HCCA / H2 / Eclipse ti 15... Questions / Debate

[0ptikal 10+ year member]

Sup guys got a question for you. I've got a 91 chevy silverado single cab with bucket seats. I'm having problems hitting hard though and have tried all of the above subs. The h2's arn't impressing me and I've pushed them with both a viper 2500.1D / orion 2500.1 / JL 1000/1 / Orion Digital Reference 2100 / and a Hifonics Zues 6 series. I'm still not breaking the 130 - 140 mark.

Tried each amp with each sub, orion 2500.1 and viper 2500.1 and JL 1000/1 have all performed the best.

The elcipse took up the center console in my truck @ 6.1 cubic feet and hit decently but had to aim the woofer twords the ceiling so took some power out but was to massive of a sub to get twords the back wall. (15" ti) It hit the 135 mark. Then the viper killed the surround and i pulled it out and switched to an H2 15" with a sealed box. It hit ok but burned up in 20 minutes. Switched to ported box ( i don't know how to design ported box's and tune right) so had local audio shop build it. Sub burns up in about 30 minutes to 1 day and only hits 129.9 at best. This was aimed facing the back wall with about 2 inches of clearence. aimed twords the ceiling it wasn't even loud enough for me to hear almost like i mean 8" xplod loud. Guessing the port was slightly off the box is 3 cubic feet with about 1 1/3 " thick walls with mdf and glass. but because of space available the port could only be 14" wide and about 12" deep and about 2 tall. So pulled that out and put in an 8 year old orion 12" HCCA powered by the JL 1000/1. Purchased a box off ebay that was made by orion for this sub allegedly. It came I installed the sub and it's beat it's fricking *** off. I mean It's gotta be the loudest of all the above estimatedly about 140db. Getting db'd this weekend. And this sub is worn pretty bad as in the surround is so soft it's not funny no real support for the cone. I even put the 2500.1D orion on it now that i have gotten it back and it's handeling it like a champ - won't hit as low as the jl only 30 hz instead of the 25 but still beats it insanely had to turn the gain down is only getting 1400w RMS. any more and it starts to burp. But it doesn't make sense to me that the ti and the H2 can't hit as hard if not harder then a 8 year old sub. And the HCCA and the H2 are mounted in the same spot about 2 inches from the back wall.

The truck has a optima red top fed by a 150amp alternator which feeds a 5 farad alumnacap pro which is two inches from the amp feeding it directly with two 4 gauges. So it's not like the amp is getting starved power. The cab has been sprayed thickly with a sound deadening material, it has all new weatherstripping and seals so it's not like i have a pressure leak. But the 12's shaking the steering colum and contourting the dash and doorpanels. The eclipse came in second and the h2 was pitiful. I'm just at a total loss //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/omg.gif.05aa02c3095d6ce9338996654eca0863.gif If anyone could help me figure out what the problem is I'd really appriciate it.

The Truck can be seen here with the eclipse and the early h2 setups.

Click to read more...

 

[Tedro]

thats odd, isn't the Viper and the Orion 2500.1D amps the exact same or close to the same internally? I mean, they are made by the same company and all... I guess its up to someone to open them up and see the internals. Is their anybody that can back me up on this?

 

[0ptikal 10+ year member]

They are similar but the viper acocrding to DEI and I have tested it lol will run 2500w RMS at 2 ohm. the orion 2500.1 runs 2500 at 1 ohm. The viper was almost 2 inches longer and 2 inches wider then the orion also.

 

[drjjg 10+ year member]

Extremely poor install. And if you're burning up those subs, you are doing something very wrong.

First thing, set the gain correctly and don't overdrive your amp.

Step 2: Build a 3net cube box for the H2, give it 40sq" of port tuned to 30hz

Step 3: Fire the box in a good direction. Rear firing with 2" of space, well, I don't know why anyone would do that. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

Fire up, sub on passenger side, port on drivers.

Just a few things that you need to address. If you need anymore help, LMK.

 

[InhumanAcura 5,000+ posts]

I noticed on your sounddomain site you mentioned your trying to find another HCCA sub, I can sell you a 15 for like $120=shipping if your interested.

Your install seems to be the problem, no offense.

 

[SirSyko 10+ year member]

Thats strange, my R takes 1500 watts fine. Have you tried using a sealed box? Or getting a new car, lol. Yeah I know I had a truck with 12 facing the back with about 1.5 inch clearance and it sounded like crap, about as good as the 6.5 inch pioneer bazooka I had. Once I bought my car and put the exact same setup in there, (Xcept the box which was also bout 1.3 cube) it sounded muuuuuuch better.

