First setup need a little help don't make fun.....

Nico Koutouzis
10+ year member

Senior VIP Member
Alright guys my dad has a g35 coupe and I wanted to replace all his stock speakers and add two ten inch type r's to the trunk. I have a few questions.

1.) I am doing the big3 I found a DIY (g35 coupe specific) on it and it seems fairly easy.

2.) The cars stock amps coming from the alternator is 110 amps and I am almost possitive I need to get a HO alty for 1800w rms of power including the three tv's in the car the previous owner had installed.

3.) reasoning is because all the stock speakers sound like **** because the guy who owned the car decided it woud be a good idea to amplify stock speakers.

My shopping cart as of now:

I am open to any opinions

Products

2

Alpine SWR-1043D

1

Alpine SPR-17S

1

Alpine SPR-13S - these are 5.25 components going to be powered by bridging the small kicker amp already installed)

1

Alpine SPR-69C

1

Sound Storm SSL F4.1200- 110w rms x 4 channels at 4 ohms for speakers (powering 6.5's and 6x9)

1

Rockford Fosgate CP4CKDS-4 gauge amp kit for speaker amp. (only reason i chose RF is because it is a free upgrade to a kicker kit on sonic electronix)

1

Sound Storm (SSL) F3600D- monoblock amp rated at 1200 w rms at 4 ohms for the subs

1

db Link PK0RZ -0 gauge wire kit for sub amp

-Just copied the e-mail I sent to myself.

The enclosure I am buying is from zenclosures.

Head Unit is the w900 from alpine.

The firewall has already been drilled through because there is a kicker amp in the back that I just found yesterday haha.

Any tips on how much power I need? things like that? I dont know the battery I have because I am out of town right now.

 
run 0 awg power wire to the back, and then split into 4awg for the amps via a distro block. you dont need two separate power wire runs from front to back. you may be ok on stock alternator, depending on how loud you are blasting your music, but the 0awg wire and a good ground should help

 
4 gauge wire would still work good on the monoblock? i thought it was supposed to hav at the minimum a 2 gauge cause its a larger amp. The stock alternator is veryyyyy good news if I can run 1800w rms including three tv's then the project is def a go.

 
The 4 gauge will be fine because it will only be used for a foot or 2 off the distributor block, with the 0 gauge run from the hood. But with 1800w and 3 TV's, I would be willing to bet you're gonna need to update that alt, unless it already has a stout one stock. And then even more likely you'll need to upgrade the bat in the hood, and put a bat in the trunk. And also, I wouldn't use the dB link 0 gauge kit at all. That's not true 0 gauge, thick insulation. I have their 4gauge kit and it's CCA wire, not OFC. And it's fused for 200a on a 0 gauge line? No way it's that little.

Take a look at this thread: http://www.caraudio.com/forums/wiring-electrical-installation-help/515724-wire-comparison.html

And choose your wire from there. Cadence is said to be the best, true for your money, calue brand. Personally I'd just try to find a good run of it used on here, that's what I did for my Big 3.

 
The alternator is rated at 110 amps which is a little more than most stock altys. I could care less with weight cause the cars an automatic. not like im gonna be doing any racing. As long as the soundstorm works right I am fine with it. I can upgrade the battery in the hood to the yellowtop but is putting another battery in the trunk necessary? it is already a small trunk and don't really wanna spend another good ammount of money on a battery.

 
try with your stock alternator, and a good battery under the hood (deka, kinetic, optima), run your good brand 0 gauge, make sure your ground points are solid, and then see what happens. if u get a lot of dimming, a second battery could help, if that doesnt work then ud need a new alt

 
A new battery is as much as the new alty so if I get dimming should I just upgrade the alty? Btw I am possitive I have to run 2 power wires. I can do two 0 gauge runs to the back and a distribution block to split one for the two small amps with 4 gauge and then have the other 0 gauge power the monoblock.

 
does your monoblock accept 0 gauge wire? running two sets of 0 gauge wouldnt hurt, but its expensive, what makes you so sure you need it? what's the total rms power combined on your 3 amps?

 
I dont really need it but hey why not. At first It was going to be 1850w rms which means I would have to upgrade the alty or battery. But instead I am going to run the subs at their minimum 600w rms combined wired at 4 ohm so if I did want to get them going I could wire it to 1 ohm and test it. So I think I can get away with 1200-1450w rms which means I could just do the big three and slip by because ik of g35's running stock to power it. Is this a better idea?

 
The alternator is rated at 110 amps which is a little more than most stock altys. I could care less with weight cause the cars an automatic. not like im gonna be doing any racing. As long as the soundstorm works right I am fine with it. I can upgrade the battery in the hood to the yellowtop but is putting another battery in the trunk necessary? it is already a small trunk and don't really wanna spend another good ammount of money on a battery.
You asked for advice, someone gave you very good advice on the Soundstorm amps and then you totally dismiss it......

 
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Nico Koutouzis

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