Help. 10W7-3 slsingle sub. Best amp??

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Ah, was just going to check on that. Single 3 ohm. For the money and to get the most out of this sub, get the H-KO2, puts out about 1200 watts at 3 ohms. Turn down the gains a bit, you'll have loads of power and your amp will not work hard to get you there.
Beautiful! Thank you!
 
Half-bridge in this group is the Korean Circuit board design. Full-bridge is what is commonly referred to as the Brazilian circuit board design. Used to be the inexpensive go-to watt for dollar amplifiers, until voltage issues came into play and they had significant thermal issues. Much of that has changed as the full bridge amps have evolved. With that evolution, the better ones are starting to cost as much as the others so much of their appeal (watt for dolar) has diminished somewhat. The full bridge amps are about half the size but require much more stable voltage. One of the appeals of the JL is it's regulated power supply, hard to overdrive or break. Unfortunately, it's a bit underpowered in this group.

I generally prefer to run my subs at higher impedances anyway, everything runs cooler, last longer and performance of any amplifier is most efficient and controlling at 4 ohms. You're close at 3 so power is important. I have the H-KO3, running at 4 ohms, 1500 watts to dual 400 watt RMS subs (RMS 800 total). I have the gains tuned accordingly and the amp barely breaks a sweat. THat's just how I prefer to set up my equipment. I'm loud as hell if I want too, but not concerned about extracting every little bit of juice to win some SPL competition.
 
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Well, I only understood about 75 percent of what you were saying. I would like something that takes up as little space as possible without compromising the sound quality. In a perfect world it would be black or red but that really doesnt matter much to me. I'm not sure about the meaning of the half bridge and full bridge are tbh.

Put it like this, the JL amps, those are full bridge amps. The Korean surf boards are half bridge amps that can also be strapped. They are two different ways to make power and to be honest, full bridge while it’s gets a bad name from the ones that are cheaply made and those who run stock electrical expecting it to handle a 8k and then cry about online when the amp blows, it’s the best way to make power in class D’s (my opinion of course). It’s cheaper, more efficient, uses half the amount of parts, and operates at half the voltage on the rails.
 
Let’s be honest. Even a cheaper 1 ohm stable full bridge amplifier is going to be fine running a 3 ohm load. A Taramps Hd3000 1 ohm makes 1140 watts rms at 4 ohms. It will give that w7 all that it wants and then some, and costs like $165 on Amazon. The only downside is that the built in crossovers ****. If you have a headunit with built in crossovers, you would be fine.
 
Let’s be honest. Even a cheaper 1 ohm stable full bridge amplifier is going to be fine running a 3 ohm load. A Taramps Hd3000 1 ohm makes 1140 watts rms at 4 ohms. It will give that w7 all that it wants and then some, and costs like $165 on Amazon. The only downside is that the built in crossovers ****. If you have a headunit with built in crossovers, you would be fine.
I'd still spend a little more if going full-bridge, like the Taramps Amplifier SMART 3 BASS , it's designed specifically to address some of the more glaring shortcomings of previous models and is still reasonable at around $250.
 
Half-bridge in this group is the Korean Circuit board design. Full-bridge is what is commonly referred to as the Brazilian circuit board design. Used to be the inexpensive go-to watt for dollar amplifiers, until voltage issues came into play and they had significant thermal issues. Much of that has changed as the full bridge amps have evolved. With that evolution, the better ones are starting to cost as much as the others so much of their appeal (watt for dolar) has diminished somewhat. The full bridge amps are about half the size but require much more stable voltage. One of the appeals of the JL is it's regulated power supply, hard to overdrive or break. Unfortunately, it's a bit underpowered in this group.

I generally prefer to run my subs at higher impedances anyway, everything runs cooler, last longer and performance of any amplifier is most efficient and controlling at 4 ohms. You're close at 3 so power is important. I have the H-KO3, running at 4 ohms, 1500 watts to dual 400 watt RMS subs (RMS 800 total). I have the gains tuned accordingly and the amp barely breaks a sweat. THat's just how I prefer to set up my equipment. I'm loud as hell if I want too, but not concerned about extracting every little bit of juice to win some SPL competition.
Definitely sounds like you are doing it right. I appreciate your help and wisdom on this. I’ve learned a lot in the last 2 days of joining this forum
 
See how badly I need help lol. I don't know what I'm doing. I'm definitely going to seek help with install and hoping you guys can point me in the right direction of the best possible amp used or new in the $300 range
 
In your opinion, would this amp be much better than this used Jl HD 750/1 that's $400. I feel like some people just want the JL for it's name but it seems like the DS18 has a lot more capability.
JL amps are really made well and last for sure, but there are so many other amps out there for a little less that will serve just fine for the money.
 
They look pretty...but that price tag don't fit what you're getting imo
The price doesn’t fit at all. If I had to have it, I’d rather get the standard version direct that uses small caps instead of less bigger ones and the other minor changes. Even then I still wouldn’t buy one 😅. I’d rather have a Korean made class A/B instead .
 
A buddy of mine showed up with one of these the other day, DAMN, 300 x 4 @2, sheesh! a bit on the large footprint side, but gee wiz...


To which I replied, for $55 you could get 9900 WATTS M A X POWER!


He didn't think it was all that funny!

:ROFLMAO:
 
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2400w x 4 peak and 120w rms x 4. That has to be world record dynamic right there 🤣.
A buddy of mine showed up with one of these the other day, DAMN, 300 x 4 @2, sheesh! a bit on the large footprint side, but gee wiz...


To which I replied, for $55 you could get 9900 WATTS M A X POWER!


He didn't think it was all that funny!

:ROFLMAO:
 
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