Help build for 02 Acura TL S/ Multi component set up

[sjgv]

First of all, I'd like to introduce myself, new to the forum. Started reading here since 2 days ago, this is the first time I'll install a system in a car and I'm very excited! (I have read the 101's and looked into builds and other threads that have answered many questions but I'd like to get specifics on what I have in mind now)

So I'm thinking of installing 2 HDS300 12" subwoofers by SoundQubed

which I can't actually find all the specs on their site but I assume is a DVC 4 Ohm driver (correct me here if I'm wrong plz) RMS 1200W peak @ 2400W

https://www.soundqubed.com/HDS300_c_34.html

And the pair of mids and twitters for the front doors

QP-MR6.5 RMS 100W peak @ 200W

QP-TH25 "SuperTweeter" RMS 50W peak @ 150W

https://www.soundqubed.com/Pro-Audio-_c_22.html

The original idea in my head is to use a 4 channel amp to power it all. The front channels for the set of Mids/Highs and the back channels for the subwoofers then connect the rear STOCK speakers to the HU and just pan them to the front a bit.

So my first question is: would it be better (better to me means more cost effective @ same levels of quality / ease of installation, tweaking) to use one 4 channel amp or 2 amps, one mono for the subs and either a 2 or a 4 for the speakers?

Second question: assuming I have a 4 channel amp, how does the power get distributed? I'm imagining using a crossover but can I then tell the crossover to only give so many watts to the speakers and so many watts to the subs proportionally? (so if I turn the volume up it will feed say 900W to my subs but only 75W to the car speakers.......I'm really confused here as you can tell, how the **** does that work/ wire this ****? >>> Deconstruction:

1.-do I parallel the Mid and tweeter components and take 'em into consideration as one unit?

2.-Once I figure that out, how does the power distribution work?

Okay, I think that's enough to get me started. Thanks in advance to anyone looking. I would appreciate links, diagrams, pics of your own or relational stories if you've wired your own stuff with this equipment or in this car. Thanks!

Click to read more...

 

[NASTY08IMPALA 5,000+ posts]

First of all, I'd like to introduce myself, new to the forum. Started reading here since 2 days ago, this is the first time I'll install a system in a car and I'm very excited! (I have read the 101's and looked into builds and other threads that have answered many questions but I'd like to get specifics on what I have in mind now)
So I'm thinking of installing 2 HDS300 12" subwoofers by SoundQubed

which I can't actually find all the specs on their site but I assume is a DVC 4 Ohm driver (correct me here if I'm wrong plz) RMS 1200W peak @ 2400W

https://www.soundqubed.com/HDS300_c_34.html

And the pair of mids and twitters for the front doors

QP-MR6.5 RMS 100W peak @ 200W

QP-TH25 "SuperTweeter" RMS 50W peak @ 150W

https://www.soundqubed.com/Pro-Audio-_c_22.html

The original idea in my head is to use a 4 channel amp to power it all. The front channels for the set of Mids/Highs and the back channels for the subwoofers then connect the rear STOCK speakers to the HU and just pan them to the front a bit.

So my first question is: would it be better (better to me means more cost effective @ same levels of quality / ease of installation, tweaking) to use one 4 channel amp or 2 amps, one mono for the subs and either a 2 or a 4 for the speakers?

Second question: assuming I have a 4 channel amp, how does the power get distributed? I'm imagining using a crossover but can I then tell the crossover to only give so many watts to the speakers and so many watts to the subs proportionally? (so if I turn the volume up it will feed say 900W to my subs but only 75W to the car speakers.......I'm really confused here as you can tell, how the **** does that work/ wire this ****? >>> Deconstruction:

1.-do I parallel the Mid and tweeter components and take 'em into consideration as one unit?

2.-Once I figure that out, how does the power distribution work?

Okay, I think that's enough to get me started. Thanks in advance to anyone looking. I would appreciate links, diagrams, pics of your own or relational stories if you've wired your own stuff with this equipment or in this car. Thanks!

