First Setup- Wiring and Instalation Questions
- Thread starter Boley Buster
- Live activity
- Replies 29
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Your best bet would be to read around the forums for a day or two to get ideas, but I will try and answer some of your questions:
1) Mounting the amps shouldnt be too much trouble, either find a nice spot to mount vertically on a piece of plywood in your trunk area, or you can screw them directly onto the back seats (but then they will be visible since its an SUV).
2) You will have to run one power wire from your battery +, through your hood, through the car firewall, and to the back of the car. Pick one side for running the power wire, and stick with it. I would also strongly recommend using 4 gauge wire or larger for your main power wire run from the battery (in case you want to expand to bigger amps in the future). You can then use a distro block in the trunk to split up the power wire into your two smaller 8awg wires to go to your amps. Fuse the main power wire near the battery (around 100a fuse should do).
3) Do something similar for grounding, run 8awg from each amp to a distro block, and then use 4awg from the distro block to a good grounding point in the trunk (maybe a strut tower or seat belt bolt).
4) I am assuming your headunit has the preamp builtin, so you will need a way to convert the speaker level (amplified) outputs to line-level (pre-amped) outputs, before you input them into your amps. This is important for SQ. I used a Navone LOC and never had problems. You can get the two channel and then just use an RCA splitter. Some amps have a dupe mode, where u can just use a 2 channel input, and then have it distributed across all four channels as well David Navone Engineering - redirecting
5) You will have to run new speaker wire from your amp to your new speakers, since the original speaker wire will only be going from headunit to speakers. There are two ways to do this: either run speaker wire (on the opposite side of your power wire, IMPORTANT) to each speaker individually, or you can run new speaker wire back up to your stock headunit location, and splice it into the original wires going to your speakers from there. The second method may be easier since you wont have to run new wires into the doors, but it depends on how your stock speaker setup is (whether there are separate wires for tweeters, mids, etc).
6) Probably best to find an amp mounting spot first, then run your power and ground wires to the amp (and a remote wire, i forgot to mention), then run the wires for your speaker level inputs through the navone LOC to the amp, and then finally your speaker wires from the amp back up either into your doors or to your stock headunit location.
Good luck!
1) Mounting the amps shouldnt be too much trouble, either find a nice spot to mount vertically on a piece of plywood in your trunk area, or you can screw them directly onto the back seats (but then they will be visible since its an SUV).
2) You will have to run one power wire from your battery +, through your hood, through the car firewall, and to the back of the car. Pick one side for running the power wire, and stick with it. I would also strongly recommend using 4 gauge wire or larger for your main power wire run from the battery (in case you want to expand to bigger amps in the future). You can then use a distro block in the trunk to split up the power wire into your two smaller 8awg wires to go to your amps. Fuse the main power wire near the battery (around 100a fuse should do).
3) Do something similar for grounding, run 8awg from each amp to a distro block, and then use 4awg from the distro block to a good grounding point in the trunk (maybe a strut tower or seat belt bolt).
4) I am assuming your headunit has the preamp builtin, so you will need a way to convert the speaker level (amplified) outputs to line-level (pre-amped) outputs, before you input them into your amps. This is important for SQ. I used a Navone LOC and never had problems. You can get the two channel and then just use an RCA splitter. Some amps have a dupe mode, where u can just use a 2 channel input, and then have it distributed across all four channels as well David Navone Engineering - redirecting
5) You will have to run new speaker wire from your amp to your new speakers, since the original speaker wire will only be going from headunit to speakers. There are two ways to do this: either run speaker wire (on the opposite side of your power wire, IMPORTANT) to each speaker individually, or you can run new speaker wire back up to your stock headunit location, and splice it into the original wires going to your speakers from there. The second method may be easier since you wont have to run new wires into the doors, but it depends on how your stock speaker setup is (whether there are separate wires for tweeters, mids, etc).
6) Probably best to find an amp mounting spot first, then run your power and ground wires to the amp (and a remote wire, i forgot to mention), then run the wires for your speaker level inputs through the navone LOC to the amp, and then finally your speaker wires from the amp back up either into your doors or to your stock headunit location.
Good luck!
- Thread Starter
- #3
Thank you for the swift response Hari,
Mounting the amps onto plywood is a great idea that I hadn't thought of. I could probably paint the piece to match the interior too. Would I need to mount this piece, or could I keep it loose so that I could remove it?
