Give me some mid woofer ideas

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

They cant be stupid deep. They will be powered by a JL 300/2. They will be going in the doors next to my mid range. I need something that will be strong from 60hz-120hz. Right now the options are the JL ZR800s and the Hertz Energy shallow 8s. Both are around $150 a sub. I'm not trying to cut sheet metal but I can

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[mylows10 5,000+ posts]

dd 1008

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

dd 1008

I only have 150 watts per woofer

 

[mylows10 5,000+ posts]

maybe these then HD 800CF

 

[TheUnderFighter 10+ year member]

Mid woofer... does size matter? 6.5? 8? 10?

I'd check out the Dayton line, and a few others. Take some time to scope out partsexpress.com, that's where I was looking when I was in the market. And they're much more affordable.

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

10s wont fit. 8s will be just right. I wish I could fit a W3, I could but it will take some cutting. And I dont think they will want to be out of a box. I can seal the fiberglass for just the mid bass but I dont think I can get enough airspace.

 

[Why So Cereal? 5,000+ posts]

Peerless SLS.

6.5s or 8s both get nasty.

I hear CDT M6s are beastly too.

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

Peerless SLS.6.5s or 8s both get nasty.

I hear CDT M6s are beastly too.

M6s are way to deep. Deeper then the W3 and it would be pushing it. Even with the cutting. Good thing about our doors, there is nothing behind the frame.

 

[Why So Cereal? 5,000+ posts]

What about Silver Flutes or Seas Prestige. Personally, I'd go 6.5s and perfect the enclosure as opposed to stuffing in an 8 unless u know the enclosure will be optimal.

 

[TheUnderFighter 10+ year member]

Definitely look at partsexpress, they got some more ideal options, without the depth of a real subwoofer.

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

These are really drawning me in right now. The responce graph is strong right where i need it to be.

And Hertz has never disapointed.

HERTZ - Special Car Stereo

 

[Why So Cereal? 5,000+ posts]

That graph you're looking at isn't the FR its an impedance sweep BTW. Meaning that driver has a resonant frequency around 50hz (54hz according to the spec sheet).

 

[Why So Cereal? 5,000+ posts]

What I'd say do, if you want the best results from whatever driver you choose is to find out how much internal volume you will have to work with roughly especially since the midbass and midrange will be in the door and need to be sealed off from each other. After you see how much space you have, start looking at drivers and see what type of enclosure they like best, sealed, IB, vented....and go from there. If you really want an 8, find one that likes the enclosure you will be giving it.

Think about it like buying subs. Are you gonna suffocate a bunch of 15s because they'll "fit" or maybe get smaller woofers and use them to their full potential?

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

That graph you're looking at isn't the FR its an impedance sweep BTW. Meaning that driver has a resonant frequency around 50hz (54hz according to the spec sheet).

Not that graph. I plugged it in winsid. i know its not exact but its close enough

 

[Why So Cereal? 5,000+ posts]

Not that graph. I plugged it in winsid. i know its not exact but its close enough

What were the enclosure specs you used in winsid?