You will need a 2ch or a 4ch for the mids and tweets and a mono with around 2500-3000 rms for the subs ..that being said the electrical needed to power that will cost another grand. ..ho alt and extra batts..now if ur not wanting to do that much electrical upgrade ..get a mono amp around 1k..which will be severly underpowering those subs, while thats not a problem it might make u want to change ur mind on those subs if ur not willing to push them to their full potential down the road...im pretty sure they sell both a 2 amd 4 ohm version of the sub....i run all audioque/soundqubed in my car and those mids and tweets sounds very nice and crazy loud when setup and installed properly in treated doors

 

[NASTY08IMPALA 5,000+ posts]

And yes on the 4ch or 2 ch u will have the ability tocset up each speaker with its own crossover point and level , otherwise known as running acticve..meaning there is no need for a external crossover..so make sure u get a amo that is active capable

 

[NASTY08IMPALA 5,000+ posts]

U can use diff methods to set levels of power put to each speaker ..using a range of tools from a dmm dd1 cc1 and a oscope

 

[sjgv]

And yes on the 4ch or 2 ch u will have the ability tocset up each speaker with its own crossover point and level , otherwise known as running acticve..meaning there is no need for a external crossover..so make sure u get a amo that is active capable

Sweet! that cleared things up, so if it has potentiometers to set levels I have a dmm I can work with, just needed to clear how that all worked. Thanks man, ALSO, thanks for mentioning the electrical overhaul of it since that is another question I had, I met a dude the other day that had 2 12" DD subs and rear and front DD speakers too and he had just his 99 Honda Accord stock alternator and a new battery...but you know, nothing super fancy. His system sounds clean! and it feels like he has plenty of room to WHAM! he had it blasting for quite a while without it giving out or distorting. Unfortunately I did not get the specs of his amp, I only remember him saying it was a 4 channel, how is this possible? wouldn't it all depend on my battery also? (assuming my alternator is healthy and pumping out 14 ~ 16 V out)

 

[NASTY08IMPALA 5,000+ posts]

Sweet! that cleared things up, so if it has potentiometers to set levels I have a dmm I can work with, just needed to clear how that all worked. Thanks man, ALSO, thanks for mentioning the electrical overhaul of it since that is another question I had, I met a dude the other day that had 2 12" DD subs and rear and front DD speakers too and he had just his 99 Honda Accord stock alternator and a new battery...but you know, nothing super fancy. His system sounds clean! and it feels like he has plenty of room to WHAM! he had it blasting for quite a while without it giving out or distorting. Unfortunately I did not get the specs of his amp, I only remember him saying it was a 4 channel, how is this possible? wouldn't it all depend on my battery also? (assuming my alternator is healthy and pumping out 14 ~ 16 V out)

i doubt he was running only a 4ch amp he probably had a seperate amp for the subs...as far as battery goes i would upgrade to a agm in the stock location amd then a big agm in the trunk as a secondary battery depending on how much power you choose to use

 

[NASTY08IMPALA 5,000+ posts]

Running anything over 1500rms total between both amps will require at least a secondary battery ..do you have a sams club close by?..if so they have great duracell batteries for cheap

 

[sjgv]

Running anything over 1500rms total between both amps will require at least a secondary battery ..do you have a sams club close by?..if so they have great duracell batteries for cheap

so something like this

http://www.amazon.com/PERFORMANCE-ALTERNATOR-2001-2003-2002-2003-1999-2001/dp/B00AY25IFQ/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1413748323&sr=1-2&keywords=acura+2002+high+output+alternator

and I do have a sams club nearby, do you think the duracell would be cheaper/ or better in quality/price ratio than this? Amazon.com: Kinetik HC600 BLU Series 600-Watt 12-Volt High Current AGM Car Audio Power Cell Battery: Automotive

+ the big 3 upgrade is all the overhaul I'd need to do right?

 

[sjgv]

NASTY I don't necessarily want to push the system to it's fullest, I know even 3/4 this **** is BANGING, I picked the HDS300's because for the price they seem to be the best built, and the ones that will give me the best sound quality (again for the price). With that in mind, would you recommend a different set up? different subs? different size? I also picked 12" because to me that's the minimum I think a realistic surface area to reproduce low notes but I've heard the 1500 series of DD 10's that did a good job so....yeah, open to suggestions!

My starting budget was $720 but that is quickly spiraling out of control so I'd like to keep everything under a grand preferably

For example how do American Bass TNT1244's stack up against SoundQubed's, if not that specific model how does American Bass stack up to SQ?

I am seeing the TNT's for $127 but again...been told they're as my buddy's favorite adjective goes, **** (he never substantiates why tho....lol) the reason I first looked into SQ is because they have relations with DD's is my understanding so....