That brings up another question I had. I wasn't so hot on mounting the sub to the trunk, since I have a little shelf system in there. I had planned on putting a couple of brackets it and chaining or roping it to a pair of hooks I have in the back. Would that be sound (haha pun)?
So all power would go on one side, (I'll arbitrarily chose right) how do I deal with speakers on that side? Do I need to run their wire over to the left side?
Another power question. I was looking on my kits, and I was mistaken. I actually have 2 4 gauge kits. I originally had one at 4 and one at 8 by accident, and i changed both to 4. Should I run each power wire through, or should I just do one and split it at the amps?
Again, I apologize for the noob-ness of these questions, I'm trying to get as much reading and research done as I can.
Mounting the amps onto plywood is a great idea that I hadn't thought of. I could probably paint the piece to match the interior too. Would I need to mount this piece, or could I keep it loose so that I could remove it?
That brings up another question I had. I wasn't so hot on mounting the sub to the trunk, since I have a little shelf system in there. I had planned on putting a couple of brackets it and chaining or roping it to a pair of hooks I have in the back. Would that be sound (haha pun)?
So all power would go on one side, (I'll arbitrarily chose right) how do I deal with speakers on that side? Do I need to run their wire over to the left side?
Another power question. I was looking on my kits, and I was mistaken. I actually have 2 4 gauge kits. I originally had one at 4 and one at 8 by accident, and i changed both to 4. Should I run each power wire through, or should I just do one and split it at the amps?
Again, I apologize for the noob-ness of these questions, I'm trying to get as much reading and research done as I can.
- Thread Starter
- #4
Well, total engineer move. I decided to map it out before I started anything, and this also makes asking questions alot easier. Heres my power scheme.
Do I need to run that all the way around back, or is there a way to swing it around front. I figure there has to be to get the head unit wires in, I just don't know whats going on up there.
Same question here.
How do I do the orange sections? Can i take out the center console or something? I think I'd also like to put the bass knob inside the center console. That is unless I can fit it into one of those buttons in the center console.
Do I need to run that all the way around back, or is there a way to swing it around front. I figure there has to be to get the head unit wires in, I just don't know whats going on up there.
Same question here.
How do I do the orange sections? Can i take out the center console or something? I think I'd also like to put the bass knob inside the center console. That is unless I can fit it into one of those buttons in the center console.
- Thread Starter
- #5
The more I think about this the more I want to run power up the front, it also keeps the wires separate which is what I assume was intended by "speakers one side, power other" mantra?
Also, could I screw some brackets into the sub so that I could chain/rope it to my trunk? I'd really perfer not to screw it into the ground, and if its movable I could use my trunk more. My roommate has his loose and its been find for him, I just worry since mine is more square than his 2 speaker sub. I guess I just need to get a feel for it's girth once it arrives.
Also, could I screw some brackets into the sub so that I could chain/rope it to my trunk? I'd really perfer not to screw it into the ground, and if its movable I could use my trunk more. My roommate has his loose and its been find for him, I just worry since mine is more square than his 2 speaker sub. I guess I just need to get a feel for it's girth once it arrives.
anything to hold it in place and keep it from tipping would be fine...
run your speaker wire on the opposite side of the car until you get to the point where it has to enter that door. basically u want it running alongside power for as short of a time as possible, or u are going to pick up whine
with the amps u have now, running a single 4awg to a distro block and then splitting into 4awg to each amp will be fine. but if u get beefier amps down the road, u will wish that the original run from the battery was larger.
your power wiring diagram looks good. make sure u get solid ground points for the 2 amps, preferably to the chassis and not sheet metal. a seat belt bolt, sanded down, does well.
your speaker wiring diagram also looks good. however if you dont want to run new wire into your doors, which can be a pain in the ***, run your outputs from your 4 channel amp back up to the headunit and splice into the original speaker wires from there. if you get your hands on a wiring diagram for your stock harness, you can see what's what. (you'll need to know the the +/- for each speaker, as well as the remote wire).
you can place your bass knob in the center console, i drilled a little hole for mine. as for where you will run those wires, it depends on the car. i ran mine behind the headunit, down in the drive side kick panel (above the pedals), and through the door sills. if there is a way for you to get underneath your center console and gearshift though, and run through there, it will probably be much easier
your speaker wiring diagram also looks good. however if you dont want to run new wire into your doors, which can be a pain in the ***, run your outputs from your 4 channel amp back up to the headunit and splice into the original speaker wires from there. if you get your hands on a wiring diagram for your stock harness, you can see what's what. (you'll need to know the the +/- for each speaker, as well as the remote wire).
