Choosing the Right DSP/Amp for Car Audio Setup

[rsisu]

My current inventory

Alpine S2-A36F (4 channel, 60w x 4 @ 4Ω)

Alpine R2-S36C (2 way, component speaker system – tweeters separates. Handles 100W RMS, 300W peak @ 4 Ω). 4 Pieces wired into 2 channels.

Alpine R2-S65 (2 way, co-axials. Handles 100W RMS, 300W peak @ 4 Ω) 2 Pieces into 2 channels.

Memphis amp 300W / Alpine subwoofer 10”. 1 Piece currently tapped into rear right channel.

Stock Honda Accord head unit (Apple CarPlay touchscreen). Current load: 600W.

I want to add a DSP/Amp (only way to go active to all 6.1 channels since I’m currently using a 300W 4channel amp to power 6 cabin speakers and a 300W amp on my sub) but stay below the threshold of needing an alternator or battery upgrade! I don’t want to risk damaging the amplifiers from low voltage or damage the alternator from the strain. Since I don't want to upgrade my alternator, I shouldn't go much past 1000-1200W for a ’24 Accord, right? Dependent on answer, here are the scenarios I see (but am open to any other ideas)…

• Plan A Run tweeters off the channels coming from the DSP/Amp and run the front Midrange separates, rear co-axials, and sub with both supplemental 300W amps. [Total watts = 1200W – 1480W, depending on which DSP/Amp I go with]
• Plan B Lose my 300W cabin amp and amplify the six cabin speakers off the DSP/Amp + supplemental amp for trunk sub (though, that would put my sub from 300W to 600W! which seems a bit much). [Total watts = 900W – 1180W, depending on which DSP/Amp I go with]
• Plan C Run all 6.1 speakers strictly off a DSP/Amp, greatly reducing power load but I don’t want to cut the power if I don’t need to. [Total watts = 600W – 880W, depending on which DSP/Amp I go with]
• Plan D Swap my 4 channel amp for a 6 channel and get a standalone DSP. Only considering this if I’m in a deeper electrical hole than I think I am! [Total watts = 600W]

At this point, I'm close to to picking a DSP/Amp but want to be sure I don't force myself into electrical upgrades on my car. I'm already way over budget! Thanks in advance for any constructive advice given!

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[spokey9 5,000+ posts]

Grab a stand alone dsp w/ 8 outputs and a 2 channel amp...that and what you have will give everything you're looking for

 

[rsisu]

Grab a stand alone dsp w/ 8 outputs and a 2 channel amp...that and what you have will give everything you're looking for

I'm not seeing many good non-amplified DSPs with 8 channels. Any recommendations?

 

[spokey9 5,000+ posts]

What's the budget?

 

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[rsisu]

What's the budget?

More of an electrical question than budget question. Once I know how much (if any) extra watts I can add, I'll narrow down my choices.

 

[spokey9 5,000+ posts]

More of an electrical question than budget question. Once I know how much (if any) extra watts I can add, I'll narrow down my choices.

A dsp doesn't use enough power to really matter. An you can grab a small amp to run tweets that won't pull hardly nothing as well

 

[rsisu]

A dsp doesn't use enough power to really matter. An you can grab a small amp to run tweets that won't pull hardly nothing as well

I get that a DSP alone wouldn't draw much power. I'm wondering if it makes sense to go the route of a small amp and separate DSP, since buying both would possibly cost close to the same as getting a DSP+Amp combo (I am considering the Alpine 8 channel DSP/Amp (PXE-C80-88). I just can't afford a Helix, though I'd love to have one. Also, I have two amps and am planning on the DSP, so a third separate amp really starts to pose issues for hiding all this hardware!

 

[spokey9 5,000+ posts]

You can get the d4s 6-8 for less than $300 and a us acoustic wendy (it's a great Tweeter amp) for $150...so about half the cost of that alpine

 

[ThxOne Premium Member]

I get that a DSP alone wouldn't draw much power. I'm wondering if it makes sense to go the route of a small amp and separate DSP, since buying both would possibly cost close to the same as getting a DSP+Amp combo (I am considering the Alpine 8 channel DSP/Amp (PXE-C80-88). I just can't afford a Helix, though I'd love to have one. Also, I have two amps and am planning on the DSP, so a third separate amp really starts to pose issues for hiding all this hardware!

Hear me out... if you buy a DSP/Amplifier all in one chassis and something either in the DSP or the amp blows up then you are out a DSP and an Amp. Buy them separately and if one goes you still have the other. Though it saves space to have them in the same chassis most DSP's are small.

 

[1aespinoza Premium Member]

More of an electrical question

Another consideration is that music is dynamic. You will seldom see the full 1500w, so your electrical is safe during those peaks.

 

[angela7123]

If you want to avoid alternator upgrades, keeping system draw under ~1,200 W RMS is wise.
Plan A looks fine if your DSP/amp is efficient and gains are set properly, but I’d lean toward Plan B for a cleaner power distribution and less strain, while still giving your sub healthy headroom.