help build this system

ekah

Senior VIP Member
398
3
hawaii
im helping a friend build a system

they own a 2014 scion frs

i was thinking for a small build

so maybe

https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-AVH-2330NEX-Receiver-CarPlay-Bluetooth/dp/B073D856LF/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1506854235&sr=8-1&keywords=avh2330nex+pioneer

https://www.amazon.com/12-V-3-D2-Sundown-Subwoofer/dp/B01CZ4M9RA/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1506854250&sr=1-1&keywords=sundown+audio+e+12

https://www.amazon.com/AudioPipe-APCL18001D-Monoblock-MOSFET-Amplifier/dp/B00B8VKW8U/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1506854295&sr=1-1&keywords=audiopipe+apcl-18001d

im not sure about this amp though no experiance but i heard good bang for the buck if youre not going over the top etc. i would wanna have a lot of play room of power but if theres a cheaper amp or at least a 1k rms amp out there thats around 150 that would be nice or anything that is good for the sub

 
Best bang for you buck with good quality.

P1000.1 - Precision Power Monoblock 1000 Watt Max Class D Car Amplifier

Precision Power P900.4 900-Watt Phantom Series Class D Full Range 4-Channel Amplifier

Best high quality components NVX X series.

Best bang for you buck subwoofer Alpine SWS, FI Alpha series, SSA Evil 8".

 
Best bang for you buck with good quality.
P1000.1 - Precision Power Monoblock 1000 Watt Max Class D Car Amplifier

Precision Power P900.4 900-Watt Phantom Series Class D Full Range 4-Channel Amplifier

Best high quality components NVX X series.

Best bang for you buck subwoofer Alpine SWS, FI Alpha series, SSA Evil 8".
i dont think anyone has referred me to alpine in awhile.

those amps are nice though i have the p900 never thought of the 1000 though

a lot of people like the sundown e

 
i dont think anyone has referred me to alpine in awhile.those amps are nice though i have the p900 never thought of the 1000 though

a lot of people like the sundown e
Type S is bottom of the barrel entry level. Type R is pretty nice in their class but probably not the best value at MSRP.

That all said, for not much more money than the Sundown E new you could pony up an extra 10-15$ and get the Dayton Reference over to partsexpress. Personally I wouldn't buy a woofer with stamped frame in this day and age.

 
Ekah,

I know the mainstream stuff is usually frowned upon and for good reason when compared to the uberground stuff but I have two Alpine SWS subs now and I'm impressed with the sq for a relatively low powered subwoofer. I recieved a 10" SWS for free, which I installed in a 1 cu ft ported box, built exactly to Alpine specs, on an older Alpine MRP450 400 watt RMS amp for a budget sq system and liked the accurate response from this woofer with its underhung VC. It prompted me to buy a 12" version for my CX5, which is in a sealed 1 cu ft box on 500 watts RMS. For the price I don't see anything better except the FI on sale for $150 now but that needs a lot more power too.

Really wanted the SSA GCON or DCON but they have been discontinued.

 
im helping a friend build a systemthey own a 2014 scion frs

i was thinking for a small build

so maybe

https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-AVH-2330NEX-Receiver-CarPlay-Bluetooth/dp/B073D856LF/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1506854235&sr=8-1&keywords=avh2330nex+pioneer

https://www.amazon.com/12-V-3-D2-Sundown-Subwoofer/dp/B01CZ4M9RA/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1506854250&sr=1-1&keywords=sundown+audio+e+12

https://www.amazon.com/AudioPipe-APCL18001D-Monoblock-MOSFET-Amplifier/dp/B00B8VKW8U/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1506854295&sr=1-1&keywords=audiopipe+apcl-18001d

im not sure about this amp though no experiance but i heard good bang for the buck if youre not going over the top etc. i would wanna have a lot of play room of power but if theres a cheaper amp or at least a 1k rms amp out there thats around 150 that would be nice or anything that is good for the sub
fi alpha good sub more sq, but E would be louder can u order from cab.com the $95 there.. yeah my ppi 1k is nice strong amp $169 wooferetc.com (idk what shipping is to u there) but even at 2 ohm it''' push fi or E really well in ported box if doing sealed (i wouldn't) but if u are get d2 (alpha don't have that) but sub may get warm in small sealed box running very long..