you can place your bass knob in the center console, i drilled a little hole for mine. as for where you will run those wires, it depends on the car. i ran mine behind the headunit, down in the drive side kick panel (above the pedals), and through the door sills. if there is a way for you to get underneath your center console and gearshift though, and run through there, it will probably be much easier
keep_hope_alive
Premium Member
Acoustics Engineer
looks like you've started down the right path. i like your diagrams and planning, you'll find that will help you a lot.
a few items i'll comment on first:
1. i never use seat belt bolts. those are for safety. sanding away paint will introduce rust. you don't want that there. leave the safety restraints alone. simply drill a hole, sand away a small section of paint, bolt it securely, and seal with silicone.
2. the amps need to be secured to the vehicle. a board is preferred so you can also secure wiring to it so that you have strain relief. i also avoid bolting amps straight to metal as that has caused noise issues in the past. the board adds mounting height. this may be an issue under teh seats. plan on removing the seats right a way, to give you easy access. then remove the center console, lower dash panels, and all side trim. get access before you start. i would also remove the carpet, secure my amp board to the floor, route my wires to the amp so they were hidden under carpet. then the carpet can go back down and amps will be on top of that - with wires cleanly routed through the carpet.
3. chains on the sub box will rattle. aircraft cable is a better bet, but it should be strength rated for the force that it will endure in a collision. as an ME you can calculate the forces at work given the mass of the sub + enclosure in a 65mph collision. then choose your mounting points and strengths based on that.
4. speaker wires are high level signals. power wires are DC. no noise concerns there - it's somewhat of an "old wives tale". noise with AC power - you bet. DC power - nah. there may be a small AC component to the current but not enough to introduce noise in speaker wires. that said, i still find it prudent to cross at right angles.
5. two runs of 4 awg is excessive for those amps. but you don't have a fused distribution block. you could buy one or just run both wires. buying a distro block would be easier since you'll have to make two passes in the firewall - that's two holes and two grommets.
speaker wires aren't hard to wire through doors. most modern cars use harnesses so you can simply trace the door wire harness, unplug, then route them out of the body and hold the rubber wire pass through in your hand to fish wires with. i detail that in my build logs. new wire is a good idea, as is solder and heat shrink on connections. but wiring speakers this way takes hours. worth it, but time consuming to do correctly.
i wire loom all wires along their entire length. i like extra protection for cables, and it makes them look nicer. to access wiring at the head unit - use mating Metra harnesses. 70-1761 into the vehicle and 71-1761 into the factory radio. no cutting of factory wires is preferred.
factory speakers are a different size. you need to either make waterproof wooden baffles or buy mounting adapters like the Metra 82-3412.
your amps should have high level inputs. let me check on those... that would eliminate the need for a LOC
a few items i'll comment on first:
1. i never use seat belt bolts. those are for safety. sanding away paint will introduce rust. you don't want that there. leave the safety restraints alone. simply drill a hole, sand away a small section of paint, bolt it securely, and seal with silicone.
2. the amps need to be secured to the vehicle. a board is preferred so you can also secure wiring to it so that you have strain relief. i also avoid bolting amps straight to metal as that has caused noise issues in the past. the board adds mounting height. this may be an issue under teh seats. plan on removing the seats right a way, to give you easy access. then remove the center console, lower dash panels, and all side trim. get access before you start. i would also remove the carpet, secure my amp board to the floor, route my wires to the amp so they were hidden under carpet. then the carpet can go back down and amps will be on top of that - with wires cleanly routed through the carpet.
3. chains on the sub box will rattle. aircraft cable is a better bet, but it should be strength rated for the force that it will endure in a collision. as an ME you can calculate the forces at work given the mass of the sub + enclosure in a 65mph collision. then choose your mounting points and strengths based on that.
4. speaker wires are high level signals. power wires are DC. no noise concerns there - it's somewhat of an "old wives tale". noise with AC power - you bet. DC power - nah. there may be a small AC component to the current but not enough to introduce noise in speaker wires. that said, i still find it prudent to cross at right angles.
