Single Cab F-150 Build

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DaytonLax14
10+ year member

CarAudio.com Elite
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Ohio
Decided to do a build log for my truck.

Vehicle: 2002 F-150 Single Cab

Equipment:

- Pioneer headunit (forget the model, pretty basic $120 unit)

- Kenwood KFC-6895 coaxials all the way around

- Sky High Big 3

- Sky High 0 gauge power and ground

- Crescendo BC2000d amp

- Sundown SA-12s wired down to 1 ohm

- Custom box built by CSCStang

- Deka group 65 under the hood and group 34 in the cab

I may or may not buy a 2 or 4 channel amp to amp the coaxials....we will see.

The Truck:

keysmb.jpg


 
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Thanks man, and thanks for the sub! I think powering the coaxials will be the way to go too. Problem is space. I gotta see how much room I have back there after I get the box and battery in.

 
Thanks man, and thanks for the sub! I think powering the coaxials will be the way to go too. Problem is space. I gotta see how much room I have back there after I get the box and battery in.
you think you could use the back wall for your amps? there's a lot of us who do that in silverados but im not sure what the back of the cab in fords is like

i fit 3 amps and an eq on my back wall there's a lot of room

 
you think you could use the back wall for your amps? there's a lot of us who do that in silverados but im not sure what the back of the cab in fords is like
i fit 3 amps and an eq on my back wall there's a lot of room
Well my box goes up against the back wall so idk...I really like that idea though. I'm putting my Crescendo under the driver's seat right now. Hmmmm I wonder if I could make it work on the back wall. How did you mount your amp to the wall?

 
Well my box goes up against the back wall so idk...I really like that idea though. I'm putting my Crescendo under the driver's seat right now. Hmmmm I wonder if I could make it work on the back wall. How did you mount your amp to the wall?
initially just straight to the metal with self taps but later on i did it right and glued a piece of wood to the back wall and then mounted my amps on that. it's great because you can use those handy screw zip ties to keep your wires neat without straight tapping holes into metal risking leaks and rust.

 
initially just straight to the metal with self taps but later on i did it right and glued a piece of wood to the back wall and then mounted my amps on that. it's great because you can use those handy screw zip ties to keep your wires neat without straight tapping holes into metal risking leaks and rust.
Looking at my back wall now....I think it will actually work.

 
KbrJEbW.jpg

this is the most recent pic i have, you can only see one of my amps but you get the point
Thanks that's a big help. If I used self tapping screws right into the body the only thing that makes me nervous is there being holes in the body if I ever decide to move it or take it out or anything. Any issues with the amp over heating being right up against the back of your box?

 
Thanks that's a big help. If I used self tapping screws right into the body the only thing that makes me nervous is there being holes in the body if I ever decide to move it or take it out or anything. Any issues with the amp over heating being right up against the back of your box?
you could just use some glue to fill the holes but id still advise you to use a piece of wood instead. those amps are actually behind my rear seat it was just off for the pic, so it does get hot back there and im sure your amps will too but as long as you arent clipping them to death and you make sure the box isnt directly touching the amps i wouldnt worry about it. that alpine will get almost too hot to touch sometimes lol but its a class ab

you're also in OH, i'm in FL lol huge difference in heat you should be good to go

 
Thanks man, and thanks for the sub! I think powering the coaxials will be the way to go too. Problem is space. I gotta see how much room I have back there after I get the box and battery in.
Anytime sir..There is always room under the front passengers seat also..Ive ran amps under each seat in a single cab Toyota in the past, even had room for an external Xover as well.Measured the clearance I had,removed seats and wired those jokers up..

 
Did the big 3, ran my amp wires, got the headunit installed, as well as the coxaials. Didn't take many pics during the process because it's nothing we haven't seen before.

2hdbonk.jpg


28b60pt.jpg


2nuhvuo.jpg


 
you could just use some glue to fill the holes but id still advise you to use a piece of wood instead. those amps are actually behind my rear seat it was just off for the pic, so it does get hot back there and im sure your amps will too but as long as you arent clipping them to death and you make sure the box isnt directly touching the amps i wouldnt worry about it. that alpine will get almost too hot to touch sometimes lol but its a class ab
you're also in OH, i'm in FL lol huge difference in heat you should be good to go
Gotcha. What kind of wood did you use? How thick is it? What kind of glue? And hey now, the Ohio summers get pretty hot and muggy:crap:. And the box will most likely be right up against the face of the amp so I'm not sure what to do.

I think I might just mount the sub amp under the seat and then if I decide to get a 2 or 4 channel amp in the future, I'll get both of the amps moved to the back wall.

 
i just used some 5/8 plywood and loctite plx3 or whatever its called from home depot. i painted it with some semi gloss blue spray paint so it didnt look out of place. be generous with the glue and be sure the wood is clamped securely to the wall for at least 12-24 hours after you apply the glue. buy some short self tap wood screws and clamps for your wire, and it'll make the install so much neater. if you ever get multiple amps just do what i did with the fused distro block and run one 1/0 ofc power wire it'll be plenty for what we use.

 
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DaytonLax14

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