First complete build... so far so good

So I have a question for any available audiofreaks... I am partial to monster brand rca cables.. I am studying but what are the differences between say 1000 series and 8,5,400 series as far as sound quality... also my sub comes with a max, nominal and rms wattage.. I am familiar with max and rms.. but everyone keeps telling me that nominal and rms are the same... however my sub is 8k max,4k nominal, and 2k rms... this has me confused on how to wire the speaker to the amp... it's dvc 2ohm and the amps are rated @ 1700w rms 1 channel @ 4 ohms and 3200w rms 1 channel @ 1 ohm so the difference in rms and nominal wattage of the speaker has me lost on the proper wiring.. any help is a plus.. thanx

 
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Well crap.. I got everything in back wired up and I'm running into a ground issue.. I'm going to have to find a better ground and I have a ground loop isolator on the way.. I also ordered a 160 amp altinator and a small separate battery to go in back.. I'll probably order a new big battery for up front as well because I think I'm going to have problems powering the amps... I'll post up what I have when I get it done

 
So I have a question for any available audiofreaks... I am partial to monster brand rca cables.. I am studying but what are the differences between say 1000 series and 8,5,400 series as far as sound quality... also my sub comes with a max, nominal and rms wattage.. I am familiar with max and rms.. but everyone keeps telling me that nominal and rms are the same... however my sub is 8k max,4k nominal, and 2k rms... this has me confused on how to wire the speaker to the amp... it's dvc 2ohm and the amps are rated @ 1700w rms 1 channel @ 4 ohms and 3200w rms 1 channel @ 1 ohm so the difference in rms and nominal wattage of the speaker has me lost on the proper wiring.. any help is a plus.. thanx
nominal and rms are typically the same thing but in this case it is a way for orion to state the maximum rms. if you are careful you can feed the sub 4k daily, i dont recommend it, they then use rms as the actual amount of power the sub was designed to handle on a day to day basis.

that power accoustik amp doesnt put out 3200w at 1ohm you will be lucky to get 2000w out of it so it is safe to wire the sub to 1ohm.

 
You wanna look for continuous power and not peak power. Continuous means just that....daily, all the time. Peak is a few seconds that the sub can handle before it "calls it quits".

RCA's.....I can count many times this question has been brought up between brand and pricing. I'm currently using KNU type for my mono amp and 4 ch amp. Now if you bought some 20k ones, not only will I feel sorry for you (waste of money imo) but the fact that you won't notice an audioauble difference between the two unless you got superhuman hearing. Spending a fair amount about 40-60 bucks or so should be good enough.

Install lookin' good so far. Is the sub enclosure made from 1" MDF? Just an fyi, ply birch is more $$ but also weighs less than mdf yet just as strong.

Good idea on the plxi covers for the amps. How do you plan to secure those plexi covers down? A little tip for ya: I had the same idea in my s10 blazer just running (1) 5 ch amp to power everything and drilled/countersunk even holes spaced apart from each other then used t-nuts and matching stainless allenhead bolts to secure. Then if I needed to I was able to get to the amp for whatever reason w/o using any screws....overtime the wood threads become weak and wont work any longer.

Here's a sub wiring guide for ya:

JL Audio » header » Support » Tutorials » Tutorial: Wiring Dual Voice Coil (DVC) Subwoofer Drivers

 
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