5. two runs of 4 awg is excessive for those amps. but you don't have a fused distribution block. you could buy one or just run both wires. buying a distro block would be easier since you'll have to make two passes in the firewall - that's two holes and two grommets.
speaker wires aren't hard to wire through doors. most modern cars use harnesses so you can simply trace the door wire harness, unplug, then route them out of the body and hold the rubber wire pass through in your hand to fish wires with. i detail that in my build logs. new wire is a good idea, as is solder and heat shrink on connections. but wiring speakers this way takes hours. worth it, but time consuming to do correctly.
i wire loom all wires along their entire length. i like extra protection for cables, and it makes them look nicer. to access wiring at the head unit - use mating Metra harnesses. 70-1761 into the vehicle and 71-1761 into the factory radio. no cutting of factory wires is preferred.
factory speakers are a different size. you need to either make waterproof wooden baffles or buy mounting adapters like the Metra 82-3412.
your amps should have high level inputs. let me check on those... that would eliminate the need for a LOC
keep_hope_alive
Premium Member
Acoustics Engineer
keep_hope_alive
Premium Member
Acoustics Engineer
no LOC needed. these can accept speaker wire inputs - but you have to put RCA ends on them. fairly easy to do, Radio Shack sells the RCA ends.
you want to maintain your fader, you want most of the sound in front of you so you want to fade to front. i strongly recommend having your fronts and sub on the front HU output and rears on the rear HU output. do this by wiring front speaker wire to sub amp input. then sub amp output to 4ch amp1 input. take rear HU output to 4ch amp 2 input. make sense?
since the amps are auto turn-on, you don't need to tap the factory HU for a remote wire. if one is available in the wire harness adapters, then go ahead and use it.
you want to maintain your fader, you want most of the sound in front of you so you want to fade to front. i strongly recommend having your fronts and sub on the front HU output and rears on the rear HU output. do this by wiring front speaker wire to sub amp input. then sub amp output to 4ch amp1 input. take rear HU output to 4ch amp 2 input. make sense?
since the amps are auto turn-on, you don't need to tap the factory HU for a remote wire. if one is available in the wire harness adapters, then go ahead and use it.
- Thread Starter
- #11
Thats a **** smart idea about the carpet Hope. So I should plan on just taking out the seats (i checked on how to that yesterday, does not look to be a big deal) remove the floor vent for the AC, and then trace the outline of the amp onto the carpet and remove it. Whats the difference between a layer of carpet in between the amp --> car as opposed to a wooden alternative? I just ask because mutilating the carpet might not look so hot when i'm done, and I'd need something to secure the lose carpet down wouldn't I? Additionally, I'm not terribly concerned with running the wires under the carpet, the little wiring track is right there at their outputs. I was just going to use some of that black cable shielding to protect it on the way.
However, now that i'm thining about this, are you saying to remove the carpet. Wire and place the board. Then cut slits in the carpet for the wires to pass through and bolt down the amp (basically just inserting a board under the carpet for support). I could be down with that, it seems much easier on the carpet (if it would fit over the board).
I was worried about the rattle, but your saying some aircraft cable in tension (i would assume) doesn't make noise? That would be great, I'm actually interning (and typing this from) a company that makes aircraft power cables. Ironic eh?
Ah, another amp question. When I'm attaching them to the chassis, may it be through carpet or not, i'm going to need to be bolting them right? Meaning I'd need to get under the car and secure the nut right? Thats not a problem, i'm just clarifying.
For the speaker sizes, the bostons claim to come with some mounting rings. Will this be sufficient to modify the current mounts to fit? I saw some other builds where people had glued them in to make them fit. I do have the 6x9 to 6 1/2 converter for the front though. I'm just worried about the tweeter sizing, that may be a ***** to resize.
I think I get what your saying with the front/rear thing. Your basically saying wire the rears to the rear amp output, and the front to the front amp output along with the sub to the front amp output. Is this because there is no sub output channel? I did get a new wiring harness I should be able to wire everything fairly cleanly.
The remote I got is more of a knob type deal to adjust the sub level without having to go under the seat and change the amp setting. There is an auxilary input in my console, which means the head unit has to have a path in there somehow. I'll try and figure it out.
However, now that i'm thining about this, are you saying to remove the carpet. Wire and place the board. Then cut slits in the carpet for the wires to pass through and bolt down the amp (basically just inserting a board under the carpet for support). I could be down with that, it seems much easier on the carpet (if it would fit over the board).
