rise.

Either way the load is substantially less at 2. And it's been bench tested and is CEA compliant. Your numbers are wrong.

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[BOOMINGRANDPA 5,000+ posts]

Either way the load is substantially less at 2. And it's been bench tested and is CEA compliant. Your numbers are wrong.

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cea only tested 4 ohm loads., some companies made sure amp did rated at 4 ohm but may only gain 300 more rms down to 1 ohm just so they could get that rating..

 

[Aaron0731]

cea only tested 4 ohm loads., some companies made sure amp did rated at 4 ohm but may only gain 300 more rms down to 1 ohm just so they could get that rating..

Yes and at 4 ohm it's rated at 700 W... And again it's been bench tested.

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[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Either way the load is substantially less at 2. And it's been bench tested and is CEA compliant. Your numbers are wrong.

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You are a friggen noob if you believe that CEA bullsh*t. Its not been bench tested at all at 1 ohm by cea because they dont do anything other than 4 ohm. if you dont know the difference between 1 and 4 ohms, it basically shows if your amp actually has balls or not.

CEA tests at 4 ohms, they do not test at 1 ohm. They do not factor in efficiency or anything else. At 1 ohm efficiency tanks and actual power output is strained depending on the caps/mosfets quality in the amp. Hifonics do not do well under 14.4 volts niether do they do any rated power at 1 ohm. Its been proven over and over by almost anyone thats owned a hifonics along with the most legit test out there right now which is the AD-1 amplifier dyno which actually tests real RMS output at a resistive 1 ohm load to clipping.

If you've been around you know that the BRX line is one of the worst brutus lines compared to the BXI, BRZ and BRE which actually did close to rated power. I OWNED two brx 2400s. supposedly 4800 watts right? It got completely and utterly stomped out by a DC 3.5k which is a legit 3.5k on the amp dyno The two brx 2400s couldn't even come close to the amount of output the DC amp put out without clipping and dirtying the signal and guess what? The best amps in the competition world are not CEA certified.

Here's a test of the brutus ELITE which basically costs way more than the brx and is of much MUCH higher build quality, CEA certified and everything. Rated for 1700 watts rms and what did it get? 1199 watts at 1 ohm on EXTREMELY good electrical. If the voltages were around 13.8v like most peoples rides rest at, he'd be more around 1000 ish watts. the BRX series are a lot less louder than the BRE series from direct swaps so yes my power numbers are pretty spot on if you factor in these REAL results at 1 ohm loads.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

literally i was like you bud thinking hifonics did rated power until i actually used amps that had A LOT of clean power and ACTUALLY did rated. The sound quality difference was massive as well Hifonics had a very hollow sound along with having a roll off below 30hz. The DC 3.5k sounded every way cleaner, played down to the low 20hz range. Nothing was changed box tuning and everything else was constant just an amp swap and properly tuned gains afterwards. Subsonic filter was off for both.

My buddy's system in his ford explorer, we tested and direct swapped a hifonics brutus 2200.1 against an audiopipe 1500.1 guess which one's louder and can play lows better? the 1500.1 and it costed way less

If you had the old hifonics then you are fine however the new lines are pure junk basically borderline boss/power acoustik/planet audio stuff. Anyone and everyone that knows anything about audio knows to stay away from hifonics. Its not too late to stop drinking the kool aid bud.

 

[shredder1 10+ year member]

Hi-Fonics... LOL... I run cheap amps bud... but if you believe that CEA logo... Lots of small box subs out there, I'd just look at excursion, build quality and sensitivity myself... Sub build quality is a must if you really have 2k... (Cast basket, 2.5" 4 layer VC min. and woven tinsel leads)... but I'm a noob as well ... What do I know? Hey man if you got a 2k amp run dual 4's and let that amp eat!... Then meet someone with a DC 2K and see the difference... personally, if I had that amp and I was using a sealed enclosure I'd go with this one... https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_77324_RE-Audio-SCX12v2-SCX-12-v2.html ... No woven tinsels here but Great x-max for the price and they're small box subs. A pair of these should do the job... I think... just don't clip them too much!

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

Yeah CEA is BS. They send in one amp that makes the numbers and they get to label the line CEA certified. There was a time it meant something, now it's just a scam. None of the top amps bother with it.

 

[shredder1 10+ year member]

It's probably like the QC where I used to work... You pay to be "certified"... but there is no real enforcement except consumers! Check the hottest brands competing and there you'll find POWA!

 

[Aaron0731]

You are a friggen noob if you believe that CEA bullsh*t. Its not been bench tested at all at 1 ohm by cea because they dont do anything other than 4 ohm. if you dont know the difference between 1 and 4 ohms, it basically shows if your amp actually has balls or not.
CEA tests at 4 ohms, they do not test at 1 ohm. They do not factor in efficiency or anything else. At 1 ohm efficiency tanks and actual power output is strained depending on the caps/mosfets quality in the amp. Hifonics do not do well under 14.4 volts niether do they do any rated power at 1 ohm. Its been proven over and over by almost anyone thats owned a hifonics along with the most legit test out there right now which is the AD-1 amplifier dyno which actually tests real RMS output at a resistive 1 ohm load to clipping.

If you've been around you know that the BRX line is one of the worst brutus lines compared to the BXI, BRZ and BRE which actually did close to rated power. I OWNED two brx 2400s. supposedly 4800 watts right? It got completely and utterly stomped out by a DC 3.5k which is a legit 3.5k on the amp dyno The two brx 2400s couldn't even come close to the amount of output the DC amp put out without clipping and dirtying the signal and guess what? The best amps in the competition world are not CEA certified.

Here's a test of the brutus ELITE which basically costs way more than the brx and is of much MUCH higher build quality, CEA certified and everything. Rated for 1700 watts rms and what did it get? 1199 watts at 1 ohm on EXTREMELY good electrical. If the voltages were around 13.8v like most peoples rides rest at, he'd be more around 1000 ish watts. the BRX series are a lot less louder than the BRE series from direct swaps so yes my power numbers are pretty spot on if you factor in these REAL results at 1 ohm loads.

And it's 700W RMS at 4 ohm. Again your numbers are ****. And it's been bench tested. Not sure what else to tell you.

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[Aaron0731]

literally i was like you bud thinking hifonics did rated power until i actually used amps that had A LOT of clean power and ACTUALLY did rated. The sound quality difference was massive as well Hifonics had a very hollow sound along with having a roll off below 30hz. The DC 3.5k sounded every way cleaner, played down to the low 20hz range. Nothing was changed box tuning and everything else was constant just an amp swap and properly tuned gains afterwards. Subsonic filter was off for both.
My buddy's system in his ford explorer, we tested and direct swapped a hifonics brutus 2200.1 against an audiopipe 1500.1 guess which one's louder and can play lows better? the 1500.1 and it costed way less

If you had the old hifonics then you are fine however the new lines are pure junk basically borderline boss/power acoustik/planet audio stuff. Anyone and everyone that knows anything about audio knows to stay away from hifonics. Its not too late to stop drinking the kool aid bud.

On another note if you have an issue with my amp I don't care. That's not what this thread is about, so leave.

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[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

On another note if you have an issue with my amp I don't care. That's not what this thread is about, so leave.

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Heh, that'll never happen. He's one of the smartest guys on this forum. Knows his stuff very well.