Menu
Forum
General Car Audio
Subwoofers
Speakers
Amplifiers
Head Units
Car Audio Build Logs
Wiring, Electrical and Installation
Enclosure Design & Construction
Car Audio Classifieds
Home Audio
Off-topic Discussion
The Lounge
What's new
Search forums
Gallery
New media
New comments
Search media
Members
Registered members
Current visitors
Classifieds Member Feedback
SHOP
Shop Head Units
Shop Amplifiers
Shop Speakers
Shop Subwoofers
Shop eBay Car Audio
Log in / Register
Forum
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Log in / Join
What’s new
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
General Car Audio
Subwoofers
Speakers
Amplifiers
Head Units
Car Audio Build Logs
Wiring, Electrical and Installation
Enclosure Design & Construction
Car Audio Classifieds
Home Audio
Off-topic Discussion
The Lounge
What's new
Search forums
Menu
Reply to thread
Forum
Car Audio Builds
Car Audio Build Logs
First complete build... so far so good
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Message
<blockquote data-quote="Boomin_tahoe" data-source="post: 8461692" data-attributes="member: 562180"><p>You wanna look for continuous power and not peak power. Continuous means just that....daily, all the time. Peak is a few seconds that the sub can handle before it "calls it quits".</p><p></p><p>RCA's.....I can count many times this question has been brought up between brand and pricing. I'm currently using KNU type for my mono amp and 4 ch amp. Now if you bought some 20k ones, not only will I feel sorry for you (waste of money imo) but the fact that you won't notice an audioauble difference between the two unless you got superhuman hearing. Spending a fair amount about 40-60 bucks or so should be good enough.</p><p></p><p>Install lookin' good so far. Is the sub enclosure made from 1" MDF? Just an fyi, ply birch is more $$ but also weighs less than mdf yet just as strong.</p><p></p><p>Good idea on the plxi covers for the amps. How do you plan to secure those plexi covers down? A little tip for ya: I had the same idea in my s10 blazer just running (1) 5 ch amp to power everything and drilled/countersunk even holes spaced apart from each other then used t-nuts and matching stainless allenhead bolts to secure. Then if I needed to I was able to get to the amp for whatever reason w/o using any screws....overtime the wood threads become weak and wont work any longer.</p><p></p><p>Here's a sub wiring guide for ya:</p><p></p><p><a href="http://www.jlaudio.com/header/Support/Tutorials/Wiring+Dual+Voice+Coil+%28DVC%29+Subwoofer+Drivers/Tutorial%3A+Wiring+Dual+Voice+Coil+%28DVC%29+Subwoofer+Drivers/287544" target="_blank">JL Audio » header » Support » Tutorials » Tutorial: Wiring Dual Voice Coil (DVC) Subwoofer Drivers</a></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Boomin_tahoe, post: 8461692, member: 562180"] You wanna look for continuous power and not peak power. Continuous means just that....daily, all the time. Peak is a few seconds that the sub can handle before it "calls it quits". RCA's.....I can count many times this question has been brought up between brand and pricing. I'm currently using KNU type for my mono amp and 4 ch amp. Now if you bought some 20k ones, not only will I feel sorry for you (waste of money imo) but the fact that you won't notice an audioauble difference between the two unless you got superhuman hearing. Spending a fair amount about 40-60 bucks or so should be good enough. Install lookin' good so far. Is the sub enclosure made from 1" MDF? Just an fyi, ply birch is more $$ but also weighs less than mdf yet just as strong. Good idea on the plxi covers for the amps. How do you plan to secure those plexi covers down? A little tip for ya: I had the same idea in my s10 blazer just running (1) 5 ch amp to power everything and drilled/countersunk even holes spaced apart from each other then used t-nuts and matching stainless allenhead bolts to secure. Then if I needed to I was able to get to the amp for whatever reason w/o using any screws....overtime the wood threads become weak and wont work any longer. Here's a sub wiring guide for ya: [URL="http://www.jlaudio.com/header/Support/Tutorials/Wiring+Dual+Voice+Coil+%28DVC%29+Subwoofer+Drivers/Tutorial%3A+Wiring+Dual+Voice+Coil+%28DVC%29+Subwoofer+Drivers/287544"]JL Audio » header » Support » Tutorials » Tutorial: Wiring Dual Voice Coil (DVC) Subwoofer Drivers[/URL] [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forum
Car Audio Builds
Car Audio Build Logs
First complete build... so far so good
Top
Menu
What's new
Forum list