I was worried about the rattle, but your saying some aircraft cable in tension (i would assume) doesn't make noise? That would be great, I'm actually interning (and typing this from) a company that makes aircraft power cables. Ironic eh?
Ah, another amp question. When I'm attaching them to the chassis, may it be through carpet or not, i'm going to need to be bolting them right? Meaning I'd need to get under the car and secure the nut right? Thats not a problem, i'm just clarifying.
For the speaker sizes, the bostons claim to come with some mounting rings. Will this be sufficient to modify the current mounts to fit? I saw some other builds where people had glued them in to make them fit. I do have the 6x9 to 6 1/2 converter for the front though. I'm just worried about the tweeter sizing, that may be a ***** to resize.
I think I get what your saying with the front/rear thing. Your basically saying wire the rears to the rear amp output, and the front to the front amp output along with the sub to the front amp output. Is this because there is no sub output channel? I did get a new wiring harness I should be able to wire everything fairly cleanly.
The remote I got is more of a knob type deal to adjust the sub level without having to go under the seat and change the amp setting. There is an auxilary input in my console, which means the head unit has to have a path in there somehow. I'll try and figure it out.
keep_hope_alive
Premium Member
Acoustics Engineer
i mean this. you only cut slits in the carpet that are easily closed up if you sell the car. no one cares about slits under the seats.
the board would be bolted to the vehicle floor. the amp would be screwed to the board. wires would be taped down to teh vehicle floor - i find aluminum foil tape (like for HVAC ductwork) works very well as it is designed to stick to metal and doesn't leave a residue when removed. this will look/work the best and wires won't be exposed so they can't be pulled when stuff gets shoved under the seats.
tweeters will go up above the dash, almost ear level and as far from you as possible. try to avoid aiming them such that they bounce sound off glass - try to aim them at the dome light. apillars make excellent locations and they should come with angled mounts.
when you have a 4 channel source (factory or aftermarket) and you have 2-6 channels of amplification, here is my thinking (based on almost two decades of experimentation and experience).
first and foremost - you want sound to come front in front of you - or at least appear to come from in front of you. the front speakers are the most important and should receive most of the effort and time in installation.
secondly, you want your bass to balance with your fronts, and supplement the lower octaves.
third, you want some rear information to improve vehicle acoustics and simulate room reflections.
with a 4 channel source and front/rear/sub channels of amplification we want to have the front speakers and sub on the front output. we can balance the front/sub through the amps with crossover and level. then we use the rear outputs for the rear speakers only. this allows us the ability to maintain the fader for the vehicle - recognizing we'll only fade to front anyway and never fade to rear (unless you're entertaining kids which don't need subs anyway).
with a 4 channel source and front/sub channels of amplification (no rear) then it makes sense to do front to front and rear to sub so our fader now acts as a quasi-sub level controller.
the key to remember is that rear speakers are important, but when you're in the front seats you shouldn't be able to tell they are on. however, when they are turned off, it will sound different - but the sound always appears to come from the dash.
also, in your case, you want to avoid splitters, so you use the pass-through on the sub amp to feed the 4ch amp. if the 4ch amp had a pass-through then i would recommend feeding that amp first. it does not, and that's not a big deal as long as the sub amp pass-through is still full range. if the sub amp pass-through is not full range, you'll need to split the front output to both amps. that isn't a deal breaker either.
you'll run into some limitation of sound quality using the factory radio. there will be increased background hiss and noise, as well as increased distortion as you move past 50% volume due to the very poor quality internal amplifier. i have not researched if your vehicle came with a factory amplifier, or if that factory amplifier has a high or low level input. you'll still be fine intercepting wires at the head unit (note you'll need both harnesses to do this, not just one). pac-audio sells amplifier integration harnesses for just this purpose.
