First system not sure how to wire to amp

[jzanca]

You mean because the rms is to high? And yeah its a 2006 honda pilot

 

[C1500martin 10+ year member]

yes and for $300 you can get the same power from a way better amp. my soundqubed 2200 i got for $300 and it does 2200 rms your probably doesn't even do 2200 although its rated at 2600

 

[jzanca]

Gotcha I'm considering upgrading electric maybe, if I'm going to invest I might as well not limit myself in terms of power

 

[C1500martin 10+ year member]

yea dude if your willing to give up the space 1 15 or 2 12s in a proper ported enclosure will surely be more than enough for you.

 

[mylows10 5,000+ posts]

Hit me up ip if you have any questions. If nothing else I can steer you in the right direction

 

[jzanca]

I agree, if I wanted to upgrade electric do you think it would be close to a grand though? Curious I'd be okay with 1 15 but 2 just sounds so much better lol

 

[jzanca]

Hit me up ip if you have any questions. If nothing else I can steer you in the right direction

Awesome thank you ll let you know when I'm ready to buy again

 

[mylows10 5,000+ posts]

Awesome thank you ll let you know when I'm ready to buy again

No prob

 

[blazian87 10+ year member]

@jzanca; Definitely return the kickers asap.. Way overpriced.

2 15" SSA Dcons would be nice. about $180 each. rated 400w each. You could get a 1000w amp and get a custom ported box. You'll spend about $500 for subs and box.. Look around classifieds for a used 1000-1200w amp for less than $200. Get 4 gauge OFC wiring and do the big 3 upgrade. No need for upgraded electrical.

 

[blazian87 10+ year member]

Single Dayton Ultimax 15" would be awesome too.. But requires a huge enclosure if you can fit it.

Dayton Audio UM15-22 15" Ultimax DVC Subwoofer 2 ohms Per Coil

 

[jzanca]

Single Dayton Ultimax 15" would be awesome too.. But requires a huge enclosure if you can fit it.
Dayton Audio UM15-22 15" Ultimax DVC Subwoofer 2 ohms Per Coil

Thanks a lot for the suggestions, I'm definitely returning the l7's. So I just ordered a XS Power D5100 3100 Amp AGM Power Cell Car Audio Battery + Terminal Hardware, I'm doing the big 3 upgrade and my friend has a capacitor that hes giving me for free. Please turn me around if I'm heading in the wrong direction here.

I'm assuming, but correct me if i'm wrong, that the higher the rms of the sub the harder it would hit. So I'm willing to upgrade electrical for it if, like I said I am correct about that. Do you think I'd need a higher output alternator to handle 2,000+ RMS? Sorry for all the questions, been trying to do research on my end here.

Anyway on another subject, would you recommend two Dayton Audio's that you linked me to over the l7's?

Thanks again,

Justin

 

[blazian87 10+ year member]

Thanks a lot for the suggestions, I'm definitely returning the l7's. So I just ordered a XS Power D5100 3100 Amp AGM Power Cell Car Audio Battery + Terminal Hardware, I'm doing the big 3 upgrade and my friend has a capacitor that hes giving me for free. Please turn me around if I'm heading in the wrong direction here.
I'm assuming, but correct me if i'm wrong, that the higher the rms of the sub the harder it would hit. So I'm willing to upgrade electrical for it if, like I said I am correct about that. Do you think I'd need a higher output alternator to handle 2,000+ RMS? Sorry for all the questions, been trying to do research on my end here.

Anyway on another subject, would you recommend two Dayton Audio's that you linked me to over the l7's?

Thanks again,

Justin

There's alot to clear up for you. First of all, don't use that capacitor.. it does more harm than good.. You can find plenty of article why. Second, you said you have a honda pilot.. I think you need a D5100R, not the D5100.. Which side is your positive terminal at? Left or right? Check to see if you got the right battery because the terminal could be on the wrong side. If you got the wrong one, cancel the order right away. I made this mistake and had to use my D2400 as a rear battery instead.

Just because you run more power, doesn't necessarily mean it's louder. It's how you use that power. If you go anything over 1200w, you need to upgrade electrical and it gets expensive quick. Instead, you should do more cone area and get an efficient ported box that will utilize your power the most. You're lucky because you have the extra space to use for bigger subs. Space makes bass. Cone is king. Remember that. I have a corolla running more than 2000w and I bet you can be louder than me with 1000w.

The 2 Dayton 15's would definitely be a better choice than 2 15" kicker L7's and sound way better too. You have to factor in the enclosure you're gonna put it in too because those Dayton Ultimax's require 6 cubic ft for EACH sub ported and you need to get a 2000w amp to handle that also. Yes, you would need a H/O alternator and a 2nd battery for that. That is why I recommended just 1 of them or just get 2 lower powered 15's like the SSA Dcons in a good box and you should be bangin'. The 15" Dcon's would only need 3.5 - 4 cubic ft per sub and 1000w would be more than sufficient for that. If you're not trying to spend thousands of dollars on electrical and equipment, then I would suggest you stick with 1200w or less.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Thanks a lot for the suggestions, I'm definitely returning the l7's. So I just ordered a XS Power D5100 3100 Amp AGM Power Cell Car Audio Battery + Terminal Hardware, I'm doing the big 3 upgrade and my friend has a capacitor that hes giving me for free. Please turn me around if I'm heading in the wrong direction here.
I'm assuming, but correct me if i'm wrong, that the higher the rms of the sub the harder it would hit. So I'm willing to upgrade electrical for it if, like I said I am correct about that. Do you think I'd need a higher output alternator to handle 2,000+ RMS? Sorry for all the questions, been trying to do research on my end here.

Anyway on another subject, would you recommend two Dayton Audio's that you linked me to over the l7's?

Thanks again,

Justin

RMS numbers do not neccessarily mean louder. You have to look at the Thiele small parameters and the actual parts they use to make the subwoofer.

seriously man, get an 18" you'll be loud as FFF and save a lot of money. Put that money into a proper amp, ****PROPER CUSTOM BUILT PORTED ENCLOSURE******(Most important fking aspect) and upgrade your battery along with a big 3 upgrade kit. Use sky high or knukonceptz wire.

These three 18s would smash those kickers no problem. They'll take whatever power you'll throw at them too so make sure you get a D2 and wire down to 1 ohm. Unless you are planning on getting a kicker/alpine/rockford amp that does power at 2 ohms.

http://www.soundqubed.com/HDC3118-Copper-Coil-Subwoofer_p_25.html

American Bass XFL1822

Ethos 18" Subwoofer - 1800 watts - directsoundsolutions.com

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

L7s have small voice coils which = Sh*t power handling. Weak magnets, and horrible Xmax.

Do those upgrades you mentioned and monitor your system voltage with a digital multi-meter or an indash volt-meter to see how low your voltages are dropping when you are playing your system full blast. If its dropping below 12.6-12.8 then you need a high output alt.

 

[Slo_Ride 5,000+ posts]

kicker haters are idiots. just naive rookies