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Message: <blockquote data-quote="keep_hope_alive" data-source="post: 7405930" data-attributes="member: 576029">take your time with this install.  start by running all of the wiring for the amps and getting the amp boards down.  this will likely take an entire day.  your seats should have four 14mm bolts each and a few wire harnesses.  remove the bolts, tip the seat to unplug the harnesses, and remove.  it helps to position the seat to full up-right position and centered in the supports before disconnecting the harness.  you can lift, rotate, and remove through the front doors.  with seats out, the vehicle is much easier to work on.  once you remove the center console and side trim, the carpet will come up.  sometimes you have to remove the seat belt bolts on the b-pillars.  thsi is usually a large torx bolt and a PITA. you could clip the carpet if you couldn't get the bolt out, but try to avoid that.  to remove the center console, there will be a combination of trim panels that pop off and screws that hold it down.  usually screws where it meets the dash, in the bottom of the console storage, and near the shifter.  each vehicle is unique, but those are typical.  the lower dash panels are removed to gain access for wire routing.  the glove box is also handy to remove at this time.  nothing wrong with driving around with all of this removed, but just plan on replacing the seats each time.  note that if you disconnect a harness associated with any SRS system and then drive the vehicle, you'll get a trouble light.i always disconnect the battery negative when making any connections.  you can route wires with the battery connected, but disconnect when you start working with wires.when routing wires, i prefer black split loom so it looks factory, and i secure to factory wiring or my own ties/tape  every 6-8 inches.  again, try to emulate factory wiring.when penetrating the firewall, use a good firewall grommet.  i like the streetwires grommets the best.  finding a way through the firewall is tricky, especially on the passenger side due to the heater/blower.  the driver's side is usually much more open and where factory wiring comes through anyway.  always inspect both sides of the fire wall before drilling.  use existing penetrations to find a clear spot.  you'll have to remove a section of the factory foam/barrier to gain access to metal. sometimes we get lucky with unused blank grommets that 4awg fits though.the power wire fuse holder(s) should be located as close to the battery as possible, and should be mounted securely.  try to introduce strain relief and recognize the wire between battery and fuse holder isn't protected and needs to be uber-secure.  never rely on the ring terminal/fuse holder connections alone.  plan wire routing with methods of securing the wire in mind.  i could easily spend a day just on power and ground wiring.  it is that important.  do not rush this.plan that speaker wiring will take an hour per speaker.  you can run wire to the general location inside the car and coil up extra.  then attack one door at a time.  your system will be down during this period, so this part of the install can usually be the last.  you can install everything else and maintain the factory system functionality.  some care about that. i don't.  i've gone a month without a working system and while driving a fully dissasembled car.  in the end, any time spend without music is worth it.  that said, the 2005 Scion tC i've been working on for a friend has never gone a day without functionality.  we carefully phased our work so that it was always functional.  pre-planning and a good understanding of how everything needs to work is requried to do this on a full system build like that car had.take pictures as you go.  imagine you're taking pictures to provide instruction to others on how to do it.  pictures will keep you honest and increase the quality of your work.  they will also help others in the way we've helped you.  pass it on, brother!</blockquote>

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