keep_hope_alive
Premium Member
Acoustics Engineer
take your time with this install. start by running all of the wiring for the amps and getting the amp boards down. this will likely take an entire day. your seats should have four 14mm bolts each and a few wire harnesses. remove the bolts, tip the seat to unplug the harnesses, and remove. it helps to position the seat to full up-right position and centered in the supports before disconnecting the harness. you can lift, rotate, and remove through the front doors. with seats out, the vehicle is much easier to work on. once you remove the center console and side trim, the carpet will come up. sometimes you have to remove the seat belt bolts on the b-pillars. thsi is usually a large torx bolt and a PITA. you could clip the carpet if you couldn't get the bolt out, but try to avoid that. to remove the center console, there will be a combination of trim panels that pop off and screws that hold it down. usually screws where it meets the dash, in the bottom of the console storage, and near the shifter. each vehicle is unique, but those are typical. the lower dash panels are removed to gain access for wire routing. the glove box is also handy to remove at this time. nothing wrong with driving around with all of this removed, but just plan on replacing the seats each time. note that if you disconnect a harness associated with any SRS system and then drive the vehicle, you'll get a trouble light.
i always disconnect the battery negative when making any connections. you can route wires with the battery connected, but disconnect when you start working with wires.
when routing wires, i prefer black split loom so it looks factory, and i secure to factory wiring or my own ties/tape every 6-8 inches. again, try to emulate factory wiring.
when penetrating the firewall, use a good firewall grommet. i like the streetwires grommets the best. finding a way through the firewall is tricky, especially on the passenger side due to the heater/blower. the driver's side is usually much more open and where factory wiring comes through anyway. always inspect both sides of the fire wall before drilling. use existing penetrations to find a clear spot. you'll have to remove a section of the factory foam/barrier to gain access to metal. sometimes we get lucky with unused blank grommets that 4awg fits though.
the power wire fuse holder(s) should be located as close to the battery as possible, and should be mounted securely. try to introduce strain relief and recognize the wire between battery and fuse holder isn't protected and needs to be uber-secure. never rely on the ring terminal/fuse holder connections alone. plan wire routing with methods of securing the wire in mind. i could easily spend a day just on power and ground wiring. it is that important. do not rush this.
plan that speaker wiring will take an hour per speaker. you can run wire to the general location inside the car and coil up extra. then attack one door at a time. your system will be down during this period, so this part of the install can usually be the last. you can install everything else and maintain the factory system functionality. some care about that. i don't. i've gone a month without a working system and while driving a fully dissasembled car. in the end, any time spend without music is worth it. that said, the 2005 Scion tC i've been working on for a friend has never gone a day without functionality. we carefully phased our work so that it was always functional. pre-planning and a good understanding of how everything needs to work is requried to do this on a full system build like that car had.
take pictures as you go. imagine you're taking pictures to provide instruction to others on how to do it. pictures will keep you honest and increase the quality of your work. they will also help others in the way we've helped you. pass it on, brother!
i always disconnect the battery negative when making any connections. you can route wires with the battery connected, but disconnect when you start working with wires.
when routing wires, i prefer black split loom so it looks factory, and i secure to factory wiring or my own ties/tape every 6-8 inches. again, try to emulate factory wiring.
when penetrating the firewall, use a good firewall grommet. i like the streetwires grommets the best. finding a way through the firewall is tricky, especially on the passenger side due to the heater/blower. the driver's side is usually much more open and where factory wiring comes through anyway. always inspect both sides of the fire wall before drilling. use existing penetrations to find a clear spot. you'll have to remove a section of the factory foam/barrier to gain access to metal. sometimes we get lucky with unused blank grommets that 4awg fits though.
the power wire fuse holder(s) should be located as close to the battery as possible, and should be mounted securely. try to introduce strain relief and recognize the wire between battery and fuse holder isn't protected and needs to be uber-secure. never rely on the ring terminal/fuse holder connections alone. plan wire routing with methods of securing the wire in mind. i could easily spend a day just on power and ground wiring. it is that important. do not rush this.
plan that speaker wiring will take an hour per speaker. you can run wire to the general location inside the car and coil up extra. then attack one door at a time. your system will be down during this period, so this part of the install can usually be the last. you can install everything else and maintain the factory system functionality. some care about that. i don't. i've gone a month without a working system and while driving a fully dissasembled car. in the end, any time spend without music is worth it. that said, the 2005 Scion tC i've been working on for a friend has never gone a day without functionality. we carefully phased our work so that it was always functional. pre-planning and a good understanding of how everything needs to work is requried to do this on a full system build like that car had.
take pictures as you go. imagine you're taking pictures to provide instruction to others on how to do it. pictures will keep you honest and increase the quality of your work. they will also help others in the way we've helped you. pass it on, brother!
i have been outmastered. good luck //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif
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