First time using an Amp and Sub NEED HELP!!

[Brad Eli]

Hi, first timer here, I need some help for a system I am building, I have a ALPINE BBX-F1200 AMPLIFIER 4 CHANNEL (Max power 600w) and a EDGE 12" EDB12A Active Subwoofer (Peak power 900w). I’m using the cars 12v car battery and 10 gauge wire for power and then splitting it, am I right in thinking I need a 125amp fuse near the battery, 50 amp fuse after the splitter going to the amp and 75amp fuse after splitter going to the sub.

Also any idea on what speakers would work with the amplifier and how to wire it would be appreciated.

50w x 4 @4 ohm per channel
70w x 4 @2ohm per channel

I tried 30w 4ohm speaker and they don’t sound right. I’m assuming it needed to be higher than 50w.

Thanks Brad

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[Doxquzme Premium Member]

First, ignore the peak power specs, meaningless, go by RMS. The Alpine 4 ch has a 40 amp fuse, you should run an inline fuse to both the Alpine and another for the amplified sub. Looks lit the Alpine as a fuse rating of 40 amps, the sub is a 300-watt amp, and in a 12-16 volt environment, 20-25 amps should do the trick. Get yourself a 4 gauge (at a minimum 8 gauge) pure copper wiring kit like these:

Amazon product ASIN B0C8V972Z7
I have purchased both and verified that they are OFC copper. Each comes with the needed fuse block, just get the correct fuses, and that part is done. Either kit should be enough to get everything done. The only added piece would be a distribution block like this which includes 1 of the 2 inline fuse blocks or even this deal for two:

Amazon product ASIN B01JNW12JI
Distro block:

Amazon product ASIN B08R5XN4NF
To connect all the power wires up, determine the width of the spades needed and get some, like these:

Amazon product ASIN B0023NVYZW
As for the fuse needed near the battery, an 80 to 100-amp fuse would be fine. You're protecting the car from wire-fire here, not the amps as the inline fuses and amp fuses will take of them.

Amazon product ASIN B01HDX3WAG
AS for speakers, if you have the means to purchase these pioneers (and want comps), right now they are a steal!

Pioneer TS-Z65C 6.5" Component Speaker System 300 Watts Max RB | eBay

1-1/8" aluminum tweeter. 6-1/2" Twaron fiber woofer with butyl rubber surround. Tweeter Composition Aluminum. Woofer Composition Twaron. Woofer Surround ---. handles up to 100 watts RMS (300 watts peak power).

www.ebay.com

If you're looking for Coaxial speakers for the front and rear at a good price to sound ratio, check out the NVX N and V series at NVX.com.

 

[Brad Eli]

Hi mate, thank you for your reply it’s been really helpful, i will check out those links.

I currently have two speakers that I was planning on using, both 2-way coaxial 30w 4ohm speakers, any idea if they will work with my amp?
Brad

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

The amp is rated at 70 x 4. Anything you get that is close to that rating (preferably above) should work fine. I always recommend using the same speakers all the way around in scenarios like yours.
I've used these and they are a pretty good deal at $42.45 a pair:

RECOIL RCX65 Echo Series 6.5-Inch Car Audio Coaxial Speaker System 690005546247 | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for RECOIL RCX65 Echo Series 6.5-Inch Car Audio Coaxial Speaker System at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

These are a great step up and cover front and rear for $140 shipped:

NVX NSP65KIT/NSP65 | 200W RMS 6.5" Component Speakers + 6.5" Coaxials | eBay

NVX NSP65KIT + NSP65. 600W Peak (200W RMS) 6.5" Component Speaker System + NSP65 6.5" Coaxial Speakers. NVX NSP65KIT. NSP65KIT, NSP65. NVX NSP65KIT Manual. NVX XBAF65 6.5" Speaker Baffle Ring Kit. NVX VKN2BK.

www.ebay.com

It's only money, right? Remember, it's never cheap to do things right but it's ALWAYS expensive to do things wrong.

 

[HardofWhoring]

* The fuse at the start of the cable needs to be equal to or greater than the fuse/load at the end of the run.
* The cable needs to be capable of handling more than the fuse (IMO, at least 15% more). The fuse is you INTENTIONALLY adding in a weak point. If you have a problem you want it to happen where it is protected, where it can be easily fixed and more importantly controlled. If you put a fuse inline that is higher than what the cable can do, then the fuse is pointless, and you'll burn the wire first.

How to calculate the best wire gauge for your car amplifier

How to determine the best size wire for your amp's power and ground

www.crutchfield.com

I would go 8awg off the splitter, and 4awg off the battery. The cable can be as large as you want. It causes less resistance, costs a little more, and takes up a little more physical space. If your amp's terminals can fit it, then no reason you can't just buy a 4awg kit, and run all 4awg. If you buy a 4awg run, you might just have enough left to do all of it 4awg.

This chart, (and every chart you see) is assumed that you are using OFC wire, (not CCA).

RMS Power Ratings​

• Per Channel into 4ohms (≤1%THD+N): 4 x 50W
• Per Channel into 2ohms (≤1%THD+N): 4 x 70W
• Bridged into 4ohms (≤1%THD+N): 2 x 130W

Alpine - BBX-F1200 4 Channel Amplifier

Alpine - BBX-F1200 4 Channel Amplifier

www.alpine.co.uk

30w speakers shouldn't sound bad, (just won't get really loud). Your gain could have been set probably too high, and may have damaged them. You'll get more volume out of speakers that are 50w and have the gain set right. You might have had the crossovers set incorrectly, (turn those off).