Getting better mid-bass from kicks?

PepsiFiend69
10+ year member

CarAudio.com Veteran
how do i go about doing this? right now i have AA poly's in sealed kicks powered by an orion 4002. my midbass below 100htz is non existant, and anything ~200 htz and up mid-bass wise gets very distorted. now i was under the impression that sealed kicks would yield better mids, but apparently i was wrong.

the only way to get bass between 100 and 50 htz is that i cross my sub over ~125 htz, and persionally i think it sounds like crap crossed that high

my current crossover settings are mids @100htz (sounds crappy if i cross it over lower) with a -12db slope

sub is crossed at 63htz also with a -12db slope.

i just think that sealed kicks are killing my midbass, any suggestions?

also putting them in the doors is not an option, the grommet that you'd run the wires through is a plug instead of an open tube and i don't want to drilll any holes.

 
it is hard to tell from here but i would guess that your problem is from your kicks being small and therefor the mids nave next to no airspace which will kill their low end.

but i cant really say for sure since i have never seen your kicks.

and are you sure they arent out of phase with eachother?

maybe try switching the phase of one at the amp and see what happens.

~Magick_Man~

 
system001.jpg


system002.jpg


theres some pictures.

ive heard that you can port them into the wheel well, although im not sure what's meant by that, i think just meaning you cut the backside of them off.

and yes everything is in phase ive check that about 98672986 times hah.

 
Many ppl run a 3 way here and have the woofers in the door and then the mids and highs in the kicks, this setup yields great results. You can use the factory wires that are already in the doors. You could also just put the setup that you have into the doors and put the crossover in the door as well and use the existing wire that goes into the door. You will never get good bass/midbass from kicks that small, unless you find a midbass that likes tiny tiny enclosures.

 
Man, I tried tackling this for the longest...conclusion either run some 3-ways with the woofers in the doors & mids/tweets in the kicks, or make some huge-ass kicks. What it needs is air!

 
tried some polyfil, didn't to much.. any thoughts on porting them?

EDIT: also, my drivers side door leaks pretty bad, so i don't want to put and crossovers in there

 
have you tried 63 hz 24db slope?


HU only goes to -12db slope... stupid non-premier pioneer unit //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wallbash.gif.1310150c49dd52e0fbe1813a0681e5c3.gif wish i would have never sold my 860mp

 
Ok I got it, take a thin tube like the tubes used for IV's or other medical supplies and put that tube into the kick and seal up around it. Then run the tube to your trunk where you have the other end of the tube into a small box that is like .5 cubes. Theoretically this should work, to test just blow into the tube in your trunk and see if the cone of the midbass works.

 
Ok I got it, take a thin tube like the tubes used for IV's or other medical supplies and put that tube into the kick and seal up around it. Then run the tube to your trunk where you have the other end of the tube into a small box that is like .5 cubes. Theoretically this should work, to test just blow into the tube in your trunk and see if the cone of the midbass works.
That's so ghetto.

 
The tube won't be nearly large enough to provide unrestricted airflow and would be a total waste on time and energy. They need more air. Ported they would need more air still. Untill they have more air the midbass will be disappointing. I'm about to cut the back of my door pods out to open the inside of the door up as part of the enclosure for just the same reason.

 
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PepsiFiend69

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