 
How did you figure that the fi alpha has more sq?
it's not a spl sub.. model just shows not as deep or loud as others.. as kr said alpha would sound better than my pioneer but less output may just be 1 db idk.. E dif not sq sub and i even saw a guy in a review say at 488rms (sounds exact so maybe he meant clamped idk) the E gain i think it was 1db over the sa with same power box and car., so makes me think E is louder not as liner as guys here would say.. fi stuff looks more like sq stuff not that anything can't get loud with right set up.. only reason i didn't get the alpha was i wasn't sure if that small spider would handle 900 rms, i didn't see any of the reviews saying they were running large box or lots of power so i was afraid it would bottom out maybe not..

 
it's not a spl sub.. model just shows not as deep or loud as others.. as kr said alpha would sound better than my pioneer but less output may just be 1 db idk.. E dif not sq sub and i even saw a guy in a review say at 488rms (sounds exact so maybe he meant clamped idk) the E gain i think it was 1db over the sa with same power box and car., so makes me think E is louder not as liner as guys here would say.. fi stuff looks more like sq stuff not that anything can't get loud with right set up.. only reason i didn't get the alpha was i wasn't sure if that small spider would handle 900 rms, i didn't see any of the reviews saying they were running large box or lots of power so i was afraid it would bottom out maybe not..
Did you model every port configuration in the range of suggested volumes? Did you take into account the differences in thermal compression or cabin gain or at least monte carlo some of these variables? Modeling is a best guess scenario. The parameters that are used to model response shift dramatically when the sub is in actual use especially QES as thermal fluctuations affect current flow and induced magnetic fields. You cannot take the models as gospel especially when you're discussing a delta of a couple dB for a vehicle application. At best you can get an rough idea of the shape of the driver response and vent machs and plan accordingly with loading and cabin gain.

That's a terrible reason to call the FI a SQ sub. It sounds like you consider any sub that has a low theoretical spl a SQ sub or vice versa. SQ is mainly install dependent when comparing two overhung drivers and even then processing will have a larger impact than inherent characteristics of a driver.

Please stop spreading crap information with a ton of "I thinks" without doing any sort of validation. You're doing the forum no favors. At the very least throw in disclaimers when you do state an opinion or offer advice.

OP what type of space do you have to work with and other details such as total budget and system goals?

 
Did you model every port configuration in the range of suggested volumes? Did you take into account the differences in thermal compression or cabin gain or at least monte carlo some of these variables? Modeling is a best guess scenario. The parameters that are used to model response shift dramatically when the sub is in actual use especially QES as thermal fluctuations affect current flow and induced magnetic fields. You cannot take the models as gospel especially when you're discussing a delta of a couple dB for a vehicle application. At best you can get an rough idea of the shape of the driver response and vent machs and plan accordingly with loading and cabin gain.
That's a terrible reason to call the FI a SQ sub. It sounds like you consider any sub that has a low theoretical spl a SQ sub or vice versa. SQ is mainly install dependent when comparing two overhung drivers and even then processing will have a larger impact than inherent characteristics of a driver.

Please stop spreading crap information with a ton of "I thinks" without doing any sort of validation. You're doing the forum no favors. At the very least throw in disclaimers when you do state an opinion or offer advice.

OP what type of space do you have to work with and other details such as total budget and system goals?
350 with sub and amp

 
u saying 1 sub? he could get ppi like mine it's like $169 woofers etc.. and he can get E12 on cab for $95 so even 2 with amp would be $359 some peeps love the ap amps some have the mess up pretty fast.. make sure which ever amp he gets get it from place that'll replace it if it breaks in 30 days. guy here had ap 1500 didn't work day he got it and jb tools (seller on amazon) wouldn't help him at all..

 
Assuming your guy is not picky about B stock, I personally would do a B stock Sundown SA 10 or 12 ported depending on space paired with a ppi p1000 at that budget.
i think they would like a brand new everything.

so if anything the ppi1000 for sure

but for sub either

sundown e or maybe the fi?

the cab we would have to pay 100 shipping fee to hawaii

so any other sub in the mix for you guys?

 
The Fi alpha is a cool sub, the only issue is you would be running it at 2 ohms, You won't be using the amp to max potential, but you will also be easier on your electrical. Ir should be able to handle abuse a bit better.

The Sundown E would be a very solid choice imo. It should be a little more efficient and would let you maintain a bit of headroom with your amp.If you go the E route make certain you set the gains correctly or you could end up blowing the sub if you're not careful.

 
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ekah

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