 

[NASTY08IMPALA 5,000+ posts]

NASTY I don't necessarily want to push the system to it's fullest, I know even 3/4 this **** is BANGING, I picked the HDS300's because for the price they seem to be the best built, and the ones that will give me the best sound quality (again for the price). With that in mind, would you recommend a different set up? different subs? different size? I also picked 12" because to me that's the minimum I think a realistic surface area to reproduce low notes but I've heard the 1500 series of DD 10's that did a good job so....yeah, open to suggestions!
My starting budget was $720 but that is quickly spiraling out of control so I'd like to keep everything under a grand preferably

For example how do American Bass TNT1244's stack up against SoundQubed's, if not that specific model how does American Bass stack up to SQ?

I am seeing the TNT's for $127 but again...been told they're as my buddy's favorite adjective goes, **** (he never substantiates why tho....lol) the reason I first looked into SQ is because they have relations with DD's is my understanding so....

No the 300 series are fine for the price and a pair of 12s is what i would do in a custom box but with that budget by the time u buy a 4ch and a mono amp i dont think there will be m9ney left for serious electrical uprgrading..those amazon and ebay alts are garbage i wouldnt touch one with a 10ft pole..a solid ho alt will cost betweeen 400-600 bucks..and that battery is overpriced as well u can get a replacement for under the hood for 125 at sams or oreilleys and a large one for the back for 170 if needed...having said that i would get a 1000-1500 rms mono block and a small 4ch amp for the mids and tweets

 

[sjgv]

hmmm, yeah even with 2 small amps (a hifonics and jvc am looking at $355 for both which brings up the build to right about a grand w/o electrical overhaul) so now I'm thinking since I don't want that much power really I should get subs that have lower RMS handling (amidst other things like good spl sensitivity etc.), so I'm looking at the HDS200, can you guys comment on these, I am concerned the HDS300's are the most budget / quality ratio to truly get some sound quality. Can the HDS200's deliver clean hard hitting bass? is the build quality same as 300's? (the only difference I can see is the 2.5 inch coil which...would just mean they get hotter faster right?)

can you recommend any better ones for around the buck?

 

[NASTY08IMPALA 5,000+ posts]

hmmm, yeah even with 2 small amps (a hifonics and jvc am looking at $355 for both which brings up the build to right about a grand w/o electrical overhaul) so now I'm thinking since I don't want that much power really I should get subs that have lower RMS handling (amidst other things like good spl sensitivity etc.), so I'm looking at the HDS200, can you guys comment on these, I am concerned the HDS300's are the most budget / quality ratio to truly get some sound quality. Can the HDS200's deliver clean hard hitting bass? is the build quality same as 300's? (the only difference I can see is the 2.5 inch coil which...would just mean they get hotter faster right?)
can you recommend any better ones for around the buck?

Dont buy a hifonics amp unless its a brz and def dont buy a jvc amp..im sure a pair of the hds200 series will be fine...many users have had luck with them ...the sound they produce will be greatly influenced by the box designed for them ..ive ran every aq/sq product except the hds lines but ive been happy with them all..and yes the 200s have a 2.5" voice coil vs the 3" coil on the 300 series

 

[NASTY08IMPALA 5,000+ posts]

Ur best bet on amps is to check classified here and buy used ..theres always nice equipment for sale ..

 

[sjgv]

cool, I'm going to do some more research on the HDS212's since they seem to fit my budget and realistic listening levels/quality I'd like to achieve. If anyone else has any cents to throw on the HDS212's they are very welcome!

Another thing is, I'm thinking I am not going so much for level as much as quality (but I definitely want to feel the thumps in my chest! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif so even if it were to be underpowered would a HDC3.1 12" sound better and loud enough with say a monoblock shooting it 1100W than 2 HDS212's?

 

[NASTY08IMPALA 5,000+ posts]

cool, I'm going to do some more research on the HDS212's since they seem to fit my budget and realistic listening levels/quality I'd like to achieve. If anyone else has any cents to throw on the HDS212's they are very welcome!
Another thing is, I'm thinking I am not going so much for level as much as quality (but I definitely want to feel the thumps in my chest! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif so even if it were to be underpowered would a HDC3.1 12" sound better and loud enough with say a monoblock shooting it 1100W than 2 HDS212's?

On that power level a pair of 200 series 12s will outdo a hdc3