 

[havoc06 10+ year member]

First off, thanks for stealing my avatar //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/satan.gif.9c6a335ed7aeeed3ee273e573f1fcaac.gif

Second, saying that the H2 is pitiful, is probably the most rediculous thing i have ever heard. I can tell you right now why your frying that sub. Because you have a 2500D that is not getting enough voltage, or you didnt ground it properly. That will send a square signal (clipping) and fry the sub instantly. Not even breaking 130 with an H2 15? Come on man, you HAVE to know something is terribly wrong. I can fart louder than that. Im near 155 with a single 15 H2 in a stock explorer. Build the correct box, ground your amps properly, make sure it doesnt drop below 12volts when it cranks, and youll love the thing.

PS Why in the hell would you put that sub in a sealed box?

 

[SirSyko 10+ year member]

Because he doesnt have that much space you moron. And if he is using two four gauage wires Im sure he would be doing the same with the ground right? Why not switch to 1 guage?

 

[havoc06 10+ year member]

Because he doesnt have that much space you moron. And if he is using two four gauage wires Im sure he would be doing the same with the ground right? Why not switch to 1 guage?

Ah an internet tough guy huh. Im the moron? You better realize how shit is before you come out with something like that. I said nothing of 1/0 wire. I know the amp has dual 4 inputs, i own 4 of them. But just because you use 4 gauge wire that does not mean you grounded the amp properly? Since you know so much and im the moron, tell me this? How many amps at full draw does the 2500D pull? Now equate that with the resistance im sure homeboy has plenty of in his grounding, couple that with an incorrect box, what do you get? An H2 that sounds like shit, and quits out faster than you on prom night. Let me guess, the h2 starting smoking, you got this really bad smell, and now the cone crunches when you push down on it right? What i said was to help him, cause i see dumb *** fools everyday blowing subs like H2s because they dont know how to wire an amplifier correctly. Just because you have a "ground" wire touching metal somewhere, DOES NOT mean that it is grounded correctly. Ground that 2500D solid, like to the frame or something. Make sure there is NO RESISTANCE. And how can someone be THAT pressed for room that they dont have room for more wire, i have 2 15H2s 2 2500Ds and an 8004 in the ext cab of my truck.

 

[0ptikal 10+ year member]

OK heres some more info and some answers to some of the comments. Yes the box is the probelm I've known that. But the only other place locally that will build a box wants $1500. for a MDF BOX!!! and CD audio is the only other place and that box was $300 the Eclipse box was the $1500. To be quite honest i **** with wood. Also i have no idea how to design a box's port with tuning the frequency. NEver had to build one before this is the first system I've done and It's my first vehicle so I don't think it's bad for my first system. Litterally all the stuff you have seen audio wise on my truck on the site etc has been since last january. As of the day i bought the first 2 w0 JL's was the first time I had even put a sub in my hand or done anything really car audio. Hell i had AC delco 4x6's! anyway back to the install. The box is shit. The amp was wired up for the eclipse orgionally so grounds have been the same for ever. IT's actually also part of the problem I am starving the amp. As in there is 1 4 guage going to the cap and then 1 ground then 2 4 gauges from the cap to the amp. I ordered 0 gauge and have had it for a while but the cap won't accept it. It only accepts 1 4 gauge input and 4 gauge outputs. Hence my next question would it be better ot get rid of the cap and get another deepcycle? The ground is directly to the floor. I was going to take it to the frame via drilling a hole in the floor getting wire through siliconing the floor and putting my carpet over it. Actually two 0 gauge was the idea but was waitign to see what i was going to do as in the cap. Also sirsyco ya the get anotehr vehicle was my idea but can't find anything i like or available locally in either an extended cab truck or suburban or blazer. I mainly wanted to do a single cab truck because I've never seen one with a system in the cab that hits decent. So more of a novelty kinda deal. I can't use it for competition because official rules are you can't have your box in front of the front door frame. So would like to find a hatchback or blazer if anyone has one for sale locally in Md. Back to Havoc... The subs burning the voicecoils in a heartbeat. Also when i said the h2 was pitifull, let me rephrase it the way it was intended, It's pitiful in my setup, Not saying it's the sub just saying it's the sound. Btw what are you hitting with one h2 15 with that amp in a truck setup?

Also can anyone help me design a box?

 

[lcpunk69 10+ year member]

go to http://www.gnomeaudio.com cheap and well built boxes //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif